Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Help me make a decision on my BL

CasperLLY

TJ Enthusiast
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Joined
Feb 12, 2018
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128
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US
When I bought my 99 Sahara th PO had put a 2 inch Bl on it. I just put an OME 2 inch suspension lift on it. I'm not sure if I should just leave the BL on it or change it to a 1.25. I plan on putting a 1 MML on it in hopes to get ride of the TC drop. At some point I plan to fix the rusted body mounts in the tub under the door
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Get rid of it and put a 1.25" body lift on it. 2" of body lift is too much.

Put a 1" MML on it at the same time and you'll be golden.
 
Chris, what company would you go with or does it matter

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Jks is a very reputable company but savvy seems to be the top choice
The difference is that JKS is a softer puck. You won't get the advertised amount of lift, nor will the loading be even across the body mounts. This can cause rippling in the sheet metal. Savvy is an aluminum puck, which raises the body, while still allowing the factory body mounts to work correctly.
 
The difference is that JKS is a softer puck. You won't get the advertised amount of lift, nor will the loading be even across the body mounts. This can cause rippling in the sheet metal. Savvy is an aluminum puck, which raises the body, while still allowing the factory body mounts to work correctly.
I've seen the JKS buldge you've referred to in other posts, dont doubt the assessment... Have you or do you know others that have taken measurements to see how much compression occurred over time?
 
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I've seen the JKS buldge you've referred to in other posts, dont doubt the assessment... Have you or do you know others that have taken measurements to see how much compression occurred over time?
The compression and bulge occurred immediately on mine. I think I'm getting a little over an inch. If I wanted less, I would just keep tightening.

I do intend to change over to Savvy in the future, mostly because I want the more positive connection between the body and frame. This is a bit of speculation, the tub on mine popped a spot weld on the back of the door opening, causing a squeak. I can't help but wonder if this is a result of the squishy JKS body lift.
 
Chris, what company would you go with or does it matter

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I installed a jks 1.25 bl. It works fine. With that being said if i ever do it again I will go with solid aluminum risers. Like savvy or M.O.R.E.

The M.O.R.E comes with a steering shaft riser. But im still not 100% convinced that it does that much. (I currently have one installed)
https://www.mountainoffroad.com/1-body-lift-97-06-tj.html

You will get the extra 1/4 inch from the savvy. They are well known for quality.
Link to savvy lift.
https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-bltj/
 
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Thanks for the replies. Fixing the body mounts on the tub is going to suck. Lol

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Add another vote for Savvy. Before I bought my JKS BL I was under the impression aluminum would transfer vibes. Not the case with savvy as you still are riding on the factory bushings. I plan to change mine someday too.

I am using a JKS 1" motor mount lift. Nothing fancy about them, just a block of aluminum. Ive seen cheaper, off brand versions on ebay that would probably do the exact same job.
 
I've seen the JKS buldge you've referred to in other posts, dont doubt the assessment... Have you or do you know others that have taken measurements to see how much compression occurred over time?
It isn't so much that it happens over time it is that it is variable from the start. Want less lift? Just tighten them a bit more. What most overlook is the tub and frame are a unitized structure that are stronger as a sum of the parts than each part by themselves and you don't want that connection compromised by a sponge.
 
My body is bent from what I suspect is the use of JKS pucks. It happened within a few years of installing. They have since been removed and the frame raised.

I'd only go with Savvy if I were to redo.

IMG_20180811_121334.jpg
 
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My body is bent from what I suspect is the use of JKS pucks. It happened within a few years of installing. They have since been removed and the frame raised.

View attachment 66737
Raising the side body mounts and possibly the rear of the frame is another reason I want to switch to a hard puck. I can't see how the remaining stock mounts could be evenly loaded with the JKS spacers.
 
Raising the side body mounts and possibly the rear of the frame is another reason I want to switch to a hard puck. I can't see how the remaining stock mounts could be evenly loaded with the JKS spacers.

This is what I did. The Genright body mounts are the way to go as they set the height perfectly for 1.25". On the LJ (and I suspect TJ) you do need to shave them slightly where they wrap the mid-arm brackets. Just use a caliper set to 3/16" (iirc, double check me) and mark a line to cut to.

Here is a link to where I installed them on my build thread: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...le-adventure-lj-story.9956/page-3#post-180974
 
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Chris, what company would you go with or does it matter

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Savvy. I like that they use an aluminum mount versus poly (like JKS).

Rokmen and GenRight also make aluminum as well. Basically I prefer to use aluminum mounts over poly for the same reasons Blaine mentioned above.
 
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This is what I did. The Genright body mounts are the way to go as they set the height perfectly for 1.25". On the LJ (and I suspect TJ) you do need to shave them slightly where they wrap the mid-arm brackets. Just use a caliper set to 3/16" (iirc, double check me) and mark a line to cut to.

Here is a link to where I installed them on my build thread: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...le-adventure-lj-story.9956/page-3#post-180974
Very nice. GenRight is likely the plan. It seems cleaner and a bit more foolproof than if I try to reuse the stock mounts.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator