Noise when A/C is on

[staplesofficewar]

Hi All take a listen please. Video starts off with compressor off, then on,off,on, off.

Ac works fine, so not sure its compressor but maybe bearing on pully?

thanks

 

[06GEEP]

Kinda hard to decifer through a phone, but to me it sounds like it needs some pag oil...IMHO.

 

[JKP]

The clutch bearing is turning when the AC is off.

Noise when the AC is on is the compressor as the clutch bearing in not turning.

 

[staplesofficewar]

The clutch bearing is turning when the AC is off.

Noise when the AC is on is the compressor as the clutch bearing in not turning.

that was my thought as well.

 

[staplesofficewar]

Kinda hard to decifer through a phone, but to me it sounds like it needs some pag oil...IMHO.

Here is another video from the side

 

[staplesofficewar]

the PO had work done about a year ago where they replaced the high side AC line and recharged it. Wonder if it lost too much oil. The receipt states - hole was rubbed in the line.

 

[JKP]

You should be able to get a small can of the oil to add to the system.

Look under resources for your FSM, see what weight oil you need, then see if you can find a can like this in the correct weight.

 

[staplesofficewar]

pag46 it is. Ill add it to my rock auto order for belt, tensioner, idler, fan clutch. Will report back to not let other generations hanging

 

[Renegade TJ]

You should be able to get a small can of the oil to add to the system.

Look under resources for your FSM, see what weight oil you need, then see if you can find a can like this in the correct weight.

View attachment 651269

Been working on and repairing mobile AC systems for awhile and that compressor, it's not if but when. More oil in the system might quiet it a little but the damage is done. Change the compressor soon before it locks up or grenades. Cleaning/flushing the system will be easier. Or just replace the entire AC system, easy to get to (except the evaporator) and relatively cheap.

 

[staplesofficewar]

Been working on and repairing mobile AC systems for awhile and that compressor, it's not if but when. More oil in the system might quiet it a little but the damage is done. Change the compressor soon before it locks up or grenades. Cleaning/flushing the system will be easier. Or just replace the entire AC system, easy to get to (except the evaporator) and relatively cheap.

That's the type of input I was looking for. I need to swap the heater core, so the evap was going to be done as well. Pepboys will evac system for $50. If I have the system down, and changing evap - if the compressor is toast, Id rather do it all now vs multiple steps.

Is there a good aftermarket compressor I should be looking at? Prefer rock auto.

Ill still try to oil and report back - I suppose if It goes totally silent it doesn't change diagnosis?

I did remove the serp belt and the bearing pully is OK - so unless there is something grinding / rattling in the clutch assembly, it would have to be the pump?

 

[Renegade TJ]

That's the type of input I was looking for. I need to swap the heater core, so the evap was going to be done as well. Pepboys will evac system for $50. If I have the system down, and changing evap - if the compressor is toast, Id rather do it all now vs multiple steps.

Is there a good aftermarket compressor I should be looking at? Prefer rock auto.

Ill still try to oil and report back - I suppose if It goes totally silent it doesn't change diagnosis?

I did remove the serp belt and the bearing pully is OK - so unless there is something grinding / rattling in the clutch assembly, it would have to be the pump?

I just put this in

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...itioning,a/c+compressor+&+component+kit,17507

I was skeptical for that price, but i got it and it is a nice Japanese compressor. Like you, I needed to do the disconnected heater core, so I did everything at the same time, lines too.

Yes, definitely the pump. Might be the bearings or the pump itself. Even after all this time I cant tell which one, I just know it's on borrowed time.

 

[staplesofficewar]

I just put this in

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...itioning,a/c+compressor+&+component+kit,17507

I was skeptical for that price, but i got it and it is a nice Japanese compressor. Like you, I needed to do the disconnected heater core, so I did everything at the same time, lines too.

Yes, definitely the pump. Might be the bearings or the pump itself. Even after all this time I cant tell which one, I just know it's on borrowed time.

it takes me to a general tab with all them. Which one is it?

 

[Renegade TJ]

it takes me to a general tab with all them. Which one is it?

View attachment 651423

9622945A
3rd from the bottom, nippondenso

 

[staplesofficewar]

that seems like a great price. I just saw it has all but hoses and evap!

 

[staplesofficewar]

@Renegade TJ Update: Got the oil - 1 ounce and added it to the system, but I realized that it wasn't cycling the compressor due to defrost, but it would come on, low side would drop to about 25, then kick off, it would do this continuously. Added the oil and one ounce of R134A that's in the can, then a few more ounces from a can I can have to get it to about 30PSI on low and 155 on high and it stopped cycling. But I wouldn't get the compressor to stay engaged when revving to 1500 rpm. It would kick back off. So maybe a metering orifice stoppage there? The compressor does quiet down a lot after it runs for 15-20 seconds, but gets loud again every time it cycles. Oh yea and there is a leak someplace on the high pressure side. I can hear it hissing directly after I shut off the engine and the high pressure equalizes. Something from the inlet/outlet area of the condensing coil....fun.

 

[Renegade TJ]

@Renegade TJ Update: Got the oil - 1 ounce and added it to the system, but I realized that it wasn't cycling the compressor due to defrost, but it would come on, low side would drop to about 25, then kick off, it would do this continuously. Added the oil and one ounce of R134A that's in the can, then a few more ounces from a can I can have to get it to about 30PSI on low and 155 on high and it stopped cycling. But I wouldn't get the compressor to stay engaged when revving to 1500 rpm. It would kick back off. So maybe a metering orifice stoppage there? The compressor does quiet down a lot after it runs for 15-20 seconds, but gets loud again every time it cycles. Oh yea and there is a leak someplace on the high pressure side. I can hear it hissing directly after I shut off the engine and the high pressure equalizes. Something from the inlet/outlet area of the condensing coil....fun.

Well, those preasures and compressor cycling times sound like they could be correct at 60 degrees ambient temperature. Check the temperature coming out of the vents.

 

[staplesofficewar]

II can see it that being the issue now with temps in garage around 60F - cycling with no heat load. But earlier, it would very rapidly drop the low pressure side to the point where I think it was tripping on low refrigerant (run for 8-10 sec, then off 8-10 sec, etc). I put a space heater at the vent and it will stop cycling - and getting about 38F from the vent (unreliable infrared, but closed i am sure).

I also don't think I have a leak anymore - I am sure now what I was hearing was the hiss of the fluid moving over the orifice tube as it equilized. Also, as the system sets after running, the pressure increases from 40PSI equilized at shutdown to 65PSI equalized after it warms up.

It makes sense to disengage the compressor when I rev due to low heat load on the evap and the increased high pressure, so I think that is probably OK too.

So it appears to be working more consistent to expectations now with enough R134A in it, but the compressor rattles a bit on start up but gets much quieter after about 6-8 seconds - but it does this every time it cycles - regardless of the amount of time it has been since the last cycle.

So still think the compressor is headed for failure? I have some more videos I'll upload after dinner tonight.

 

[Renegade TJ]

Yep, now with some added refrigerant and oil seems to be working better.

I bought Dodge truck In 1998 with a howling rear end. I got a smoking deal on it and it came with a new ring and pinion in a box. I sold the truck 100k miles and 5 years later with the same howling rear end and a new ring and pinion in a box.

Never know, it will work until it doesn't. I myself would not invest money and time doing a heater core without the condensor, and to me that means replacing a noisy compressor.

 

[staplesofficewar]

Here is one showing initial engage and disengaged. Engages right as video starts.

Here are two more with rev

Temp check (space heater running)

and the hiss i thought was a leak. You can hear my oil draining back too. The microphone is pretty sensitive.

Pressures after warming back up:

I think, at this point, I will still evac the system and change the dryer and evap coil. If/when the compressor gives up ( this is not a daily driver and use it when nice, camping, weekends, etc) ill replace that, the lines, and condensor - flushing the evap for good measure.

Thanks for taking the time to look at all these!