2000 Sahara Restoration Recommendations

ChappyJeep · Aug 3, 2025

Started tearing into my new to me Wrangler and am basically looking for some “while you’re in there” tips. Anything I should do while tub is off (seals, cables, etc)

Secondly, I also want to replace the suspension with new non rusty parts. What would you do? I don’t want to lift it really but want to put bigger wheels and tires, 32s if possible. Springs, arms, ends. The whole lot. Maybe it makes sense to do a small lift?

Thirdly, I noticed oil from my transfer case and from the bell housing it appears. RMS?

Besides those things here are other parts I will be replacing:
- Body Mounts
- Brake lines
- Muffler (atleast)

Once I dig into the knuckles and brakes I no doubt will be replacing brake backing shields and all the other rotted parts.

Thanks for any tips and enjoy the photos. Blasted the frame and coated it with SPI epoxy primer. The tub is very clean except for the body mount channels which I hopefully can weld in new ones. Rear diff spring buckets seem pretty bad hopefully can weld new ones on?

Gilaguy23 · Aug 4, 2025

New frame. looks nice. Far as parts go, and no offence to the aftermarket, well sorta really, but 95% of the replacement stuff is from china and IMO junk. Id blast and powder coat OEM parts when possible. Same for electrics, if It works dont fix it. We just moved to KY and been considering replacing my 99 I left behind out west. Pretty sad how many trashed TJ's there is for dirt cheap cause the frames are wasted. I should scoop them up and start a TJ recycler but Im to lazy.

glowell222 · Aug 4, 2025

While you're in there, replace all of your rubber bits:

fuel lines, brake hard and soft lines; ground connections and wires; parking brake apparatus; fuel tank skid and skid bolts; fuel tank mounting bolts; upper and lower control arm bushings; spring isolators; vacuum lines and hoses; shocks; damaged vent hoses for the diffs/transfer/transmission; upgrade from exhaust manifold to a stainless header (one that has expansion/flex joints);

copper or stainless nuts and washers for the exhaust; clean out the cowl area; replace the valve cover gasket; power steering hoses; check inside your torque boxes under the driver/passenger doors for rust-you likely have some issues; new fuel tank ground and fuel filler ground; new anti-roll end links F&R; replace the four bumper milk jugs and repaint F&R bumpers; lubricate the door locking and window rolling mechanisms; replace the driver/passenger plastic wind seals where the windshield frame meets the door upper;

make sure that your axles are square to the frame and square to each other prior to torquing. Also: drill a 5/8" drain hole on the bottom of the frame about 4" behind the front control arm mounts and about 4" ahead of the rear control arm mounts. Of course smooth/treat/paint the bare metal of the new holes.

Oil at the bell housing may be RMS, may also be valve cover gasket, may also be due to the use of synthetic oil drying out the gasket materials. SAE oil may resolve this over time (took me about 3 oil changes).

For 32s, you can get away with a 1.25" body lift. A tummy tuck/SYE might serve you better than a lift.

ChappyJeep · Aug 4, 2025

Gilaguy23 said:
New frame. looks nice. Far as parts go, and no offence to the aftermarket, well sorta really, but 95% of the replacement stuff is from china and IMO junk. Id blast and powder coat OEM parts when possible. Same for electrics, if It works dont fix it. We just moved to KY and been considering replacing my 99 I left behind out west. Pretty sad how many trashed TJ's there is for dirt cheap cause the frames are wasted. I should scoop them up and start a TJ recycler but Im to lazy.

Yeah, I assumed most of the aftermarket stuff would be junk, especially the cheap stuff. Nothing survives where I live unless it’s undercoated. There is a TJ at a house I work at with just 7,000 miles, but to get to the house you have to drive a couple hundred feet through deep sand. The frame is nearly as bad as this one, tub is much worse. Really too bad it’s a 4.0 manual Sahara.

ChappyJeep · Aug 4, 2025

glowell222 said:
While you're in there, replace all of your rubber bits:

fuel lines, brake hard and soft lines; ground connections and wires; parking brake apparatus; fuel tank skid and skid bolts; fuel tank mounting bolts; upper and lower control arm bushings; spring isolators; vacuum lines and hoses; shocks; damaged vent hoses for the diffs/transfer/transmission; upgrade from exhaust manifold to a stainless header (one that has expansion/flex joints);

copper or stainless nuts and washers for the exhaust; clean out the cowl area; replace the valve cover gasket; power steering hoses; check inside your torque boxes under the driver/passenger doors for rust-you likely have some issues; new fuel tank ground and fuel filler ground; new anti-roll end links F&R; replace the four bumper milk jugs and repaint F&R bumpers; lubricate the door locking and window rolling mechanisms; replace the driver/passenger plastic wind seals where the windshield frame meets the door upper;

make sure that your axles are square to the frame and square to each other prior to torquing. Also: drill a 5/8" drain hole on the bottom of the frame about 4" behind the front control arm mounts and about 4" ahead of the rear control arm mounts. Of course smooth/treat/paint the bare metal of the new holes.

Oil at the bell housing may be RMS, may also be valve cover gasket, may also be due to the use of synthetic oil drying out the gasket materials. SAE oil may resolve this over time (took me about 3 oil changes).

For 32s, you can get away with a 1.25" body lift. A tummy tuck/SYE might serve you better than a lift.

This is great info. Thanks a ton.

ChappyJeep · Aug 8, 2025

glowell222 said:
While you're in there, replace all of your rubber bits:

fuel lines, brake hard and soft lines; ground connections and wires; parking brake apparatus; fuel tank skid and skid bolts; fuel tank mounting bolts; upper and lower control arm bushings; spring isolators; vacuum lines and hoses; shocks; damaged vent hoses for the diffs/transfer/transmission; upgrade from exhaust manifold to a stainless header (one that has expansion/flex joints);

copper or stainless nuts and washers for the exhaust; clean out the cowl area; replace the valve cover gasket; power steering hoses; check inside your torque boxes under the driver/passenger doors for rust-you likely have some issues; new fuel tank ground and fuel filler ground; new anti-roll end links F&R; replace the four bumper milk jugs and repaint F&R bumpers; lubricate the door locking and window rolling mechanisms; replace the driver/passenger plastic wind seals where the windshield frame meets the door upper;

make sure that your axles are square to the frame and square to each other prior to torquing. Also: drill a 5/8" drain hole on the bottom of the frame about 4" behind the front control arm mounts and about 4" ahead of the rear control arm mounts. Of course smooth/treat/paint the bare metal of the new holes.

Oil at the bell housing may be RMS, may also be valve cover gasket, may also be due to the use of synthetic oil drying out the gasket materials. SAE oil may resolve this over time (took me about 3 oil changes).

For 32s, you can get away with a 1.25" body lift. A tummy tuck/SYE might serve you better than a lift.

Just ordered a bunch of parts but I had trouble finding the steering shaft bearing. This inside part might be fine but the bracket/flange is gone. eBay had some, maybe there is a better source? I’ll keep looking.

And secondly, the ‘torque boxes’ repair will need to be done. eBay has full replacement panels, and safe T cap has weld-over caps. $100 vs $280 I believe. I’m leaning towards full replacement, welding it in and seam sealing. Not sure if there is a most common way to repair it?

Thanks for any insight I’ll keep doing research.

OldButStillJeeping · Aug 8, 2025

Nice project!!!

Keep us posted.

Restore or Restore-Mod? Museum Jeep or Classic-ish with upgrades? I would go tummy tuck, SYE, 4" lift with Currie arms, 4.88s, 35 in tires, 44 HP in front, with elect lockers. Lol

I wish I had the time...

glowell222 · Aug 11, 2025

ChappyJeep said:
Just ordered a bunch of parts but I had trouble finding the steering shaft bearing. This inside part might be fine but the bracket/flange is gone. eBay had some, maybe there is a better source? I’ll keep looking.View attachment 635539

And secondly, the ‘torque boxes’ repair will need to be done. eBay has full replacement panels, and safe T cap has weld-over caps. $100 vs $280 I believe. I’m leaning towards full replacement, welding it in and seam sealing. Not sure if there is a most common way to repair it?

Thanks for any insight I’ll keep doing research.

I used a company called rustrepairpatch.com for my torque boxes, but they are no longer in business. I would definitely do the full replacement and not do a cap-best to find and kill all the rust while you have the time. I will check around locally regarding the shaft bearing/flange.

glowell222 · Aug 11, 2025

This might be exactly what you need. If the shaft doesn't work, keep the bearing and sleeve--but I bet the shaft will work. You will still need the bracket, or you can make one with your metalworking capabilities. https://www.amazon.com/Flynsu-52078...nt-1997-1999/dp/B0BYZ2YXC6?tag=wranglerorg-20.

The brackets below are actually designed for a 1" body lift, if you decide to go that route. They will probably work just fine even without the lift.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/redrock-4x4-jeep-wrangler-steering-shaft-riser-bracket-j165217.html

https://www.amazon.com/Hooke-Road-Wrangler-Steering-Compatible/dp/B08SJQVNN9?tag=wranglerorg-20

glowell222 · Aug 11, 2025

Here you go: https://partsbreakers.com/products/...1hWlvzOkIpHjSocNml3pRhOHuYPjVtmC8NAG8BPnUYbwz

ChappyJeep · Sep 3, 2025

Wrapped this up a week ago or so, but back up at school now and, well, I can't exactly work on it from here. Made pretty good time on it, tub came off on the second and was back on by the 23rd. Prepping and painting the frame was a long process though, which I started in July. Thought some might enjoy photos, and I have some more if interested.

I ought not list everything, but I replaced a ton of stuff. Most if not all suspension besides the front sway bar. All u joints too. That was no fun. Welded new rear spring buckets on the diff, and spliced in new torque box section on drivers side.

Picked up some new to me JK wheels. Atleast I think they are JK. Need adapters, and they are 32s so I'll probably get some 2" springs to lift. I think the rancho shocks should be apt for them, as far as I've read. $275 for a set of 5 with date code 3920 tires. Not bad IMO. Was looking at pro comps and ko2s for 1000+, so this will hold me over.

Still some loose ends that I didn't have time for such as torquing up all the suspension. Need muffler, steering shaft, radiator (leaking somehow), and to bleed the brakes. I think I am still in the money considering the Jeep was pretty much free, and only has 77k.

Thanks again @glowell222 for all the advice.