Got an alignment print out. How bad is it?

FultonD33

FultonD33

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Jul 6, 2021
Messages
127
Location
Tuscaloosa AL
I got them to print a sheet, they didn't attempt to align anything. I have a RC 2.5" lift with adjustable arms (didn't install the lift it was on it when I got it). I installed Currie Currectlync and Currie front track bar, as well as Timken hubs, and spicer ball joints. Caster looks wayyyy off. The jeep does not drive pleasant to say the least and it never has. Should I attempt to align it myself or find a 4wd shop an hour away? I can do toe and center steering wheel but I am not sure about caster.

Yes I know the axle is probably bent but in reality it shouldn't be that big of a deal.


IMG_1117.jpg
 
Last edited:
The front toe is fine, the spec is total toe for a solid axle vehicle. He just needed to point the steering wheel left a hair and both would be green.

The camber isn’t going to cause any major issues for you.

With 9* of caster you should have major front drive shaft vibrations. Do you?

And the rear axle is sitting perfectly square.
 
Lou said:
The front toe is fine, the spec is total toe for a solid axle vehicle. He just needed to point the steering wheel left a hair and both would be green.

The camber isn’t going to cause any major issues for you.

With 9* of caster you should have major front drive shaft vibrations. Do you?

And the rear axle is sitting perfectly square.
Click to expand...
They didn't align it, I just asked for a print out. I don't have my front driveshaft installed but it did not have vibrations when it was in. The jeep just doesn't drive how it should at all.
 
FultonD33 said:
They didn't align it, I just asked for a print out. I don't have my front driveshaft installed but it did not have vibrations when it was in. The jeep just doesn't drive how it should at all.
Click to expand...
You want to square up that rear axle so the thrust angle is closer to 0. I’d dial the caster back to 6-7*. “Slightly” less toe in and center the steering wheel.


What’s the jeep doing that you don’t like?
 
Your front toe-in is excessive, the left and right sides total .420 but they should total .30. And of course the caster at 9 degrees is way excessive, it should be closer to 6 degrees for slightly oversize tires.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CharlesHS
Lou said:
You want to square up that rear axle so the thrust angle is closer to 0. I’d dial the caster back to 6-7*. “Slightly” less toe in and center the steering wheel.


What’s the jeep doing that you don’t like?
Click to expand...
What do you mean by "square up"? As in with an adjustable rear track bar?

I don't exactly know how to explain what it is doing. It pulls both left and right depending on the road. Not just following the crown. Most notably on a flat road it pulls left (more like darts right depending on speed) and takes constant right input to correct it. It also follows the crown of the road horribly bad. Wheel returns to center pretty decent. Has about a 1/8 turn on slop in the steering wheel (steering box probably). Alignment shop suggested some of it could be coming from steering box.
 
Last edited:
Jerry Bransford said:
Your front toe-in is excessive, the left and right sides total .420 but they should total .30. And of course the caster at 9 degrees is way excessive, it should be closer to 6 degrees for slightly oversize tires.
Click to expand...
These type of replies bug me because everyone thinks you’re the jeep god. .42* is not way excessive. That’s a cunt hair toed in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pc1p and pagrey
Install the front driveshaft and check the difference between the pinion yoke and the driveshaft; the difference should be about 0*. Adjust the control arms to achieve this....
Then check the front caster which should have decreased to around 6*.
JB is correct... the LF Toe is out of spec and should be adjusted to 0.09-0.21.

With a 2.5" lift; these numbers should not be difficult to achieve.
 
Last edited:
CharlesHS said:
Install the front driveshaft and check the difference between the pinion yoke and the driveshaft; the difference should be about 0*. Adjust the control arms to achieve this....
Then check the front caster which should have decreased to around 6*.
JB is correct... the LF Toe is out of spec and should be adjusted to 0.09-0.21.

With a 2.5" lift; these numbers should not be difficult to achieve.
Click to expand...
I will try to do these. I don't have a front driveshaft unfortunately mine got torn up when replacing u joints and I have yet to get a new one. Is there a way to measure it at the yoke?
 
FultonD33 said:
I will try to do these. I don't have a front driveshaft unfortunately mine got torn up when replacing u joints and I have yet to get a new one. Is there a way to measure it at the yoke?
Click to expand...
You can adjust the caster with the adjustable control arms, but without the driveshaft installed you will not know what the driveshaft angles would be which is why you adjust both camber and driveshaft angle at the same time.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
FultonD33 said:
What do you mean by "square up"? As in with an adjustable rear track bar?

I don't exactly know how to explain what it is doing. It pulls both left and right depending on the road. Not just following the crown. Most notably on a flat road it pulls left (more like darts right depending on speed) and takes constant right input to correct it. It also follows the crown of the road horribly bad. Wheel returns to center pretty decent. Has about a 1/8 turn on slop in the steering wheel (steering box probably). Alignment shop suggested some of it could be coming from steering box.
Click to expand...

Your rear axle is pointing slightly left. You need to either shorten your driver rear lower control arm or lengthen the passenger by about 1/4", and then adjust the upper on the same side by the same amount. If you want to kill some time you can split the difference and adjust each side by 1/8".
 
Toe is green on the printout, it probably isn't a big deal. 9 caster is only one degree extra. I've never heard of excess caster or toe-in for that matter causing the things described here. How are your control arm bushings? If the alignment shop suggested looking at the steering gearbox that might be a good idea. How are your tires, have you rotated them all around and checked the pressures?
 
pagrey said:
Toe is green on the printout, it probably isn't a big deal. 9 caster is only one degree extra. I've never heard of excess caster or toe-in for that matter causing the things described here. How are your control arm bushings? If the alignment shop suggested looking at the steering gearbox that might be a good idea. How are your tires, have you rotated them all around and checked the pressures?
Click to expand...
Excessive toe in or toe out will definitely cause the jeep to drive like shit but less than 1/16” out of nominal, I doubt it.
 
Lou said:
Excessive toe in or toe out will definitely cause the jeep to drive like shit but less than 1/16” out of nominal, I doubt it.
Click to expand...
Ya, toe-out absolutely will cause this but like you pointed out it's in spec which means toe-in to some degree, 0.16-0.42 if my eyes are any good. As with most things you post, I agree.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lou
What is the backspacing in your wheels? If you're running something really low like 3", especially combined with wide tires like 12.5", your excessive scrub radius will make the rig follow ruts and grooves in the road and can feel darty.
 

Similar threads

M
Here is a familiar issue: death wobble
Replies
10
Views
1,727
TJ General Discussion
MarkAllan
M
S
Sequence of correcting a crap lift
Replies
56
Views
3,346
TJ General Discussion
SuperTramp
S
Cameron23
Suspension Decisions: Can’t Make Up My Mind
Replies
53
Views
2,485
TJ General Discussion
Moglocker
Moglocker
John Middleton
Another alignment issue
Replies
34
Views
3,825
TJ General Discussion
Jerry Bransford
Jerry Bransford
nuffsaid
Trying to figure out rear springs on 97 TJ
Replies
11
Views
1,503
TJ General Discussion
nuffsaid
nuffsaid
Top Bottom