Sab-a-dab-a-doo! The back-country LJ build has officially started
- Thread starter sab
- Start date
The remote almost fit in the test print. The width was a hair too tight, but the length was too short. After fixing these dimensions, I spent most of the day re-working the model to simplify it. I then did another test print, and the remote fits perfectly. Here it is in the console with the subwoofer below it and the remote in place:
I just cued up a test print of the full insert. It'll be done in about 18 hours. To fit it, I'll have to remove the subwoofer. Then, before I reinstall the subwoofer, I need to make some revisions to the steel subwoofer bracket I made because it shares a mounting point with the insert (the one with the screw in it in the photo above). I'm almost done with this part! Stay tuned...
I just cued up a test print of the full insert. It'll be done in about 18 hours. To fit it, I'll have to remove the subwoofer. Then, before I reinstall the subwoofer, I need to make some revisions to the steel subwoofer bracket I made because it shares a mounting point with the insert (the one with the screw in it in the photo above). I'm almost done with this part! Stay tuned...
Well, the first full-size print was a bust. Couldn't separate the support from the base part, lost patience, and it broke in the process. I didn't use any of the support material that breaks free easily and should have. I'm going to do that with the next print, but I have to dry a new roll of filament, first, so I won't be starting it until tomorrow evening.
I'm using PETG, and the RH was at 34% when I did some test prints this evening. I'm not in a hurry, so drying isn't a big deal. I did have a stringing problem with a different color PETG that I didn't dry, which is why I'm being cautious. It took a lot of filament to print this thing, and I don't want to waste another print.
Great work! Excited seeing you (as a detailed designer) get into the 3D printing game!
Not to nit-pick, just a thought. You look to have room; have you thought to slide that remote forward some? I just see the lid-open restricting the elbow to get in there and manipulate some of the controls.
Not that you'd be in there all the time, just a thought to avoid needing to cross-body your arms or chicken-wing to reach all the buttons/switches on the remote.
You look to have 1/2" or more maybe - but that's a guess without seeing a full 360 of what all is underneath.
Good eye, FarFire70! Yes, there is about 3/4" of room to slide it forward, but I don't know if that would make a significant difference. The lid opens plenty far (see pic below), and if it is a problem, I can pop the remote out and extend the cord to hold it in my hand. Also, since it's the control for an underwhelming subwoofer, I don't anticipate adjusting it very often.
Well, fellers, I'm neither a songwriter, nor a singer, but this morning, I'm singin' the "Bambu 3D Printin' Blues." 
After a 30 hour full-sized test print that ended about noon yesterday, I got home from work last night with a healthy level of excitement to see the fruits of my labors on this center console insert design. It easily removed from the build plate, but once again, I can't remove the darned supports from the base part, so it's another $20 roll of PETG HF gone (for those counting, I'm into my third roll of PETG HF trying to print a test-fit part), and nothing to show for it.
I'm going to salvage this one by carefully cutting off the supports with my body saw and fitting it up for a final check. But I'm miffed that the support filament I used at the interfaces didn't work. It's fused just like the base material and strong as the PETG!
I've got a few ideas to fix this, and another forum member with more Bambu experience than me has offered to share his Bambu wisdom with me, and I'll be reaching out to him to take advantage of the offer. I'm not sure if he wants to be publicly acknowledged, but thanks, friend - you know who you are!
You gotta love this forum! Stay tuned...
After a 30 hour full-sized test print that ended about noon yesterday, I got home from work last night with a healthy level of excitement to see the fruits of my labors on this center console insert design. It easily removed from the build plate, but once again, I can't remove the darned supports from the base part, so it's another $20 roll of PETG HF gone (for those counting, I'm into my third roll of PETG HF trying to print a test-fit part), and nothing to show for it.
I'm going to salvage this one by carefully cutting off the supports with my body saw and fitting it up for a final check. But I'm miffed that the support filament I used at the interfaces didn't work. It's fused just like the base material and strong as the PETG!
I've got a few ideas to fix this, and another forum member with more Bambu experience than me has offered to share his Bambu wisdom with me, and I'll be reaching out to him to take advantage of the offer. I'm not sure if he wants to be publicly acknowledged, but thanks, friend - you know who you are!
You gotta love this forum! Stay tuned...
Well, fellers, I'm neither a songwriter, nor a singer, but this morning, I'm singin' the "Bambu 3D Printin' Blues."
After a 30 hour full-sized test print that ended about noon yesterday, I got home from work last night with a healthy level of excitement to see the fruits of my labors on this center console insert design. It easily removed from the build plate, but once again, I can't remove the darned supports from the base part, so it's another $20 roll of PETG HF gone (for those counting, I'm into my third roll of PETG HF trying to print a test-fit part), and nothing to show for it.
I'm going to salvage this one by carefully cutting off the supports with my body saw and fitting it up for a final check. But I'm miffed that the support filament I used at the interfaces didn't work. It's fused just like the base material and strong as the PETG!
I've got a few ideas to fix this, and another forum member with more Bambu experience than me has offered to share his Bambu wisdom with me, and I'll be reaching out to him to take advantage of the offer. I'm not sure if he wants to be publicly acknowledged, but thanks, friend - you know who you are!
You gotta love this forum! Stay tuned...
Any pics, Scott?
I haven't printed with supports yet but I thought it was intended/expected that you had to go around and cut them all off?
Well, fellers, I'm neither a songwriter, nor a singer, but this morning, I'm singin' the "Bambu 3D Printin' Blues."
After a 30 hour full-sized test print that ended about noon yesterday, I got home from work last night with a healthy level of excitement to see the fruits of my labors on this center console insert design. It easily removed from the build plate, but once again, I can't remove the darned supports from the base part, so it's another $20 roll of PETG HF gone (for those counting, I'm into my third roll of PETG HF trying to print a test-fit part), and nothing to show for it.
I'm going to salvage this one by carefully cutting off the supports with my body saw and fitting it up for a final check. But I'm miffed that the support filament I used at the interfaces didn't work. It's fused just like the base material and strong as the PETG!
I've got a few ideas to fix this, and another forum member with more Bambu experience than me has offered to share his Bambu wisdom with me, and I'll be reaching out to him to take advantage of the offer. I'm not sure if he wants to be publicly acknowledged, but thanks, friend - you know who you are!
You gotta love this forum! Stay tuned...
I've never tried the actual support material. I've made several PETG HF parts using the same PETG HF as support and never had any issue with it separating.
No, but I can take one and add it later. Probably tomorrow. Full day today, followed by a Christmas party.
If done right, they easily break off. In my case with this print, they are SOLIDLY attached.
Well that tells me it's not the filament, then. It's this goofy model. I had a few things to try, and the other member has some, too. I'll tackle it this weekend.
Here are pics. The white is the support filament that is supposed to easily separate from the black base material:
Well, fellers, I'm neither a songwriter, nor a singer, but this morning, I'm singin' the "Bambu 3D Printin' Blues."
After a 30 hour full-sized test print that ended about noon yesterday, I got home from work last night with a healthy level of excitement to see the fruits of my labors on this center console insert design. It easily removed from the build plate, but once again, I can't remove the darned supports from the base part, so it's another $20 roll of PETG HF gone (for those counting, I'm into my third roll of PETG HF trying to print a test-fit part), and nothing to show for it.
I'm going to salvage this one by carefully cutting off the supports with my body saw and fitting it up for a final check. But I'm miffed that the support filament I used at the interfaces didn't work. It's fused just like the base material and strong as the PETG!
I've got a few ideas to fix this, and another forum member with more Bambu experience than me has offered to share his Bambu wisdom with me, and I'll be reaching out to him to take advantage of the offer. I'm not sure if he wants to be publicly acknowledged, but thanks, friend - you know who you are!
You gotta love this forum! Stay tuned...
This is very surprising. I've never had an issue like this with the Bambu PETG HF.
The only thing I've had come close was where that last later between the trees and the 'keep' surface pulled a couple strands of the 'keep' material when it came off. You seem to have the opposite that it won't release.
Same. I never go intricate with my settings either.
———
Here's a model that I pulled off the printer about 20 minutes ago. Bambu X1C printers with the textured PEI plate (no other adhesives, glues, etc - just the plate as it came from Bambu, after a wash with soap & water).
5 minutes with a mini needle nose pliers
Edges will clean up more when I touch them up with a razor blade.
It's a wall-mounted 3" cut-off wheel holder for blades for my new M12 tool - so it has a 10* cant to it. But I wanted the shaft to print straight for the discs to slip on/off smooth.
My settings:
My only other change to the default settings is changing to Gyroid infill pattern. Everything else is default.
Just wanted to share that PETG HF supports can come off very clean and easy.
——
I recommend trying the above settings - and don't print the entire box. Cut down your model in CAD to an inch or so below and 0-5-1 inches above the overhangs. Then print.
That way you can isolate and test before burning through more filament rolls.
Also - is the white supposed to be one of those 'release' materials? If so, maybe try a run like I mentioned above with all PETG-HF and see how it comes out.
Already done did that (see Post #801). This was the final test print, and I needed the whole thing because I need to confirm that it clears the step slider controller at the bottom of the console.
Not just supposed to be - it is one of the release materials. It's not so releasey.
Already done did that, too. See Post #823. That one was fused solid.
I did manage to get most of it off tonight, and it'll suffice for a test fit, but this is not what I would consider a quality print:
Already done did that (see Post #801). This was the final test print, and I needed the whole thing because I need to confirm that it clears the step slider controller at the bottom of the console.
Not just supposed to be - it is one of the release materials. It's not so releasey.
Already done did that, too. See Post #823. That one was fused solid.
I did manage to get most of it off tonight, and it'll suffice for a test fit, but this is not what I would consider a quality print:
View attachment 661427
That is pretty representative of the scarring left from support. Unless you want to sand it back smooth, you’ll probably not get any better. Not with a consumer grade printer, anyway.
I have an old Stratasys at my shop that uses a corn starch based support material. You finish the print and post processing is dunking it in a highly alkaline, heated bath to dissolve the support, leaving a pristine model.
That was a 30,000 dollar printer 10 years ago and it’s too expressive to run and maintain anymore. 1500 dollar print heads that need to be replaced every 1500 hours and proprietary filament spools that are 200-300 dollars for about 1.5 KG.
FarFire, do you think that will be strong enough to support the weight of the cutoff discs? The orientation you used for printing relies on the shear strength between layers. That strength is by far the weakest part of a 3D print.
Already done did that (see Post #801). This was the final test print, and I needed the whole thing because I need to confirm that it clears the step slider controller at the bottom of the console.
Not just supposed to be - it is one of the release materials. It's not so releasey.
Already done did that, too. See Post #823. That one was fused solid.
I did manage to get most of it off tonight, and it'll suffice for a test fit, but this is not what I would consider a quality print:
View attachment 661427
Hmm... I did see the test builds but didn't recall this issue of the supports not releasing.
Have you been drying your filaments? I was religious about that at first, but since, I just run them fresh from the bag.
But - with this issue, maybe try running your next roll through the printer's drying cycle.
That release material really isn't releasing. It's not my money - but I'd try a full print without that release material. As I mentioned the part I posted is probably my 15+ part that I've used those settings above on with PETG-HF in mono-color and supports release no problem.
I'm at a loss for what's going on so offering a few idea. Purpose of my post of that recent print was to confirm that the Bambu PETG-HF will/can release supports cleanly.
I get the frustration - Keep at it. 3D printing is a capability of learning. I'd learned a ton since my first print on my first (open air) printer.
Well, that’s both disappointing and odd. I printed some smaller parts using the same base and support filaments, and the support filament cleanly came off the base part and stayed attached to the supports. On this one, the support material is firmly attached to the base part and the supports, with the support itself breaking. So the bond between the support and base filament was stronger than the bond between layers of the base filament.
It's a fair point. They're 3" discs - so not as heavy at a 4-45" (especially when compared as a stack). But I did pick up a 25pk (which I've since misplaced - of course — likely in with all the Christmas gifts I haven't wrapped yet
).I was more thinking of the smoothness of the shaft when orienting - but you make an interesting point that I could have printed it 90* shifted so the layers ran along the shaft.
One of the reason I did go with the Gyroid is that I've liked how it fills internally vs the default grid. When I looked at the layer, the grid in-fill left a very weak looking build.
I'm also hopeful PETG-HF will hold up more in the garage environment (cold/hot cycles of the seasons) - but that only helps so much about your point on the orientation of the layers.
Time will tell. I will be sure to share if it does prove faulty.
Similar threads
