Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

2002 TJ 32RH won't shift into 3rd

YellowBeep

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Apr 20, 2025
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Location
Sanger, Texas
Hi everyone, newbie here. I recently took my 2002 TJ Sport with a 32rh through some deep mud. I suspected water entered the transmission so I drained the fluid and replaced the filter and put fresh fluid in. It drives completely normal... except it won't shift into 3rd. Reverse is fine, and it shifts from 1st - 2nd perfectly. I've adjusted the TV cable and even drove with it completely disconnected. Still no 3rd gear even all the way up to 3500rpm. What else can a shade tree mechanic do to remedy this?
 
Also the TV cable only really affects the shift points, and disconnecting it will make it shift much sooner.
 
When you drained it was it pink & milkshake looking?

And does manual-1 work ok?

Nope looked completely fine except for some small metal shavings and little beads I think may have been water in the bottom of the pan. I replaced all fluids about a year ago when I purchased the jeep so it was relatively fresh.

Like 1st gear selector? Yes it works in 1, 2, D, and R except it won't shift up to 3rd in D
 
Nope looked completely fine except for some small metal shavings and little beads I think may have been water in the bottom of the pan. I replaced all fluids about a year ago when I purchased the jeep so it was relatively fresh.

Like 1st gear selector? Yes it works in 1, 2, D, and R except it won't shift up to 3rd in D

Interesting. 3rd uses both clutch packs, but the other forward gears only use the rear clutch pack, so my initial thought was a problem with the forward pack. But Reverse also uses the forward pack, so it doesn't seem like it's a clutch problem. Reverse also requires more pressure than the forward gears so it doesn't feel like a pressure problem.

Without thinking too hard it's either a hydraulic circuit problem (valve body or servos) or maybe a problem with the governor. The FSM troubleshooting doesn't specifically mention your issue.. The fact that you had water in it is definitely worrisome. Just draining the fluid won't get all the water/milkshake out. There will be some left behind in the torque converter at least. It doesn't immediately feel like a friction problem, but water does break down the glue that holds the friction material to the backing plates/bands so you're already dancing with the devil.

How high have you got the RPMs in 2nd while you're trying to make it go into 3rd? Let's establish if it's just missing or if it needs more RPM (i wouldn't think twice about winding it up to 6k RPM to test).

Have you tried shifting through the gears manually, M1 -> M2 -> D ?

Do you have any trouble with a kickdown shift from 2 in to 1? Or with it downshifting to first when you come to a stop/slow down? I'm wondering if the kickdown servo is having trouble un-applying or something.


The FSM does detail a series of pressure tests you can do with the transmission in the vehicle, although Reverse & D3 tend to "troubleshoot together" due to their common usage of the forward drum.
 
Interesting. 3rd uses both clutch packs, but the other forward gears only use the rear clutch pack, so my initial thought was a problem with the forward pack. But Reverse also uses the forward pack, so it doesn't seem like it's a clutch problem. Reverse also requires more pressure than the forward gears so it doesn't feel like a pressure problem.

Without thinking too hard it's either a hydraulic circuit problem (valve body or servos) or maybe a problem with the governor. The FSM troubleshooting doesn't specifically mention your issue.. The fact that you had water in it is definitely worrisome. Just draining the fluid won't get all the water/milkshake out. There will be some left behind in the torque converter at least. It doesn't immediately feel like a friction problem, but water does break down the glue that holds the friction material to the backing plates/bands so you're already dancing with the devil.

How high have you got the RPMs in 2nd while you're trying to make it go into 3rd? Let's establish if it's just missing or if it needs more RPM (i wouldn't think twice about winding it up to 6k RPM to test).

Have you tried shifting through the gears manually, M1 -> M2 -> D ?

Do you have any trouble with a kickdown shift from 2 in to 1? Or with it downshifting to first when you come to a stop/slow down? I'm wondering if the kickdown servo is having trouble un-applying or something.


The FSM does detail a series of pressure tests you can do with the transmission in the vehicle, although Reverse & D3 tend to "troubleshoot together" due to their common usage of the forward drum.

3500rpm is the fastest i had the engine up to. It shifts from 1st to 2nd around 2k-2.5k. 3.5k in 2nd is about 70mph for me so I don't know if I can get it going any faster lol.

Yes it shifts perfectly from M1, M2, and D.
In short, it's almost as if it's stuck in M2 but I know it's not because I cycled through N -> D -> M2 multiple times while driving. You'd never know there's an issue if you kept it under 45mph because it shifts from 1 -> 2 and 2 -> 1 so smoothly and regularly.
 
Interesting. 3rd uses both clutch packs, but the other forward gears only use the rear clutch pack, so my initial thought was a problem with the forward pack. But Reverse also uses the forward pack, so it doesn't seem like it's a clutch problem. Reverse also requires more pressure than the forward gears so it doesn't feel like a pressure problem.

Without thinking too hard it's either a hydraulic circuit problem (valve body or servos) or maybe a problem with the governor. The FSM troubleshooting doesn't specifically mention your issue.. The fact that you had water in it is definitely worrisome. Just draining the fluid won't get all the water/milkshake out. There will be some left behind in the torque converter at least. It doesn't immediately feel like a friction problem, but water does break down the glue that holds the friction material to the backing plates/bands so you're already dancing with the devil.

How high have you got the RPMs in 2nd while you're trying to make it go into 3rd? Let's establish if it's just missing or if it needs more RPM (i wouldn't think twice about winding it up to 6k RPM to test).

Have you tried shifting through the gears manually, M1 -> M2 -> D ?

Do you have any trouble with a kickdown shift from 2 in to 1? Or with it downshifting to first when you come to a stop/slow down? I'm wondering if the kickdown servo is having trouble un-applying or something.


The FSM does detail a series of pressure tests you can do with the transmission in the vehicle, although Reverse & D3 tend to "troubleshoot together" due to their common usage of the forward drum.

I don't want to jinx myself, but I think giving it more RPMs fixed it. I got it up just shy of 5,000rpm when it finally shifted into 3rd. Ever since it has shifted at normal RPMs (2k-3k). I'll do another test drive tomorrow after it has 100% cooled just to make sure it wasn't just a fluke or only works hot.
 
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I don't want to jinx myself, but I think giving it more RPMs fixed it. I got it up just shy of 5,000rpm when it finally shifted into 3rd. Ever since it has shifted at normal RPMs (2k-3k). I'll do another test drive tomorrow after it has 100% cooled just to make sure it wasn't just a fluke or only works hot.

The good ol Italian tuneup; what can't it fix?
 
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Might have been a sticking valve in the valve body that you unstuck. If so, likely will be OK from now on.

I can’t rule out the governor, but I agree, it’s seems like the 2-3 shift valve is the culprit.

If it comes back, I think a hone in that bore and maybe replacing that valve might be in order. Pretty easy, honestly.
 
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Interesting timing- I have similar issue with my '98, 130k miles. 1-2, 2-1 is perfect. When cold, when first engaged, get a thunk, then 1-2, 2-1 is fine. 2-3 is a no go until things get warm and only then will 2-3 only go at a high RPM. 3-2 is fine in these cases. Also of note is that when it does go from 2-3 there is noticeable hesitation. T fluid is good, read somewhere that changing the t filter is something to do.
 
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Interesting timing- I have similar issue with my '98, 130k miles. 1-2, 2-1 is perfect. When cold, when first engaged, get a thunk, then 1-2, 2-1 is fine. 2-3 is a no go until things get warm and only then will 2-3 only go at a high RPM. 3-2 is fine in these cases. Also of note is that when it does go from 2-3 there is noticeable hesitation. T fluid is good, read somewhere that changing the t filter is something to do.

Could be the 2-3 shift valve. The clunk before 1-2 works well could be the kickdown servo sticking or something. You’re a pretty good candidate for the pressure test process laid out in the FSM.
 
I will research that. I also forgot to mention that the kickdown plastic connector deteriorated and broke off a few months back. I found a 3d printed version. I just slapped it back on. I read some instructions on how to adjust the kickdown and tried it yesterday. I see some improvement but too early to tell.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts