05 Flame Red TJ Build

[JMT]

I would like to try those gear wrench make nice stuff. I prefer fine tooth on 1/4” and 3/8” but coarse tooth on my 1/2” drive ratchets for strength.

I can’t recall the EXACT torque the 3/8” Gear Wrench held up to, but it was in the 280ft/lb range. That was impressive, but most of them were between 250-300ft/lbs before failing at some location. That’s well beyond anything I’ll do. I have breaker bars and torque wrenches for those ranges.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I can’t recall the EXACT torque the 3/8” Gear Wrench held up to, but it was in the 280ft/lb range. That was impressive, but most of them were between 250-300ft/lbs before failing at some location. That’s well beyond anything I’ll do. I have breaker bars and torque wrenches for those ranges.

Damn dude - if you can put 300 foot pounds onto a 12” ratchet, I’m certainly not f-ing with you..

 

[NskLJ]

I can’t recall the EXACT torque the 3/8” Gear Wrench held up to, but it was in the 280ft/lb range. That was impressive, but most of them were between 250-300ft/lbs before failing at some location. That’s well beyond anything I’ll do. I have breaker bars and torque wrenches for those ranges.

Knuckles don’t like when ratchets fail.

 

[JMT]

Damn dude - if you can put 300 foot pounds onto a 12” ratchet, I’m certainly not f-ing with you..

. No sh--. I was actually shocked how much those 3/8" ratchets were withstanding. I get nervous when I pull hard on a ratchet. My joints don't like it either. I don't see how anyone could get that much pull on a 12" ratchet . What they did was put a pipe on the end and pull. I went back and looked and, indeed, they were pulling them up to the 250-300ft/lb range before they failed. That's crazy.

 

[NskLJ]

. No sh--. I was actually shocked how much those 3/8" ratchets were withstanding. I get nervous when I pull hard on a ratchet. My joints don't like it either. I don't see how anyone could get that much pull on a 12" ratchet . What they did was put a pipe on the end and pull. I went back and looked and, indeed, they were pulling them up to the 250-300ft/lb range before they failed. That's crazy.

I’m amazed what I can get on some of my 1/4” ratchets

 

[JMT]

I forgot to post this pic last week. I didn’t know the Rubicon trail was at Lookout Pass ski resort on the ID/MT border. Now I can say I’ve done the Rubicon! Great day. Love ya @NashvilleTJ!

 

[JMT]

I’ve been struggling for a year or more about where to go next with my rig. I do this to have a project, which is required for me or I’ll go crazy, so just bc I do something doesn’t mean I have to do it to meet trail demands (yet). I keep cycling through the following ideas. My problem is my rig drives great, the options below are spendy, and I feel like if I do 1 I need to do 2, 3, 4… and that will end up being over $10k.

1. Beadlocks. I had DC-2's that held a bead down to 8-9psi. I never lost a bead. Then I was researching beadlocks (single, double, and coyotes), but could never decide, so I just went with some cheap Mamba Moab look-a-likes to satisfy the desire for a change. Now I've lost a bead twice on very non-technical terrain. I hate to see what would happen if I was on technical terrain. So, I'm back to thinking about beadlocks and I have a set of Raceline's picked out.
2. Armor. Specifically the rear corner armor. This is practical because it's probably just a matter of time before I damage the tub. For now I steer clear and play it safe. I prefer Savvy, but it hasn't been in stock for a long time.
3. GR 4" Fenders. The MCE's were just to tide me over till I decided on something else. I like these, but they are aesthetic only mod, so I’m not itching to do it. They do look good though.
4. Midarm. Please. Like I need it.
5. PSC Steering. I am running 35's. I feel the need for better steering "sometimes," though not often, and obviously I can always get out or through the situation without issue. Clearly it would make steering easier when I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.
6. Outboard. Gets me into spendy shocks.

I just don'tknow where to go. Because I’m unsettled, what I’ve done in discussing with @Blackjack is move away from all that and just look at some cheap, but valuable mods I really need to get to that will keep me busy (for awhile).

1. Rear frame tuck. The butt crack does bother me @bobthetj03! This is more aesthetics, but it has some value and there are things there for me to learn.
2. Raised body mounts. This one is practical. My mounts, particularly the ones in the middle have folded ears after wheelin trips. I would ideally do this the same time I did the rear frame tuck.
3. Tie rod flip. This one is also practical. I can gain 2” clearance on the drivers side. I’m not sure it will work with my backspacing.

At any rate, I’m open to suggestions on direction, but for now I’m pretty happy setting goals to knock out 1, 2 and 3 on the short list.

 

[kiwi]

I’ve been struggling for a year or more about where to go next with my rig. I do this to have a project, which is required for me or I’ll go crazy, so just bc I do something doesn’t mean I have to do it to meet trail demands (yet). I keep cycling through the following ideas. My problem is my rig drives great, the options below are spendy, and I feel like if I do 1 I need to do 2, 3, 4… and that will end up being over $10k.

1. Beadlocks. I had DC-2's that held a bead down to 8-9psi. I never lost a bead. Then I was researching beadlocks (single, double, and coyotes), but could never decide, so I just went with some cheap Mamba Moab look-a-likes to satisfy the desire for a change. Now I've lost a bead twice on very non-technical terrain. I hate to see what would happen if I was on technical terrain. So, I'm back to thinking about beadlocks and I have a set of Raceline's picked out.
2. Armor. Specifically the rear corner armor. This is practical because it's probably just a matter of time before I damage the tub. For now I steer clear and play it safe. I prefer Savvy, but it hasn't been in stock for a long time.
3. GR 4" Fenders. The MCE's were just to tide me over till I decided on something else. I like these, but they are aesthetic only mod, so I’m not itching to do it. They do look good though.
4. Midarm. Please. Like I need it.
5. PSC Steering. I am running 35's. I feel the need for better steering "sometimes," though not often, and obviously I can always get out or through the situation without issue. Clearly it would make steering easier when I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.
6. Outboard. Gets me into spendy shocks.

I just don'tknow where to go. Because I’m unsettled, what I’ve done in discussing with @Blackjack is move away from all that and just look at some cheap, but valuable mods I really need to get to that will keep me busy (for awhile).

1. Rear frame tuck. The butt crack does bother me @bobthetj03! This is more aesthetics, but it has some value and there are things there for me to learn.
2. Raised body mounts. This one is practical. My mounts, particularly the ones in the middle have folded ears after wheelin trips. I would ideally do this the same time I did the rear frame tuck.
3. Tie rod flip. This one is also practical. I can gain 2” clearance on the drivers side. I’m not sure it will work with my backspacing.

At any rate, I’m open to suggestions on direction, but for now I’m pretty happy setting goals to knock out 1, 2 and 3 on the short list.

View attachment 391136

Just curious, what makes you want a midarm? Are the short arms limiting your current wheeling?

 

[Mike_H]

I’ve been struggling for a year or more about where to go next with my rig. I do this to have a project, which is required for me or I’ll go crazy, so just bc I do something doesn’t mean I have to do it to meet trail demands (yet). I keep cycling through the following ideas. My problem is my rig drives great, the options below are spendy, and I feel like if I do 1 I need to do 2, 3, 4… and that will end up being over $10k.

1. Beadlocks. I had DC-2's that held a bead down to 8-9psi. I never lost a bead. Then I was researching beadlocks (single, double, and coyotes), but could never decide, so I just went with some cheap Mamba Moab look-a-likes to satisfy the desire for a change. Now I've lost a bead twice on very non-technical terrain. I hate to see what would happen if I was on technical terrain. So, I'm back to thinking about beadlocks and I have a set of Raceline's picked out.
2. Armor. Specifically the rear corner armor. This is practical because it's probably just a matter of time before I damage the tub. For now I steer clear and play it safe. I prefer Savvy, but it hasn't been in stock for a long time.
3. GR 4" Fenders. The MCE's were just to tide me over till I decided on something else. I like these, but they are aesthetic only mod, so I’m not itching to do it. They do look good though.
4. Midarm. Please. Like I need it.
5. PSC Steering. I am running 35's. I feel the need for better steering "sometimes," though not often, and obviously I can always get out or through the situation without issue. Clearly it would make steering easier when I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.
6. Outboard. Gets me into spendy shocks.

I just don'tknow where to go. Because I’m unsettled, what I’ve done in discussing with @Blackjack is move away from all that and just look at some cheap, but valuable mods I really need to get to that will keep me busy (for awhile).

1. Rear frame tuck. The butt crack does bother me @bobthetj03! This is more aesthetics, but it has some value and there are things there for me to learn.
2. Raised body mounts. This one is practical. My mounts, particularly the ones in the middle have folded ears after wheelin trips. I would ideally do this the same time I did the rear frame tuck.
3. Tie rod flip. This one is also practical. I can gain 2” clearance on the drivers side. I’m not sure it will work with my backspacing.

At any rate, I’m open to suggestions on direction, but for now I’m pretty happy setting goals to knock out 1, 2 and 3 on the short list.

View attachment 391136

I think the order in which I would proceed..

Do the frame tuck and get a plate style bumper (if you haven't already). That mod made the rear of my jeep VERY protected from drops and ledges. Its a very good mod. Its also very inexpensive. Its not 100% foolproof, but the number of times I hit dropping off a ledge has gone down dramatically.

Tie Rod flip. Also, not very expensive...and very worthwhile. It does make front end packaging more difficult. If you don't have double adjustable arms, you will want them.

Raised body mounts...Where you are now, they probably are not as necessary as they were in Texas, but its a good mod, if you have to make mods for mods sake (I feel you here)

Start saving for shocks and an outboard.

You may want to bump up the beadlocks based on how much of a pain loosing a bead is. Its only happened to me once, and I deserved it.

 

[JMT]

I think the order in which I would proceed..

Do the frame tuck and get a plate style bumper (if you haven't already). That mod made the rear of my jeep VERY protected from drops and ledges. Its a very good mod. Its also very inexpensive. Its not 100% foolproof, but the number of times I hit dropping off a ledge has gone down dramatically.

Tie Rod flip. Also, not very expensive...and very worthwhile. It does make front end packaging more difficult. If you don't have double adjustable arms, you will want them.

Raised body mounts...Where you are now, they probably are not as necessary as they were in Texas, but its a good mod, if you have to make mods for mods sake (I feel you here)

Start saving for shocks and an outboard.

You may want to bump up the beadlocks based on how much of a pain loosing a bead is. Its only happened to me once, and I deserved it.

I have not done the crossmember rear bumper. The main reason is the need for a hitch for carrying a cargo rack, 4-bike rack, and towing a trailer. I have seen this problem ameliorated, and love the clearance.

I still fold the ears of the center body mount over here in the less difficult terrain.

I’m going to look closely at the front tie rod flip today. I already have all the pieces I need from Blaine and TMR. I do have DA CA’s.

It would be timely to do the outboard along with the rear frame tuck, but won’t happen that way due to the $$$ shock purchase.

The beadlocks are a definite. Losing a bead for no apparent reason is not fun. I can wait till I’m closer to needing tires. I’ll be going to 17’s.

Just curious, what makes you want a midarm? Are the short arms limiting your current wheeling?

Having a project.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Tons and fodeez.

(What else am I going to say???…)


But seriously, I think you are overthinking it, JMT. Everyy one of these mods would have benefit, and if you keep the rig long enough you will do them all. Pick one that interests you the most at the time - for whatever reason - and go do it. Then, move on to the next.

I’ve been wrenching on my rig constantly for 18 years using this philosophy - and I have never run out of interesting and challenging projects to do. They do tend to get bigger as you go - but your skills also improve to support the big stuff.

The only thing that sticks out on your list as solving an immediate problem is the bead locks. Everything else is an enhancement. So do that first. I am a big fan of the Racelines.

Trust me, you will be just as happy picking the next project from your list by throwing a dart. As you said, it’s sometimes more about the journey than the destination.

Now get off your ass and do something!

 

[JMT]

Tons and fodeez.

(What else am I going to say???…)


But seriously, I think you are overthinking it, JMT. Everyy one of these mods would have benefit, and if you keep the rig long enough you will do them all. Pick one that interests you the most at the time - for whatever reason - and go do it. Then, move on to the next.

I’ve been wrenching on my rig constantly for 18 years using this philosophy - and I have never run out of interesting and challenging projects to do. They do tend to get bigger as you go - but your skills also improve to support the big stuff.

The only thing that sticks out on your list as solving an immediate problem is the bead locks. Everything else is an enhancement. So do that first. I am a big fan of the Racelines.

Trust me, you will be just as happy picking the next project from your list by throwing a dart. As you said, it’s sometimes more about the journey than the destination.

Now get off your ass and do something!

All that and “tons and fodeez” was the best advice you gave me. (getting off ass now).

In the back of my head I know you’re right.

 

[Wildman]

You have the shocks already they just need to be rebuilt? Or are you thinking of going with something different?

 

[bobthetj03]

I like @Mike_H 's list. Maybe add the ram assist for the steering at the same time you do the tie rod flip.

 

[JMT]

A couple months ago the Mister Wash that I drive through to clean the rig during the snow/chemical season ripped my hardtop vent off the passenger side. I had actually had a situation a few years ago when I was in a ditch and the rig leaned into the bank damaging that area and some of the glass, so I think it was already damaged some. At any rate, the Mister Wash guy said he’d give me three free months washes in exchange for the part. It’s a good deal since the part is $90 and the washes are. About the same.

If you ever have to do this, DO NOT just walk outside and push the vent in. While that should work, it probably wont, and then you’ll have a real issue on your hand.

The vent is three parts. An inner plastic part with wings that catch behind the edges of the hardtop, a rubber weather flap, and an outer trim piece. That outer trim piece HAS to stay attached to the inner part for it to stay on your hardtop. The problem is they are not attached very well, and if you insert it and can’t get the wings to catch on one side, then you have to get it out, and that means you are more than likely going to break the attached pieces apart. Then you are in a mess. Ask me how I know.

I had to buy a plastic welder to fix my brand new $90 part. Don’t try JB Weld for plastics. It won’t work. Ask me how I know. After you plastic weld all 20 little spots, get your heat gun out and briefly pull out on the wings under the heat and hold them out till the harden. Once you do that you should be good to go.

If you didn’t make the mistake from the get go, just do this and save yourself a lot of screwing around.

1. Pull the wings out and heat them with a heat gun briefly to pull them out farther. Once you’ve done that they will catch when you install it.

Here’s what the wings look like out of the box. They are not open enough to grab the edge of the hardtop on both sides.

Here’s what they look like after some heat gun treatment.

Here’s the plastic weld job. There’s a lot of little joints you have to weld.

Finally fixed. It clipped right in after all that messing around.

 

[JMT]

My sub box I built last summer needed a little attention. While it sounded pretty awesome it was not sealed completely around the top edge. This was bc I didn’t glue this side like I did the others. I could feel air coming out in places. I didn’t want to glue it though, because if I have to get in there it’s a lot easier to do if you can remove that whole panel.

I went to Home Depot and found some rubber sponge window seal. It was like $5 for 10 feet. It’s adhesive on one side, so I put that side down. Now it’s sealed perfectly and done correctly.

 

[Irun]

4. Bought a tool creeper. Yes !
View attachment 389780

5. Got the right starter brush plate and installed it.

View attachment 389781

View attachment 389783

View attachment 389784

View attachment 389785

View attachment 389786

View attachment 389787

View attachment 389788

View attachment 389789

View attachment 389790

View attachment 389791

View attachment 389792

View attachment 389793

View attachment 389794

View attachment 389795

Glad you got that sorted out!

 

[Irun]

I’ve been struggling for a year or more about where to go next with my rig. I do this to have a project, which is required for me or I’ll go crazy, so just bc I do something doesn’t mean I have to do it to meet trail demands (yet). I keep cycling through the following ideas. My problem is my rig drives great, the options below are spendy, and I feel like if I do 1 I need to do 2, 3, 4… and that will end up being over $10k.

1. Beadlocks. I had DC-2's that held a bead down to 8-9psi. I never lost a bead. Then I was researching beadlocks (single, double, and coyotes), but could never decide, so I just went with some cheap Mamba Moab look-a-likes to satisfy the desire for a change. Now I've lost a bead twice on very non-technical terrain. I hate to see what would happen if I was on technical terrain. So, I'm back to thinking about beadlocks and I have a set of Raceline's picked out.
2. Armor. Specifically the rear corner armor. This is practical because it's probably just a matter of time before I damage the tub. For now I steer clear and play it safe. I prefer Savvy, but it hasn't been in stock for a long time.
3. GR 4" Fenders. The MCE's were just to tide me over till I decided on something else. I like these, but they are aesthetic only mod, so I’m not itching to do it. They do look good though.
4. Midarm. Please. Like I need it.
5. PSC Steering. I am running 35's. I feel the need for better steering "sometimes," though not often, and obviously I can always get out or through the situation without issue. Clearly it would make steering easier when I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.
6. Outboard. Gets me into spendy shocks.

I just don'tknow where to go. Because I’m unsettled, what I’ve done in discussing with @Blackjack is move away from all that and just look at some cheap, but valuable mods I really need to get to that will keep me busy (for awhile).

1. Rear frame tuck. The butt crack does bother me @bobthetj03! This is more aesthetics, but it has some value and there are things there for me to learn.
2. Raised body mounts. This one is practical. My mounts, particularly the ones in the middle have folded ears after wheelin trips. I would ideally do this the same time I did the rear frame tuck.
3. Tie rod flip. This one is also practical. I can gain 2” clearance on the drivers side. I’m not sure it will work with my backspacing.

At any rate, I’m open to suggestions on direction, but for now I’m pretty happy setting goals to knock out 1, 2 and 3 on the short list.

View attachment 391136

What is truly limiting your wheeling?

 

[Alex01]

My 2 cents... The steering was a game changer. Not only is it better on the road it's amazing on the trail.

 

[Irun]

My 2 cents... The steering was a game changer. Not only is it better on the road it's amazing on the trail.

This is indeed a worthwhile upgrade. Just be ready to spend money. When I bought the first kit it was $1700. Now the same kit is $2700.