Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

2004 LJ In Flux

Ya I have flares for legal reasons and for that reason alone. The only other fender I’m considering are the genrights. Obviously the rear flares can be removed but the fronts can’t be. The fronts are more conformed to the hood line than flux’s especially in the front which is where I’ve hit my stock fenders before so that would be my only concern is even with the flare removed I still hit the front.
I’m no expert with wheeling so maybe I’m worried about the wrong spot hitting too.
 
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NDSpeed said:
i think everyone will be going after the out of state tag crowd if it works.
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I remember moving to CO and for the first year I had wyoming plates on my truck and was never bothered. Even state farm told me to keep it registered in WY to keep my cost down. Only recently with these new flock cameras have i heard that they're starting to go after people with residency and out of state plates.

Either way, the additional removable flare option isn't for me (personal preference). I like the look of the standard 0 flare that klay originally introduced.
 
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Fluxor said:
Most recent changes. This is as clean as I can make the flare transition with the fender base and be able to make them. I think. We will see how the prototyping goes. This is a 4" flare for reference.
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I'm excited to see these in pics! Renders look really positive - but nothing looks like the bent metal.

Curious, and you likely covered this, what CAD are you using?

Second, what Jeep model are you using - meaning for the contours, mounting points, etc. Did you buy a model, scan one, etc. - just curious because that would be a huge data product to know exists.
 
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06TJ35's said:
If I had removable fenders, I’d throw them on before heading out if it had been raining. But honestly, if it’s wet, I’m not going off-roading in the first place. I hate mud.
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The pics I posted earlier are from a cross country trip I made to the high desert in the Utah canyon lands... I did not expect to be in mud at all lol... but it sure happened. :p

I was covered in mud because the Genright fenders do not give coverage for that, no one else in our group had the same issue.
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@Wildman "IF these work out do you have plans to offer the flares in different widths" Yes I will most likely offer two widths. We don't have fender coverage laws or they are not enforced if we do. From looking at the needs I would imagine a 4" and 6". TBD.

@Rickstar321 Thanks for the input, I do appreciate the feedback. The flare has to not flop around at 80 on the highway, this is easier said then done. The devil is in the details, nothing is as simple as it seems. I am not into that aesthetic. I am a function then form guy but the form has to be there or I wont use the function.

@tworley "I like the look of the standard 0 flare" Thanks, this is the version I will be running.

The fenders and and removable flares are intended for those with strict tire coverage laws. It is what it is. The idea is that they are easily removed for the trails. The flare is going to be made from 1/8 material. They need to be strong enough to keep their shape at 80 on the highways and withstand mud and snow being flung on to them. The flares are not designed to be smashed on rocks. Drive to the trail, zip them off and leave at camp or toss in the back, go have fun.

You cant damage what's not there. The Zero fender offers the most clearance. The Standard fender offers a little more coverage and will have the option to add the removable flare.
 
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Fluxor said:
@Wildman "IF these work out do you have plans to offer the flares in different widths" Yes I will most likely offer two widths. We don't have fender coverage laws or they are not enforced if we do. From looking at the needs I would imagine a 4" and 6". TBD.
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Thanks, I'll be watching. I have MC 8" flares on mine right now.

20250711_102119.jpg


Fluxor said:
@Rickstar321 Thanks for the input, I do appreciate the feedback. The flare has to not flop around at 80 on the highway, this is easier said then done. The devil is in the details, nothing is as simple as it seems. I am not into that aesthetic. I am a function then form guy but the form has to be there or I wont use the function.
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I totally respect what you're doing and appreciate it too. Wish you'd been doing this 5 years ago.

Fluxor said:
@tworley "I like the look of the standard 0 flare" Thanks, this is the version I will be running.

The fenders and and removable flares are intended for those with strict tire coverage laws. It is what it is. The idea is that they are easily removed for the trails. The flare is going to be made from 1/8 material. They need to be strong enough to keep their shape at 80 on the highways and withstand mud and snow being flung on to them. The flares are not designed to be smashed on rocks. Drive to the trail, zip them off and leave at camp or toss in the back, go have fun.

You cant damage what's not there. The Zero fender offers the most clearance. The Standard fender offers a little more coverage and will have the option to add the removable flare.
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I'd rather them to be a little more robust but I totally get it.
 
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Fluxor said:
Is that typical width you guys are running? Can those flares be easily removed for the trail? Are they Steel or Aluminum?
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I wouldn't say it's typical. When I first started buying parts I knew I wanted to try to stay legal or as close to it as I could. I'd been pulled over before for my tires sticking out.

These were 7" wide flares. And those are 35x13.5x15 Toyo M/T tires on a 10" rim. I couldn't tell you what the back spacing was.

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And when I put the tube fenders on I tried to put rubber flares on. They Looked like shit IMO

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And then when I went to the 38x12.5x16.5 TSL SX I had rims with about 4.25" back spacing.

1765980634789.png


The MC flares are steel. They do offer aluminum fenders and rear corners but even then the flares are steel.

The front flares are held on with 2 bolts. One @ each end of the flare. And the rears are held on with 6 bolts. 1 ate each end and then 4 and the top corners. But they're fairly easy to remove.

The wheels I have now are 3.5" back spacing but I'm also running 1.25" spacers.

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New axles I'm building I won't have to run the spacers so I'm hoping it'll suck the tires back in just a little bit. I'm 82" wide now.
 
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Wildman said:
I wouldn't say it's typical. When I first started buying parts I knew I wanted to try to stay legal or as close to it as I could. I'd been pulled over before for my tires sticking out.

These were 7" wide flares. And those are 35x13.5x15 Toyo M/T tires on a 10" rim. I couldn't tell you what the back spacing was.

View attachment 661103

And when I put the tube fenders on I tried to put rubber flares on. They Looked like shit IMO

View attachment 661104

And then when I went to the 38x12.5x16.5 TSL SX I had rims with about 4.25" back spacing.

View attachment 661105

The MC flares are steel. They do offer aluminum fenders and rear corners but even then the flares are steel.

The front flares are held on with 2 bolts. One @ each end of the flare. And the rears are held on with 6 bolts. 1 ate each end and then 4 and the top corners. But they're fairly easy to remove.

The wheels I have now are 3.5" back spacing but I'm also running 1.25" spacers.

View attachment 661107

New axles I'm building I won't have to run the spacers so I'm hoping it'll suck the tires back in just a little bit. I'm 82" wide now.
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For reference, here's their rub rail you can run when not running flares. You can see the two bolts, one at each end in the ball looking thing.

2221-Front-Overline-Flare-Removal.gif


This is how the attachment works.

1765984370271.png
 
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Would adding a ss rub rail (just like the old savvy rear corners) from the tub and along the fender under the removable flare be something better than the metalcloak rub tube flare? Add strength that ties in to more than just the fender lip for the flare to hold on too as well as gives it a smooth hard surface to slide if it does hit when the flare is removed.
Realized starky has something similar to it but used the genright tube as the front part.

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Apparition said:
Probably
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We'll talk...
The4bangertj said:
Would adding a ss rub rail (just like the old savvy rear corners) from the tub and along the fender under the removable flare be something better than the metalcloak rub tube flare? Add strength that ties in to more than just the fender lip for the flare to hold on too as well as gives it a smooth hard surface to slide if it does hit when the flare is removed.
Realized starky has something similar to it but used the genright tube as the front part.

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View attachment 661138
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The main reason for running those rub rails from MC is partly the same as what you're asking and that is a little standoff to keep things off your body. I might be wrong here but that's how I see it.
 
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