How to install Hyundai Tiburon seats in a Jeep Wrangler TJ

Got a torch, but even after heating for a while a hammer didn't budge it, although i'm not a metal worker by any means!

Ended up just drilling them out, although seem to have destroyed a 3mm HSS bit on only 6 rivets. Disappointed by this Bosch set i bought. Was supposed to be a "professional" kit to avoid going to the storage unit to dig mine out, but they've been worse than the cheap ones i've had. Been taking it really slow and easy too with plenty of breaks to cool the tip.

Might have to pick up a few cheap bits for the other seat!
 
Got a torch, but even after heating for a while a hammer didn't budge it, although i'm not a metal worker by any means!

Ended up just drilling them out, although seem to have destroyed a 3mm HSS bit on only 6 rivets. Disappointed by this Bosch set i bought. Was supposed to be a "professional" kit to avoid going to the storage unit to dig mine out, but they've been worse than the cheap ones i've had. Been taking it really slow and easy too with plenty of breaks to cool the tip.

Might have to pick up a few cheap bits for the other seat!

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I used my oxy/acetylene torch. I don't think a propane, butane, MAP gas, etc. torch will do it. I'd have to look at it more closely but a shop press (no heat) might do it if you have access to one.
 
Ah, that makes me feel better and not just clarify i'm completely useless!

I'm fairly limited on tools as a lot are in storage, and with being new in Spain i've not really had chance to make friends with any local garages with tools. Got all 4 brackets off the passenger seat which i'm fitting first, so plan to focus on getting this in and then pick up some cheap bits for the other seat.

Have however just realised i'll need some kind of shim as otherwise the metal bar will obstruct the locking pins on the seat slider. Part of the idea for removing all brackets was to have a lower seat position!
 
Note to self, don't blindly copy people without thinking. Just realised as i came to offer up the seat to the mount, that both sides of my Jeep have the tumble feature and so there are a few more obstructions on top. Avoiding these will require a lot of spacers to clear it and potentially put the seat too high up.

I see Rugged Ridge do some seat brackets for bucket seats. Maybe i need to start from the ground up and rethink this properly!

@PCO6 I see from your previous post your Passenger seat had the fold and tumble feature, yet the base brackets you've mounted to looked flat. Were they from another car without the tumble feature?
 
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Note to self, don't blindly copy people without thinking. Just realised as i came to offer up the seat to the mount, that both sides of my Jeep have the tumble feature and so there are a few more obstructions on top. Avoiding these will require a lot of spacers to clear it and potentially put the seat too high up.

I see Rugged Ridge do some seat brackets for bucket seats. Maybe i need to start from the ground up and rethink this properly!

@PCO6 I see from your previous post your Passenger seat had the fold and tumble feature, yet the base brackets you've mounted to looked flat. Were they from another car without the tumble feature?

I don't recall this being a problem. Both sides of mine have the fold and tumble feature but they now work differently. I welded a small leaver to the tube that actuates the fold and tumble and attached a pull chain to it. I really have to yank on the cord and it's not perfect but it works. I added 1/2" spacers at the rear of each seat to increase the tilt forward but I don't recall that being necessary for clearance reasons.

Here is a pic of the pull cord. Disregard the metal box which I use for locking a few small items in.

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I also have the fold and tumble on both sides. I don't use the feature very often so didn't really miss it that much. I just went back to stock seats and even order a non -foldable drivers base. When I did need to fold the seats forward I just reached under and rotated the release crossbar by hand. It wasn't to difficult. My brackets did limit how far the seat would fold forward a bit but no to much.
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I also have the fold and tumble on both sides. I don't use the feature very often so didn't really miss it that much. I just went back to stock seats and even order a non -foldable drivers base. When I did need to fold the seats forward I just reached under and rotated the release crossbar by hand. It wasn't to difficult. My brackets did limit how far the seat would fold forward a bit but no to much.
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I don't use the feature very often either. I removed my rear seat and the brackets and access the cargo area via the rear door.
 
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I don't use it either, as like you, i've also removed the rear seat. Just need to re-fit for the annual testing requirements (need to try and find the seatbelts too!)

Maybe i'm overthinking it, but as i removed the brackets from the Tiburon seats (weird saying that. It's just a Hyundai Coupe over here!) then the raised part of the hinge sticks up maybe 1" in exactly the line where the seat runners would sit.

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Same as 06LJ above, does that part not get in the way of attaching the seat runner to the flat bar?



That picture really highlights how manky my carpets are :(
 
I can see your issue. My bases are from a 2006 and are a different design. I still had to notch the Hyundai seat bracket to clear the raised part of the Jeep seat base. Post #57 of this thread used the earlier seat base like yours. It does show the necessity of using raised spacers.

Clearing the seat belt retractor was probably the hardest part of the install for me. If you use spacers to clear the seat base then it wont be an issue. This was my first thought. For my install I had to cut the Hyundai seat trim on the center console side of the seat and position them as close to the console as possible. It is a tight fit but was possible. The retractor is also a different design in my 06.
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Ah yea, i see that post now. If only i had a welder! Though sure i'll be able to find something. Maybe some thick box section would do the job for me.
 
Ah yea, i see that post now. If only i had a welder! Though sure i'll be able to find something. Maybe some thick box section would do the job for me.

I had originally thought of using some aluminum spacers and had a set of OME .75" bump stops that I was going to use. I think you are right that replacing the cross pieces with some square tube would be an easier quicker option without needing to weld.
 
as far as drilling out the rivets on the hyundai seats, I used a 4" grinder on the mushroomed end of the rivets untill they were almost flush with the seat brackets. then drove them out with a punch.
 
A quick question if anyone is still monitoring the thread. All the designs seem to be 4 pieces of 1/4" flat plate in a box pattern but is there any reason not to use say 4" x1/4" plate on the inside and 2" on the outside but not connect the 2 sides. Ie just make 2 rail adapters rather than a full seat adapter?

Maybe it doesn't quite work/fit? Or does the extra 1/4" clearance help?

I'm working on putting some 07 mini seats in but just in planning stage. Thx.
 
Regarding wide bar rails on each side, I think that would work, I didn't see any obstruction.

I do think at least the mini seats I have (07 mini) can be done with 4 rail adapter pods. I was working on the passenger side today. Just prototyping with black plastic to get close to the spacing. It would be easy enough to mock them up in 3/8 plywood too.

Needs a little work still as hits the rollcage slightly and the side handle is touching the door pocket. Once the spacing is done then I'd add a 3rd bolt to stop any pivoting on each plate. Or I might try creating an odd shape to make the 4 pods into 2 rails.

My goal is to keep original base fully functional and backwards compatible with original seats as my seats are good and I might change back.

A pod style would essentially keep everything stock. Only thing I might need to move/redo is the bracket for the tumble actuating wire.

Probably start a thread when I'm on it next. Next step will be an aluminum test (I can CNC cut plastic and aluminum so that's what I use) and then make it in steel if it works out. It's not as simple as the 1/4" flat bar stock mods but I think it's worth doing to keep the ability to go back to stock if needed.

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In the photo is as looking down on passenger seat from front. The outer pods space the holes out 1 1/8" (need to reduce to 1" or 15/16"). And the inner pods do the rest. The large hole is to clear the seat belt attachment.

IMG_20241025_181835242~2.jpg
 
Just a quick follow up. Made these into rails in cad then uploaded to send cut send and its only coming out at $65.00 (plus shipping) which seems pretty good.

I'll still be doing a final test in scap aluminum to make sure it all works.
 
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So I had to come back and post in this thread. I sold my TJ a couple years ago. Last year I picked up a 92 YJ. It’s great. Spring over , Dana44 Ford 9. 37” tires stretched 4”. I REALLY like it!

But I had to have Tiburon seats like I did in my last TJ!!

These are out of a 2007 Tiburon. Black leather outer cloth center. Has some busted seams but I took the covers off and sewed that up. Anyway here are pics and how I adapted these into a YJ! Really easy and straight forward. Seats slide full range and passenger folds and tumbles.

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So I had to come back and post in this thread. I sold my TJ a couple years ago. Last year I picked up a 92 YJ. It’s great. Spring over , Dana44 Ford 9. 37” tires stretched 4”. I REALLY like it!

But I had to have Tiburon seats like I did in my last TJ!!

These are out of a 2007 Tiburon. Black leather outer cloth center. Has some busted seams but I took the covers off and sewed that up. Anyway here are pics and how I adapted these into a YJ! Really easy and straight forward. Seats slide full range and passenger folds and tumbles.

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Nice YJ! ... and seats too. (y)
 
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