I found the same thing, fortunately mine got broken up a bit over the last season!
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
I went ahead and ordered a wired winch control for my superwinch. I have in cab controls, but I want the wired backup. Better safe than sorry.
Some upcoming things.
Friday I have a parking brake cable for the driver's side rear Dana 44 arriving. I've been surviving on 1 cable for 6-8 months and need to get that knocked out.
I want to get the BedRug installed. At the same time I want to put down a small amount of sound deadening in the tub and I've got seat heaters I want to install. I may want to run some 8 gauge wire to hardwire a Viair 400P. I'm not 100% sure, but I'm thinking about mounting it in the rear of the rig rather than under the hood. If anyone has any opinions one way or the other, I'd be glad to hear. I realize a limitation on the portability, but I don't like all the alligator clips and wires dragging everywhere when I air up, so I thought I might just mount it in the rear, open the tailgate, and have 25ft of cord to reach tires. I've got a Viair 88P for other tires on other vehicles, so it wouldn't be a big deal. Obviously I have opted against a C02 tank, mainly because of the need to get it re-filled and the likelihood that they are just going to swap tanks.
Oh, and exhaust, I need to go down to the muffler shop and see what solution we can come up with. I don't like it dumping on my axle. There's a Pro-Flo that @SvtLdr turned me on to that looks like it would shorten it about 6". I may go that route, but I'd need to know how to weld and I've been delayed in getting all that set up so I could learn.
Some upcoming things.
Friday I have a parking brake cable for the driver's side rear Dana 44 arriving. I've been surviving on 1 cable for 6-8 months and need to get that knocked out.
I want to get the BedRug installed. At the same time I want to put down a small amount of sound deadening in the tub and I've got seat heaters I want to install. I may want to run some 8 gauge wire to hardwire a Viair 400P. I'm not 100% sure, but I'm thinking about mounting it in the rear of the rig rather than under the hood. If anyone has any opinions one way or the other, I'd be glad to hear. I realize a limitation on the portability, but I don't like all the alligator clips and wires dragging everywhere when I air up, so I thought I might just mount it in the rear, open the tailgate, and have 25ft of cord to reach tires. I've got a Viair 88P for other tires on other vehicles, so it wouldn't be a big deal. Obviously I have opted against a C02 tank, mainly because of the need to get it re-filled and the likelihood that they are just going to swap tanks.
Oh, and exhaust, I need to go down to the muffler shop and see what solution we can come up with. I don't like it dumping on my axle. There's a Pro-Flo that @SvtLdr turned me on to that looks like it would shorten it about 6". I may go that route, but I'd need to know how to weld and I've been delayed in getting all that set up so I could learn.
Oh, and exhaust, I need to go down to the muffler shop and see what solution we can come up with. I don't like it dumping on my axle. There's a Pro-Flo that @SvtLdr turned me on to that looks like it would shorten it about 6". I may go that route, but I'd need to know how to weld and I've been delayed in getting all that set up so I could learn.
I'd say just get after the welding, just don't do it on any components that require structural integrity. Exhaust is a good one, though turn the power way down since it's easy to burn through.
I was thinking I might wait on the exhaust too. This just confirms my thinking. I hope I don't have any more problems in there. It gets so hot in the axle and the condensation just causes rust. I'm going to eventually have to figure out how to clean that whole tube out, sand the upper part of the tube where it's rusting, and do some kind of preventative.
I'm thinking I can stuff part of a rag down in the tube where the seal is to block my work from contaminating the diff, then get to work in there with some kind of abrasive pad, maybe on the end of a drill so it rotates and gets all the rust cleaned up really well. Then pull out the rag to clean out the tube. I would think the gear oil would be a good enough preventative, but that doesn't seem to be the case, so I need to look into it more .
Oh, and exhaust, I need to go down to the muffler shop and see what solution we can come up with. I don't like it dumping on my axle. There's a Pro-Flo that @SvtLdr turned me on to that looks like it would shorten it about 6". I may go that route, but I'd need to know how to weld and I've been delayed in getting all that set up so I could learn.
I've installed a few different exhaust systems. The one I like best is the Walker Quiet-Flow system. With the Savvy UA you'll have to remove the rear hangar on the tailpipe and relocate it. You'll also need cut a little off the tailpipe to bring it inside the rear bumper. The hanger relocation is good welding practice. It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional!
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8469748&cc=1430906&pt=10727&jsn=1410&jsn=1410
Ideally I would pull the carrier so you can cannon swab the tube. Cut a slot in some wood dowel so you can slip some emery tape in it and slap on your drill and sand away. Clean it with brake clean and gear oil will take care of the rest.
Hey, that’s a pretty good idea. You always have good ideas. What are you, some kind of inventor?!
No I just fix stuff and call engineers bad names.
No, I can’t get to it. The only position I can see it is if it’s pointing straight up allowing some space between the DC joints. Looks like I’ll have to unbolt it from the TCase yoke every time for service. 5/16 or 8mm stubby is pretty quick, but that is annoying.
I replaced the passenger side parking brake cable about 6 months ago due to exhaust damage. The problem was the original cable on the drivers side was stretched to the point I couldn’t run them together. I adjusted it to use just one side, but it was time to resolve that. The new drivers side is Raybestos. It is 5” shorter than the original, but sufficient and works. It shouldn’t be a problem under articulation. Not understanding why it’s shorter. Lesson is to replace both at the same time if you have to do this job. A tip to remove the flanged ends is to tighten a wire clamp down. Pull hard as you loosen it and it will pop right out.
I showed my kids an episode of MacGyver about a month ago. Their
were glued to the screen. 
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So, other than the hanger relocation and shortening the pipe, you think the configuration will route correctly and bolt right up?
It wasn't quite that easy for me. I ended up using band clamps, which allowed for the exhaust to be adjusted and moved as needed. Without them, I would have had to cut and weld more pipe. I'll have to verify, but believe I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015KUF5Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AX9UD4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
It is da debil’! I’m starting to hate it! I’ve been to two exhaust shops, pushed it in when I backed into a rock in the trail, dented my passenger rear shock, had it cut off, and now it’s blowing right on the axle and Rusting the inside of the axle tube.
The other debil’ has been the CB, so I am eliminating all that wiring. I’ve spent countless hours and dollars on this stuff and it’s just been the bane. GMRS is good enough for me.
I have this little Radioddity guy.
Radioddity GM-30 GMRS Radio, Handheld 5W Long Range Two Way Radio for Adults, GMRS Repeater Capable, with NOAA Scanning & Receiving, Display SYNC, for https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SLR7W7F/?tag=wranglerorg-20
It works well for the trail! You helped me set mine up in Moab bc I haven’t invested any time in this area and you are a genius here. I got the boys one too. It’s really nice for us.
