05 Flame Red TJ Build

Some mods cause drama, and they aren’t like kids, they’re unpredictable, you can never tell which one is going to cause mayhem.

My CB system was like that. It’s still an issue, I think.

This time it’s the headlights. I ordered some Hella housings. I was going to try the bulbs they came with and upgrade from there if need be. Easy install. I couldn’t tell much difference, so I put the harness and bulbs on the Amazon wish list.

2 months later Iater I received them as gifts for my birthday. Igot around to the install and noticed the housings were sealed. I hadn’t paid much attention when I got them. I just supposed they were right. I checked my order. Sure enough, I ordered the right ones. It was now more than 30 days past return date, but a simple call to Amazon and it got straightened out.

I have to say the harness with these bulbs is sooo much better. Light is more focused, less scattering. Super happy with these. Note the location I mounted the harness. I think it’s the only place it would go!
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bobthetj03 said:
That's exactly where I mounted my relays for the harness. Just seemed like the most logical place.
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Not sure there was any other place that would allow the short power line to reach the post in the fuse box. It barely reached!
 
Axle shaft day. Carbon Offroad. Great personalized packaging.
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All did not go as well once I got inside the packaging. Removed the drivers side first. This was the shaft that wasn’t broken, but we’re doing both, so who cares where you start. Got all the way in, pulled the shaft, installed the new shaft. Looking good so far. Go to slip the hub back on the outer shaft. It won’t go on. I pull it off and start counting splines. 32. I compare it to the passenger shaft, well, obviously larger. So, they built that side wrong. Called and they will have another one out for me ASAP. Good customer service. Put it all back together and went to the other side. That side went in fine until the very end. Putting the brake caliper’s back on. You know, the stupid M8 1.25 13mm bolts. They start going in and then it suddenly gets hard, so I’m shaking the rotor to keep it smooth, but it won’t smooth out. They won’t go in. I pull the bolts and the threads are full of stuff. What? I try again, something’s not right, same thing, both bolts. We are obviously stripping out the cast. My buddy is looking at the bolts. He’s like, “these are both slightly bent.” I’m like, what? Sure enough. Now I’m worried about the cast part. I‘m thinking worst case scenario, try to drill out the larger size, but the larger size is 3/8” and a 3/8” won’t fit through the caliper hole. So, we just go to the store and pick up some straight grade 8 M8 1.25’s. Fortunately, very fortunately, they grabbed right off and held well. So, long story endless. At least I have two shafts, even though one is still OEM.
 
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Did I ever say IH8MUD? Why do I keep driving into it? My feet didn't get wet! See, I even share some of my defeats. Yes, that's a 4Runner. Pretty embarrassing, but I think my diff was sitting on something. Really couldn't figure out why I couldn't go anywhere.

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JMT said:
Did I ever say IH8MUD? Why do I keep driving into it? My feet didn't get wet! See, I even share some of my defeats. Yes, that's a 4Runner. Pretty embarrassing, but I think my diff was sitting on something. Really couldn't figure out why I couldn't go anywhere.

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You'll remember this moment as endless dirt/rocks are falling into your eyes during your Tummy Tuck install :ROFLMAO:

It's hard to resist a mud puddle.
 
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I went with the Power Stop K2152 Front Brake Kit with Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors and Z23 Evolution Ceramic Brake Pads. I found them on Amazon. They had good reviews and were around $140 bucks for rotors and pads. Follow the break in instructions and they will about put you through the wind shield. I cant speak for longevity yet, but way better than stock pads and rotors in my opinion.
 
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Quigley said:
I went with the Power Stop K2152 Front Brake Kit with Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors and Z23 Evolution Ceramic Brake Pads. I found them on Amazon. They had good reviews and were around $140 bucks for rotors and pads. Follow the break in instructions and they will about put you through the wind shield. I cant speak for longevity yet, but way better than stock pads and rotors in my opinion.
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Vasq said:
i just have centric pads as well their rotors
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Do I have to replace rotors at the same time as pads?

Edit: researching and looks like it's a function of wear. I'd still appreciate your wisdom...
 
JMT said:
Do I have to replace rotors at the same time as pads?

Edit: researching and looks like it's a function of wear. I'd still appreciate your wisdom...
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You generally want to replace rotors with pads. If money is real tight and the rotor don't look terrible, like not grooved or have big ridges in them, you should be ok. You might also be able to have them turned.

If you get on Rock auto though, I bet you can get two rotors and a set of pads for less than 100 bucks. Won't be great, but they will be functional until you get the coin around to spring for BMB.

I also have the power stop set up from Amazon. They're only ok with my 33's. I can get them to chirp the tires on the first hard stop, but they fade out pretty quick after that.
 
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JMT said:
Do I have to replace rotors at the same time as pads?

Edit: researching and looks like it's a function of wear. I'd still appreciate your wisdom...
Click to expand...
Mike_H said:
You generally want to replace rotors with pads. If money is real tight and the rotor don't look terrible, like not grooved or have big ridges in them, you should be ok. You might also be able to have them turned.

If you get on Rock auto though, I bet you can get two rotors and a set of pads for less than 100 bucks. Won't be great, but they will be functional until you get the coin around to spring for BMB.

I also have the power stop set up from Amazon. They're only ok with my 33's. I can get them to chirp the tires on the first hard stop, but they fade out pretty quick after that.
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Mike beat me to it. If you can get them turned, then you don't need to replace the rotors. Centric makes good OEM quality brake stuff in my opinion, but they aren't performance by any means. And on Rock Auto I can usually get new rotors for pretty much the same as getting them turned, plus i don't have to drop off/pick up.
 
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Mike_H said:
You generally want to replace rotors with pads. If money is real tight and the rotor don't look terrible, like not grooved or have big ridges in them, you should be ok. You might also be able to have them turned.

If you get on Rock auto though, I bet you can get two rotors and a set of pads for less than 100 bucks. Won't be great, but they will be functional until you get the coin around to spring for BMB.

I also have the power stop set up from Amazon. They're only ok with my 33's. I can get them to chirp the tires on the first hard stop, but they fade out pretty quick after that.
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Vasq said:
Mike beat me to it. If you can get them turned, then you don't need to replace the rotors. Centric makes good OEM quality brake stuff in my opinion, but they aren't performance by any means. And on Rock Auto I can usually get new rotors for pretty much the same as getting them turned, plus i don't have to drop off/pick up.
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I’m so reticent to spend money right now, so I ask my wife, cheaper brakes or the best brakes? And she says “get the best, you don’t fool around with that.” She says not to use Jeep money since it’s maintenance and will last for years! So, I guess I’m going to part with the money and go BMB and rotors! Woohoo 🥳!
 
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JMT said:
I’m so reticent to spend money right now, so I ask my wife, cheaper brakes or the best brakes? And she says “get the best, you don’t fool around with that.” She says not to use Jeep money since it’s maintenance and will last for years! So, I guess I’m going to part with the money and go BMB and rotors! Woohoo 🥳!
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Smart choice. You will be amazed to the performance offroad, but let's not tell her that one, k.
 
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