just waking up and read this without realizing the thread and thinking damn, taking blue molly for joint pain seems a bit much
Johnny Joint grease—an experiment
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
just waking up and read this without realizing the thread and thinking damn, taking blue molly for joint pain seems a bit much
just waking up and read this without realizing the thread and thinking damn, taking blue molly for joint pain seems a bit much
Getting old isnt for the weak!!
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I have a couple extra set of bushings that I’m thinking of trying to cut grooves into and see how they do. I have a little squeak in the front, but I’ve not 100% narrowed down where it’s coming from.
I'm in an area where the wheeling inevitably involves mud and the only way to avoid it is to not wheel. Sadly, it ranges from PA black coal swamp water, to VA red clay. If I take two wheeling trips, regardless of miles, the control arm groaning starts.
well dangit. My rear was creaking and I knew I used two different lubricants when I cleaned them out last year. When I took the uppers apart they looked like CV2, even had some red stuff, but unless I called an audible after this post and forgot about it later, it looks like I had Superlube w/ PTFE in those. Since I thought it was CV2 and they were the first to creak, I put Superlube in them which probably means I put them back in with the worst performing grease of the bunch.
There is a slight creak out of the front suspension which is a combination of CV2 and the stuff that Rockjock sells but it's not nearly as bad as the rear was, and I'm leaving it alone for now.
I put Metalcloaks in the rear LCA frame end. So I'll see how that goes. I used Superlube on that one too since Metalcloak recommends silicone w/ PTFE.
Call me crazy, but I swear the thing rides better when the joints are freshly lubricated.
I lubed up my JJs a little while ago. I deliberately put the zerks up so I wouldn't scrub them off.
Was talking with a mechanic friend of a friend and he has a Mac Tools grease accessory kit that includes a zerk fitting for hard to reach places. Ordered just that piece for $20.
-Mac
Was talking with a mechanic friend of a friend and he has a Mac Tools grease accessory kit that includes a zerk fitting for hard to reach places. Ordered just that piece for $20.
-Mac
That looks like it could be very useful. Let us know how it does. I switched to Lock-N-Lube tips a few years ago and those are too big to get into tight areas.
You're not crazy, I have the same impression when i lube mine.
Which MCs did you install? Is this a bushing replacement for the forged JJ end?
The best way to ruin your Johnny Joints is to lube them through the zerks. The zerks should be removed and replaced with plugs to avoid the temptation.
they call it a "JJ Rebuild Kit". It's a Duroflex bushing with an extra set of washers, to go into a JJ housing. They only have them for the large joints in our LCA's, not for the UCA's. I'll let these two run for a year or two and see if there is a net improvement to my user experience before making a decision whether to swap the front LCA's.
do you have any "insider" info regarding whether grease channels inside the shells were ever considered? Seems like they could take grease that way without damage, and not lose significant preload.
You presume sir I am capable of dismantling and reassembly without grievous error... gonna have to break one before I figure it out.
Was using 1", 15/16" and 7/8" sockets and my press.
I have yet to find a set of snap ring pliers worth a damn.
The 1" and 15/16" don't give you enough clearance for the snap ring. The 7/8" clears...but then deforms the washer and no matter how much I flattened it I couldn't get the snap ring to reseat.
-Mac
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Knipex makes good snap ring pliers. Rock Jock has the press tool.
All I know is if the channels clog up and you try to force it, all that does is extrude the race out the hole in the washer.
I cut a window in a 24 mm socket to allow the ring room to be removed. I could have gone smaller for more room.
Any other joint with a zerk has a path for grease to pass through and exit so you don't pressurize it, you're just flushing it.
With a JJ, the grease has nowhere to go but build in the center between the shells. It just pushes the shells apart until they get forced through the center of the washer.
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