05 Flame Red TJ Build

[someguysjeep]

found an extra roller.
up to you, but if you want PM me an address and i'll throw some tidbits into a flat rate box and sent it out.

 

[JMT]

First beads and a filet weld. Tell me what to do to be better. 1/8” steel, gas at 20cfh and amps at 110 for the beads and 118 for the filet

I’ve labeled the order

1 and 2 were just straight lines (lol no tip movement side to side

3 was making e’s

The filet showing both sides

 

[someguysjeep]

flat open plate is rough nothin to line up on and nothin to help hold or form a clean puddle.

that last bit is what your lookin for. the blistered back says your hot enough and gettin penetration. looks like your set pretty good you just gotta learn to duplicate what you did at the end there consistently.

get a start and slip ahead a 1/16-3/32 and pause for a split second then advance and repeat. slip pause , slip pause, slip pause
see if thats helps smooth things out . it's all about pace. no need to make shapes just point the wire/ nozzle 45* into the corner and 30-40* forward, be set comfortable and sure you can make the whole movement easily b4 you start to weld.

 

[JMT]

A few more beads and filets while I piddle around and get feedback.

 

[JMT]

flat open plate is rough nothin to line up on and nothin to help hold or form a clean puddle.

that last bit is what your lookin for. the blistered back says your hot enough and gettin penetration. looks like your set pretty good you just gotta learn to duplicate what you did at the end there consistently.

get a start and slip ahead a 1/16-3/32 and pause for a split second then advance and repeat. slip pause , slip pause, slip pause
see if thats helps smooth things out . it's all about pace. no need to make shapes just point the wire/ nozzle 45* into the corner and 30-40* forward, be set comfortable and sure you can make the whole movement easily b4 you start to weld.

View attachment 308748

I try to remember to dry weld first so I don’t have to move. I’m holding the tip at 45* and ~45* forward pulling the puddle. That’s what @mrblaine told me to do as the most important thing.

I’ll try the slip-pause-slip-pause method.

 

[Wildman]

Hey buddy,
You're sticking shit together and it ain't glue....
Glad you are learning this and hope you have lots & lots of fun.

 

[someguysjeep]

it's literally a micro second pause your just allowing that puddle to fill as wide as the deposit you just left then scoot.
trying to keep a steady pace right off the rip isn't easy, once you start gettin solid lines then you can learn to have the patience to slide along.

not bad at all if this is your 1st time pullin a trigger, that last 1 is not bad at all,

 

[JMT]

Hey buddy,
You're sticking shit together and it ain't glue....
Glad you are learning this and hope you have lots & lots of fun.

You’re my inspiration

 

[JMT]

This was my best slip-pause so far. It’s harder for me, but I’m just starting today, so I have a long way to go. I can see why people use different strokes. Blaine said don’t do that!

Am I ready to do my frame tuck, raised body mounts and CA skids?

This was a vertical weld (one in the center)

 

[someguysjeep]

if your more comfortable sliding, go that route. your not really deviating from what Blaine has told you, a hesitation is just that and inline with your motion, it's an aid to confirm your fill b4 advancing.

it's all that hokey swirly circle stuff some do to waste enough time to lay a sufficient deposit while spreading the heat all over and never getting a singular deep penetration that you want to avoid.

vert down can have some motion 1/16 across the center back n forth, this takes heat away and allows a larger deposit to be left behind.

the lines in the welds are the tells, they show were you jumped a little more or stayed a milli second long, when the pace is perfect they blend like a gentle ripples on water. like that 1st end i highlighted.

 

[Wildman]

This was my best slip-pause so far. It’s harder for me, but I’m just starting today, so I have a long way to go. I can see why people use different strokes. Blaine said don’t do that!
View attachment 308758
Am I ready to do my frame tuck, raised body mounts and CA skids?

This was a vertical weld (one in the center)
View attachment 308759

See I told you it wasn't that hard. Heck if I can do it a caveman can....

Now get you and the boys up to the CC and take a welding class so you can go crazy. Soon you'll be posting pictures of the lawn art stuff you make for the wife.

 

[DrDmoney]

See I told you it wasn't that hard. Heck if I can do it a caveman can....

Now get you and the boys up to the CC and take a welding class so you can go crazy. Soon you'll be posting pictures of the lawn art stuff you make for the wife.

And make sure none of them want to be Ironworkers just because they can weld.

 

[someguysjeep]

ay and you asked about cleaning the surface of your table with WD40.

i know that some brake cleaner can screw you up if you vaporize it, and i wouldn't trust any other chemical on my welding surface that could also take a spark and vaporize....... take the grinder to it if it gets messy.

 

[Alex01]

Looks like its time for a BCE

 

[rasband]

ay and you asked about cleaning the surface of your table with WD40.

i know that some brake cleaner can screw you up if you vaporize it, and i wouldn't trust any other chemical on my welding surface that could also take a spark and vaporize....... take the grinder to it if it gets messy.

Acetone should be safe, just let it evaporate a few minutes since it's flammable.

The issue with some brake cleaners is the chlorinated hydrocarbons that turn into phosgene gas when welded. That'll kill you quick, so don't clean with brake cleaners.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Acetone should be safe, just let it evaporate a few minutes since it's flammable.

The issue with some brake cleaners is the chlorinated hydrocarbons that turn into phosgene gas when welded. That'll kill you quick, so don't clean with brake cleaners.

And if it doesn't kill you, permanent brain damage is a strong possibility. Nasty stuff - can't be said enough times. We are so used to using brake cleaner for metal cleanup, if you don't know any better it seems logical to use it to clean before welding. When it gets down into the pores and other imperfections, it does not evaporate right away.

 

[Alex01]

And if it doesn't kill you, permanent brain damage is a strong possibility. Nasty stuff - can't be said enough times. We are so used to using brake cleaner for metal cleanup, if you don't know any better it seems logical to use it to clean before welding. When it gets down into the pores and other imperfections, it does not evaporate right away.

I didn't know that. Thanks for the knowledge @rasband.

 

[rasband]

I didn't know that. Thanks for the knowledge @rasband.

Welcome to WWI, it's heavier than air so it would settle into trenches and kill troops.

https://emergency.cdc.gov/agent/phosgene/basics/facts.asp

 

[JMT]

Ok, so what are you guys saying?

No Brake Cleaner on the welding table.

What about

WD-40?
Alcohol?
Acetone?

 

[rasband]

Acetone

Yes. Acetone