I wish I knew what it was. I really loved it when I bought it. I think I'm set on eventually getting stuff paint matched, and when I do I'll post the color name or whatever.
2004 LJ In Flux
- Thread starter Fluxor
- Start date
I wish I knew what it was. I really loved it when I bought it. I think I'm set on eventually getting stuff paint matched, and when I do I'll post the color name or whatever.
I installed my Flux Offroad Rockers a few days ago. The process is as straight forward as it comes. Patience and planning is key. This is my DD, so I wanted to be sure when I started drilling, I had ample time to finish the whole process.
A few lessons learned:
- I underestimated how long it would take to get the stupid flares off. Every, Single, Flipping rivnut spun on me. I even soaked them a few times prior to removal which proved to just be a waste of penetrating oil. Lots of vice gripping, drilling, grinding and cussing. Once I had them all drilled out, I squeezed new rivnuts in. This would’ve been a bigger delay had I not had some stock and tools on hand. So, maybe plan for that.
- Clamps, clamps, clamps. The more the better. I’m the guy that walks into a room and short circuits if a picture is slightly crooked. Once you start drilling, well… you’ve started drilling. Make sure you’re happy with the fit before you pull the trigger.
- Painters tape: Small detail, but, on the first rocker I installed I put a piece of painters tape on the body. I found that the tape would tear and bunch up while jacking and lining it up. Plus, the tape made it harder for me to actually see the lines and fitment. I found it much better to run a piece of tape on the inside of the rocker during the fitment.
- Rivnuts: I’d HIGHLY recommend this tool.
I was hesitant to get it because of the bad reviews, price, and the fact that the rivnuts supplied by Klay are beefier than a standard and didn’t know if it’d have the balls to squeeze them. But once I saw a video on Amazon of a guy giving it a one star review, I realized most complaints were user error.
The tool chucks into the drill, the drill tightens and loosens the mandrel which squeezes the rivnut. It’s not designed to be slammed into either of its stops. Lengthen the mandrel enough to thread your rivnut on, pop it in the hole, hold the tool firmly with the clutch set to drill and the lowest speed/higher torque setting. Slowly pull the trigger. Once you feel the drill try to bind, you’re done. Here’s where everyone messes up: Set the drill to reverse and loosen the mandrel SLIGHTLY. Remove the tool from the chuck leaving the tool screwed in to the rivnut you just squeezed, and then screw it out by hand.
There’s different models of the tool, make sure you get the ADN38 XL which has the bigger M8 mandrel.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...u5MW5oRFN7_6A1MDN7YdxqhrsO85gNYgaAoA1EALw_wcB
Hand squeezing a million rivnuts can really suck and leave you with crooked nut because they never pull straight. This tool pulls them straight and centered every time.
- Make suuure you have a good understanding of where your rivnuts are going. I can definitely see someone getting in a hurry and oversizing the wrong hole. Don’t be that guy.
- Pay attention to your flare mounting holes. There was one rivnut on both aft flares that was covered up. I stuck an automatic center punch through the back of the rivnut to mark the aluminum backer, and used a unibit to drill a 3/4 hole once they were removed after initial fit up.
Fitted up.
After way too much overthinking, I decided to have a body shop color match and paint. I hate painting, and didn’t want the headache of spray paint peeling off a few months later. This way the work is guaranteed and will be easier to touch up if needed vs the powder coated route.
Off to the paint shop:
Naked LJ while they were away for paint.
Install process:
- Install was easy. Take your time with clamping, using the rotabroach/spot weld cutter for drilling the holes, and making sure your rivnuts are nice and centered, etc, and it should go together nicely. I used an alignment punch on a few holes just to make sure I could start every bolt that went into a rivnut by hand.
Final Install:
I couldn’t be happier with these. The product is superior to all of the crap on the market, especially for the LJ. Klay and I talked a lot along the way. He’s friendly, professional, and extremely helpful. Protect this man at all costs.
If you’re in the market, I’d highly recommend. I’ll for sure be returning for more goodies in the future.
A few lessons learned:
- I underestimated how long it would take to get the stupid flares off. Every, Single, Flipping rivnut spun on me. I even soaked them a few times prior to removal which proved to just be a waste of penetrating oil. Lots of vice gripping, drilling, grinding and cussing. Once I had them all drilled out, I squeezed new rivnuts in. This would’ve been a bigger delay had I not had some stock and tools on hand. So, maybe plan for that.
- Clamps, clamps, clamps. The more the better. I’m the guy that walks into a room and short circuits if a picture is slightly crooked. Once you start drilling, well… you’ve started drilling. Make sure you’re happy with the fit before you pull the trigger.
- Painters tape: Small detail, but, on the first rocker I installed I put a piece of painters tape on the body. I found that the tape would tear and bunch up while jacking and lining it up. Plus, the tape made it harder for me to actually see the lines and fitment. I found it much better to run a piece of tape on the inside of the rocker during the fitment.
- Rivnuts: I’d HIGHLY recommend this tool.
I was hesitant to get it because of the bad reviews, price, and the fact that the rivnuts supplied by Klay are beefier than a standard and didn’t know if it’d have the balls to squeeze them. But once I saw a video on Amazon of a guy giving it a one star review, I realized most complaints were user error.
The tool chucks into the drill, the drill tightens and loosens the mandrel which squeezes the rivnut. It’s not designed to be slammed into either of its stops. Lengthen the mandrel enough to thread your rivnut on, pop it in the hole, hold the tool firmly with the clutch set to drill and the lowest speed/higher torque setting. Slowly pull the trigger. Once you feel the drill try to bind, you’re done. Here’s where everyone messes up: Set the drill to reverse and loosen the mandrel SLIGHTLY. Remove the tool from the chuck leaving the tool screwed in to the rivnut you just squeezed, and then screw it out by hand.
There’s different models of the tool, make sure you get the ADN38 XL which has the bigger M8 mandrel.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...u5MW5oRFN7_6A1MDN7YdxqhrsO85gNYgaAoA1EALw_wcB
Hand squeezing a million rivnuts can really suck and leave you with crooked nut because they never pull straight. This tool pulls them straight and centered every time.
- Make suuure you have a good understanding of where your rivnuts are going. I can definitely see someone getting in a hurry and oversizing the wrong hole. Don’t be that guy.
- Pay attention to your flare mounting holes. There was one rivnut on both aft flares that was covered up. I stuck an automatic center punch through the back of the rivnut to mark the aluminum backer, and used a unibit to drill a 3/4 hole once they were removed after initial fit up.
Fitted up.
After way too much overthinking, I decided to have a body shop color match and paint. I hate painting, and didn’t want the headache of spray paint peeling off a few months later. This way the work is guaranteed and will be easier to touch up if needed vs the powder coated route.
Off to the paint shop:
Naked LJ while they were away for paint.
Install process:
- Install was easy. Take your time with clamping, using the rotabroach/spot weld cutter for drilling the holes, and making sure your rivnuts are nice and centered, etc, and it should go together nicely. I used an alignment punch on a few holes just to make sure I could start every bolt that went into a rivnut by hand.
Final Install:
I couldn’t be happier with these. The product is superior to all of the crap on the market, especially for the LJ. Klay and I talked a lot along the way. He’s friendly, professional, and extremely helpful. Protect this man at all costs.
If you’re in the market, I’d highly recommend. I’ll for sure be returning for more goodies in the future.
We've worn out at least 2 of those Astro tools. We've broken the mandrels of a couple of sizes when they really shouldn't have and learned a long time ago to never use them with a drill. We only use a long handle 1/4" drive ratchet with a deep socket that gets past the notch in the hex shank. If you grip it without getting past the notch, before long, it won't matter because that part will twist off. I have and use the tool so this isn't to say don't buy or use one because they are pretty handy. Just be aware they require some special care at times.
I can attest to the fender flare nutserts spinning. every. single. one.
I ended up adding nutserts to all the locations because I didn't like the goofiness of the plastic nuts. Luckily though I didn't have that hard of time removing them.
For those of you who have done the install and are keeping the factory flares, what did y'all do with the gap due to aluminum thickness pushing the bottom of the flare out? I haven't put mine back on yet because I haven't figured out a clean execution and my OCD with the gap will drive me nuts.
I notched the base/mounting surface of the flare like so. Different sliders but same principle.
What did you do on the other side of the flare? Did you lose the bottom most attachment?
Yes. I have added a nursert screw just above the slider holding that corner down. That being said my flares are also highlined so I’m not using any stock mounting holes at all.
I imagine your output to mine is a million to one. It’s good to know you’ve found a way to lengthen the life a tad. Thanks for the info.
N
Yep. Mine sat for probably 6 months or more before I could make the time to get to it. Sucks
Looks worst just from my poor craftsmanship since it looks ripped half way than cut. Also trimmed the gas cap since the flare is raised.
Thanks for that. I’m thinking about trimming it like this, but then gluing that inner piece back on that you lost when you cut it. I’ll post pics if I go that route.
Not sure what kind of glue or epoxy I’d use. Gotta over think the shit out of it first
Thanks for that. I’m thinking about trimming it like this, but then gluing that inner piece back on that you lost when you cut it. I’ll post pics if I go that route.
Not sure what kind of glue or epoxy I’d use. Gotta over think the shit out of it first
I bought a plastic welder to try instead of glue. Cutting off that inner piece was my initial thought too but still not sure the welder will work which is another reason why haven't tried yet. I did buy a couple extra wheel flares to practice on so I should probably just try cutting/trimming and see where it takes me.
No they are not. They are either polypropylene or TPO but leaning toward TPO without being able to check right now. If you have factory ones, the material callout should be molded into the back side of the part.
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