+.004" under inner race . Sorry about the drive side pattern I was struggling to get that to look good but you should get the idea. Backlash is at .008
Dana 44 4.10 gear pattern check
- Thread starter 68lemans462
- Start date
Yeah that takes it too deep. If you were to remove the shin between the pinion head and bearing, would you be able to get a combination that would allow the 2 thou change if they were all under the inner race instead? I'm thinking that's what needs to happen right now.
I also noticed that your dial indicator plunger is at the edge and at an angle. Move to the the drive side of the tooth and get it as perpendicular as possible and on the flat side of the tooth, not the edge like that.
I appreciate your guidance and attention to detail. Thanks. How critical is this this last thou or 2? My biggest challenge is that I cannot find shims under .010.... Let alone .001 increments.
Are the last 2 patterns RUNN-ABBLE? How critical is it to get this PERFECT?
Last edited:
You won't find shims in 1 thou. They usually come in 3, 5, 10, 12, 15, 20, and 30. You have to move shims around to get a 1 thou change. So, to go from a 12 to 13 you would simply remove the 12 and use a 10 and a 3.
Runnable? I can't say that for sure, but I didn't think so. I haven't seen a consistent pattern yet that makes me feel good.
If you look at this pattern, it's all over the place IMHO. I don't know if it's the Yukon gears or the way you're running your pattern. The dial indicator usage makes me suspect of your backlash.
Close enough is for horseshoes and hand grenades. If you only get close with gears, the likelihood of using the word grenade again increases greatly. Gears and grenade are not words you want to see in the same sentence.
My .02
Is a slinger style shim correct for a Dana 44? I have to imagine it’s stock since it’s specifically a 0.062” slinger, but the factory manuals all show race shims….I haven’t been inside a stock 44 from 97-02 or 03-06 so I don’t know what the real world experience is, but the FSM makes me question what I’m seeing here.
I know the D30s all use them, and none of the D35s do. Not sure about 44.
Regardless, something is weird with how little pinion shim it’s needing. Maybe just a Yukon problem I guess.
I know the D30s all use them, and none of the D35s do. Not sure about 44.
Regardless, something is weird with how little pinion shim it’s needing. Maybe just a Yukon problem I guess.
11s
This is a good question. Do I need that slinger at all, or should I just remove it and find the proper shim combination? I'm using Motive gears.
This is a good question. Do I need that slinger at all, or should I just remove it and find the proper shim combination? I'm using Motive gears.
Your post here says the axle is from ‘01, but you had another thread where you said ‘02. They started putting the shim where you have it as a slinger in 2002 according to the factory info, so I am assuming you have an ‘02 axle and the shim is normal. I didn’t find this info until after I posted last night and also found your other thread saying it’s from ‘02 as well.
If the slinger is there, I’d prefer to keep it. But the fact that you were using the thinner regear slinger and still were too deep on the pinion makes me question everything about this. I don’t understand why Yukon’s pinion would be so much deeper to begin with.
Again, this isnt a yukon pinion. I'm unsure if the axle is a 2001 or 2002, it is close to those dates and it shouldnt make a difference.
I dug through my stash and surprisingly found some shims the same size from a different rear end I setup that look like they will work. I think I'll pull the slinger and keep going. Looks like I can get a couple thousandths out from where I'm at with these shims.
My bad, I missed the motive clarification. 01 FSM points to shims behind the race, 02 points to a slinger. That’s why I ask about years. Functionally I don’t think it matters either way. Like I said the Dana 35 rear doesn’t have them, so I don’t see why a Dana 44 rear would need them either. I just prefer to keep a specific diff built the way it was originally if possible in case there was some hidden difference I was unaware of. If you can get the race shimmed appropriately, I think it should be fine.
I have no problem removing them and putting the shims behind the inner race.
Use your dial indicator in the correct manner.
Get this thing as good as you can unless you want to do it again in the future!
Spent more time on this, thanks for being patient with me and for the suggestions!. I previously had setup bearings for the carrier and the inner race. This morning I also made the inner pinion bearing a setup bearing. After playing with it a bit I realized that the pinion bearing was probably not fully seated resulting in wonky inconsistencies. Also I was not getting consistent readings on the backlash which I have corrected.
I now have the slinger back in and the total shim stack height including the slinger is around .0500. I should have enough shims to dial this in as I found more. Here's the latest pattern.
Spent more time on this, thanks for being patient with me and for the suggestions!. I previously had setup bearings for the carrier and the inner race. This morning I also made the inner pinion bearing a setup bearing. After playing with it a bit I realized that the pinion bearing was probably not fully seated against the slinger resulting in wonky inconsistencies. Also I was not getting consistent readings on the backlash which I have corrected.
I now have the slinger back in and the total shim stack height including the slinger is around .0500. I should have enough shims to dial this in as I found more. Here's the latest pattern. I included 2 pictures of the drive side at different angles.
I now have the slinger back in and the total shim stack height including the slinger is around .0500. I should have enough shims to dial this in as I found more. Here's the latest pattern.
Spent more time on this, thanks for being patient with me and for the suggestions!. I previously had setup bearings for the carrier and the inner race. This morning I also made the inner pinion bearing a setup bearing. After playing with it a bit I realized that the pinion bearing was probably not fully seated against the slinger resulting in wonky inconsistencies. Also I was not getting consistent readings on the backlash which I have corrected.
I now have the slinger back in and the total shim stack height including the slinger is around .0500. I should have enough shims to dial this in as I found more. Here's the latest pattern. I included 2 pictures of the drive side at different angles.
There is no need for carrier setup bearings since the shims go to the outside of the race. I would press on your new bearings and work from there.
Be sure to include your backlash # when posting the new pictures. You're current setup is deep. I would subtract 5 thou and see what it looks like.
Be sure to include your backlash # when posting the new pictures. You're current setup is deep. I would subtract 5 thou and see what it looks like.
Aren't carrier shims under the bearings on 97-02? Pretty sure however they are has to be maintained due carrier fitment in the housing? what I mean by that is that usually if you're shimming outside the carrier, you have a thick shim per side, and if you're shimmed under the bearing, usually just a stack of a few thin shims....I'd think whatever he's got needs to be continued and I think 97-02 were all inside the carrier on D44s.
Took .005 out of pinion. Backlash is at 008 and was 008 on the last pattern as well
I think that's it for these gears. I'm not 100% in love with it as one side looks a touch deep and the other side looks a touch shallow. But that should work just fine.
Awesome thanks much for your suggestions.
I was able to get this setup the same using the larger OD shims outside of the carrier bearing races.
What should I shoot for with pinion preload? I've got it at about 17 right now.
Last edited:
Similar threads
