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Help! Driveline Vibration After Lift Install

Kyle

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Joined
Jan 6, 2017
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33
Location
Nebraska
I put that Currie 4" lift in and it recommend running the stock control arm length, but I didn't. I adjusted it for proper double cardan driveshaft but still have vibration. When it had weight in it it seemed to help so I made it closer to factory which helped but not fix. So I adjusted it more(still not to factory). But still have vibes... Help! Lol
 
So you also installed an aftermarket CV (double cardan) driveshaft when you installed the Currie suspension?

If so, is your rear pinion angle set to the angle shown here? Does the vibration seem to be worse while accelerating or while decelerating?

CV Driveshaft Angles.gif
 
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@Kyle, I went ahead and made a post of this for you instead of keeping it in a PM. That way more people can give you input.

Where in Currie's documentation does it say to keep the control arms at the stock length? When I installed my Currie 4" lift, it had specific lengths for the adjustable control arms to be set to, and I found that Currie's measurements were dead on accurate.

So first off, I would make sure you have your new control arms adjusted to the right length.

After that is taken care of (and assuming you did indeed install a double cardan driveshaft and you're NOT using the stock driveshaft), your rear pinion should be sitting 1-2 degrees lower than the angle of your driveshaft. So for instance, if your driveshaft is at 15 degrees, your pinion would be 1-2 degrees lower. This is because when you accelerate, the pinion will rise slightly.

@derekmac did a nice write-up on all of this. I'm looking for it, but for the life of me I can't find it.

EDIT: Here it is: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-a-sye-cv-driveshaft-and-why-do-i-want-one.2701/
 
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@Kyle, I went ahead and made a post of this for you instead of keeping it in a PM. That way more people can give you input.

Where in Currie's documentation does it say to keep the control arms at the stock length? When I installed my Currie 4" lift, it had specific lengths for the adjustable control arms to be set to, and I found that Currie's measurements were dead on accurate.

So first off, I would make sure you have your new control arms adjusted to the right length.

After that is taken care of (and assuming you did indeed install a double cardan driveshaft and you're NOT using the stock driveshaft), your rear pinion should be sitting 1-2 degrees lower than the angle of your driveshaft. So for instance, if your driveshaft is at 15 degrees, your pinion would be 1-2 degrees lower. This is because when you accelerate, the pinion will rise slightly.

@derekmac did a nice write-up on all of this. I'm looking for it, but for the life of me I can't find it.

EDIT: Here it is: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-a-sye-cv-driveshaft-and-why-do-i-want-one.2701/
So it doesn't say keep them stock length. After looking into it farther the difference is 1/4" longer on uppers according to Currie recommendation.
 
So here's what I did... I went with currie's recommendation and then I put an angle finder on the pinion and driveshaft to make the pinion in line with the driveshaft. In doing that, I had to adjust the uppers out about a full inch. Had vibrations so I adjusted the bottom out to tip the pinion down a little and that seemed to help but I still didn't think it was right, so I adjusted the bottom quite a bit more and that made it worse so I brought it back in half of what I went out last time and it didn't seem to change and that's when I asked Chris. This morning I redid all of them to currie's and it's still not right. The picture of the driveshaft is with the arms set at Currie s recommendation

IMG_20170514_095331036_HDR.jpg


IMG_20170514_104844430.jpg
 
When first accelerating and at low speed it sounds as if the joints are "knocking".. you can hear them like "clunking or knocking". I don't know how to describe the sound but I know the sound lol. I just put all new u joints in the driveshaft.
 
So it doesn't say keep them stock length. After looking into it farther the difference is 1/4" longer on uppers according to Currie recommendation.

Yep, that may seem like an insignificant amount, but it's not. Get those control arms adjusted to the exact lengths they recommend, then see if the vibrations persist.
 
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So here's what I did... I went with currie's recommendation and then I put an angle finder on the pinion and driveshaft to make the pinion in line with the driveshaft. In doing that, I had to adjust the uppers out about a full inch. Had vibrations so I adjusted the bottom out to tip the pinion down a little and that seemed to help but I still didn't think it was right, so I adjusted the bottom quite a bit more and that made it worse so I brought it back in half of what I went out last time and it didn't seem to change and that's when I asked Chris. This morning I redid all of them to currie's and it's still not right. The picture of the driveshaft is with the arms set at Currie s recommendation
It's hard to say from your picture since it doesn't show much of the rear axle but it looks like your pinion angle is too low.
 
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