Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Wrangler TJ EV Conversion

So it begins.

We are converting 40 City TJs to all EV.

Our first one is a 2003 Jeep TJ. About 2/3 done but wanted to share were we are.

So much has been done already, I know I should have posted more and more and more but, it's hard when the team is VERY small.

I'll jump in where we are right now.

The Back Battery Box is in and fully finished. It looks like this when out of the Jeep:
View attachment 649359

It's designed to fit into the exact location of the stock gas tank. There are only three designs we do, CJ, YJ and not the TJ version.

This is mounted using existing bumper bolt locations plus 4 added 5/16" RivNuts into the existing gas tank cross member under the Jeep.

From the back, this is all you'd see:
View attachment 649361

At the moment, we're working on the Front Battery Box and the Tech Box.

The Tech Box is divided into two parts; the HV-JB and the LV-JB.

NOTES:
- HV-JB = High Voltage Junction Box (144v nominal)
- LV-JB = Low Voltage (12v) Junction Box

Here's a snap with the fender on to work out clearances and stuff:
View attachment 649363

The cardboard part is the Tech Box and the thing next to it is the Front Battery Box.

My design process is pretty straight forward;
- Cardboard and blue painters tape
- Plywood (if necessary or I have to build stuff that attaches to it)
- Aluminum

I'm under the gun with the City so I'm moving as fast as I can to get this first one done and out the door.

Okay, I'm sure this is enough to wet your appetite, ask anything but if it's insulting, I've learned, it's better to just ignore.

- Patrick

I fix large EVs during the week and work on TJs over the weekend. Feel free to share more technical details, Atleast I’ll understand what you’re talking about.
 
Guessing mail delivery, or parks and rec. Interesting choice to keep a manual, I would've thought there was even less manual drivers than TJ's in LA lol

No, you read that wrong, they are all automatics.

The CJ-7 is 4 speed T186, fully functional.

THAT being said, the way we figured it out, you don't need a clutch for the manual transmissions either. There's a demo video on our YT page.

- Patrick
 
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I fix large EVs during the week and work on TJs over the weekend. Feel free to share more technical details, Atleast I’ll understand what you’re talking about.

- 6.6kW OBC Combo unit (with DC/DC charger)
- Wilwood EPB so I have to do drum to disc conversions on all of them (insert bad word HERE).
- Volvo P/S unit (I recommend this to ALL Jeep owners, ICE or EV, it's 1,000% better than anything stock.)
- Probably leave the P/B with an added vacuum pump (I guess, might bump up to iBooster, maybe)

- Patrick
 
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Well, I posted that gif because I thought you would've got roasted alive by the members - only a little bit glad to see that wasn't the case😉

Have you heard of Edison motors?

No, that gif wasn't a problem. Trust me, I've seen my share of attack gif's and that wasn't one of them. Did something happen on this site to thankfully stifel some of the more hard core sentiment toward alternate anything then fuels?

Inquiring minds would love to know....

Re: Edison Motors - Hell's yes, those guys are amazing. I love everything about how they evolved. I'm really rooting for them.

- Patrick
 
What's going to happen with all the old engines, parts and running gear?

Don't worry, they're all going to the bunny ranch, you know, to be with the rest of the, whatevers...

We have a single service garage that does all our de-ICEing. He's got a fixed price and give us back / credits us for whatever he sells. We pass that back to the customer.
 
I mocked up building an aluminum skid pan with two Netgain 120 motors mounted to approximate existing driveshaft locations. That would give you 120 hp in rear (or front) wheel mode and 240 in 4wd and eliminate the ICE, transmission and transfer case.

I'm currently working on adapting the iBooster to my 97. Only thing I need to fab up is an adapter for the push rod and decide if I'm drilling out my firewall or building an adapter plate.

Documented my iBooster work here for reference...


Nice work and I'm interested if you're planning on building kits. I have no experience in the HV LV integration...but plenty of fab experience... would love an electric TJ.

-Mac
 
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I mocked up building an aluminum skid pan with two Netgain 120 motors mounted to approximate existing driveshaft locations. That would give you 120 hp in rear (or front) wheel mode and 240 in 4wd and eliminate the ICE, transmission and transfer case.

I'm currently working on adapting the iBooster to my 97. Only thing I need to fab up is an adapter for the push rod and decide if I'm drilling out my firewall or building an adapter plate.

Documented my iBooster work here for reference...


Nice work and I'm interested if you're planning on building kits. I have no experience in the HV LV integration...but plenty of fab experience... would love an electric TJ.

-Mac

Hay, can you repost the embedded link to the iBooster - I'd love to see your progress!

And, yes, about kits.

That's the entire business plan, kits.

The plan is to build a handful of CJs, TJs and YJs with the exclusive purpose of arriving at a consumer ready to bolt-in kits. The commonality of the modular parts makes this work well in Jeepdom. I know them. I understand them and I've always had at least one since I could drive at 15 years old.

We take customers Jeeps that want to convert as well, the only problem being that we are now focusing on our one big client, the City. I need to get this one done and get the next handful or so from them and service customers that are in line for around Feb / March.

It's kits and retail customers dropping off their Jeep and using the same kits.

- Patrick
 
I mocked up building an aluminum skid pan with two Netgain 120 motors mounted to approximate existing driveshaft locations. That would give you 120 hp in rear (or front) wheel mode and 240 in 4wd and eliminate the ICE, transmission and transfer case.


-Mac

A guy named Bill Bayer on YT did something similar a few years back but with the drive unit out of a wrecked Model S.
 
Hay, can you repost the embedded link to the iBooster - I'd love to see your progress!

And, yes, about kits.

That's the entire business plan, kits.

The plan is to build a handful of CJs, TJs and YJs with the exclusive purpose of arriving at a consumer ready to bolt-in kits. The commonality of the modular parts makes this work well in Jeepdom. I know them. I understand them and I've always had at least one since I could drive at 15 years old.

We take customers Jeeps that want to convert as well, the only problem being that we are now focusing on our one big client, the City. I need to get this one done and get the next handful or so from them and service customers that are in line for around Feb / March.

It's kits and retail customers dropping off their Jeep and using the same kits.

- Patrick

estimated price range?
 
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I mocked up building an aluminum skid pan with two Netgain 120 motors mounted to approximate existing driveshaft locations. That would give you 120 hp in rear (or front) wheel mode and 240 in 4wd and eliminate the ICE, transmission and transfer case.

I'm currently working on adapting the iBooster to my 97. Only thing I need to fab up is an adapter for the push rod and decide if I'm drilling out my firewall or building an adapter plate.

Documented my iBooster work here for reference...


Nice work and I'm interested if you're planning on building kits. I have no experience in the HV LV integration...but plenty of fab experience... would love an electric TJ.

-Mac

I think you'll want low range. Electric motors have a wider operating range, enough that you can get rid of the transmission. But not necessarily enough to crawl effectively and go on the highway. Heck, most people who use the type motor you listed keep the transmission. With that motor I'd go the same route as @4x4 EVC and use 1 motor with the factory tranny+tcase.

The electric g-wagon has 1 motor per wheel, AND a 2.93:1 low range.
 
estimated price range?

Range is around 110 city / off-road and about 85ish highway.

Charge time if fully dead (if you know EVs, you never go 'empty', you charge all the time, it's a different mindset for gas station vs charge station decisions), it would take about 6+ hrs. using the OBC (On Board Charger) that is rated at 6.6kW (1.5kW for the DC/DC - the alternator part for the 12v battery)j. You can also charge from a genny if on the trail for or camping.

Pricing for a TJ starts around $45k and falling slightly as Tesla batteries continue to get cheaper and cheaper. YJ's are about $6k cheapter and CJ's start around $27k.

Turn around time is around 3 months.

In comparison, if you wanted your Defender all EV, the price starts around $80k (and UP!!!) and takes around 18 months to 2 years.

We are trying to be JUST a repower company, not a fancy restomod company. We don't care if you want your Jeep seats reupholstered in leather gathered from the gloves of 50 little league teams all stitched together (yep, a real request one of my favorite peer builders told me a customer asked for!).

Nope, we just want to do the repower.

- Patrick
 
I think you'll want low range. Electric motors have a wider operating range, enough that you can get rid of the transmission. But not necessarily enough to crawl effectively and go on the highway. Heck, most people who use the type motor you listed keep the transmission. With that motor I'd go the same route as @4x4 EVC and use 1 motor with the factory tranny+tcase.

The electric g-wagon has 1 motor per wheel, AND a 2.93:1 low range.

You are 100% correct.

Totally agree (obviously), the Tesla drive unit route is a dead end in so many ways, not going to expand on it here.
 
I think there would be some interest if you could expand on the details of this swap.

The Volvo P/S unit is available on ebay for around $300. It's almost plug and play. Did I mention it's made by Fo-Mo-Co, they've had a very long relationship apparently, who knew...

Anyway, yes, you need to braze the stock nuckly plumbing to two new connectors for the pump, add a 60amp fuse and a 1 wire Enable switch that can be attached to a relay to your key-ON switch. Honestly, it'll take you longer to rig up the mounting bracket and remove all the stock P/S stuff on the motor then it will to hook the 'new' P/S pump up.

The reason it's such a good swap candidate is it's a self contained unit - the pump and reservoir are in the same unit. You get an immediate ~12-18% hp added back to the ICE motor from the vane pump being removed.

Here's one that's on our demo CJ:
1760634864260.png


Yes, we love our label maker....

Okay, back to work, those Jeeps won't wire themselves!

- Patrick
 
The Volvo P/S unit is available on ebay for around $300. It's almost plug and play. Did I mention it's made by Fo-Mo-Co, they've had a very long relationship apparently, who knew...

Anyway, yes, you need to braze the stock nuckly plumbing to two new connectors for the pump, add a 60amp fuse and a 1 wire Enable switch that can be attached to a relay to your key-ON switch. Honestly, it'll take you longer to rig up the mounting bracket and remove all the stock P/S stuff on the motor then it will to hook the 'new' P/S pump up.

The reason it's such a good swap candidate is it's a self contained unit - the pump and reservoir are in the same unit. You get an immediate ~12-18% hp added back to the ICE motor from the vane pump being removed.

Here's one that's on our demo CJ:
View attachment 649602

Yes, we love our label maker....

Okay, back to work, those Jeeps won't wire themselves!

- Patrick

What models and year range are you getting them from?

I wonder what their operating pressure is
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator