Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Armor and tire carrier questions / input

bbaldwin237

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Looking for some input on how to go about addressing armor and spare tire carrier. I just added 35s and will be on the stock carrier for now. My initial plan was to add a Morryde and call it good. But, it gets messy.

I've decided I want 4" Genright aluminum fenders. However, my GR sliders are ww2ww. So if I want the fenders to sit flush to the body (which of course I do), I need to add corner armor, which is a good idea anyway. That means I would add GR aluminum corner armor. For HD hinges I'm look at the HD hinges from @Jezza or the Morryde HD hinges. I understand that I wouldn't need the full Morryde kit with the backing plate if I'm using corner armor as that provides the strength. This would then put the tub side of the hinges mounted 3/16" further out than the tailgate side of the hinges. That then leads me to, do I need the Morryde tailgate brace to space the hinges out or do I just go with aluminum tailgate armor? If I go tailgate armor, then you also want to fill the bottom gap with a fill plate. Effectively covering all of my paint except the hood, doors, and front portion of the tub. And even then, during summer I plan to also add aluminum trail doors.

It just feels like a slippery slope so I want to make sure I'm thinking this through properly. The downside is that I like the color of my Jeep but don't think I want to do color matched armor so that it is more affordable and not getting dinged up needing touch up. But I'm not opposed to maybe running it raw for now and be painted later. It's a Land Rover color, so the only spray can paint I can find to color match is fairly expensive ($37/can). Armor is pretty large areas so I don't trust that I could make it look good with spray cans, meaning it would have to go to a body shop.

Am I going down an armor rabbit hole? Should I just live with a gap behind the bottom of the rear flare (don't want that)? Can I avoid the tailgate armor? Or do I just fire the parts cannon, armor everything, and say goodbye to the blue?
 
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I did what you're thinking about, I have Genright corner armor and the Morryde hinges. I had mine painted to match and used the corner armor per Blains suggestion as the support for the hinge mount. I did also use the support bracket that mounts to the roll bar inside also. Since I do not have any armor attached to the tailgate I used the large tailgate steel plate and that spaced it out enough to make everything work great.

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I did what you're thinking about, I have Genright corner armor and the Morryde hinges. I had mine painted to match and used the corner armor per Blains suggestion as the support for the hinge mount. I did also use the support bracket that mounts to the roll bar inside also. Since I do not have any armor attached to the tailgate I used the large tailgate steel plate and that spaced it out enough to make everything work great.

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I've always loved yours and it looks good with the color matched. I wonder if it would look odd if I had raw aluminum armor and then a blue tailgate and black support frame? Just Empty Every Pocket right? Also, I don't think theirs much of a price difference between the full kit and HD hinges with a tailgate skin, maybe $100 or so.
 
I'd strongly suggest looking at @Fluxor 's aluminum hinges.

I also think you want the bar under the tailgate.

I need armor ASAP...not because I'm hitting things on the side...my driver's side torque box is collapsing from all the bumper impacts.

IMG20250803145353.jpg


-Mac
 
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Moryde/ExoGate carrier on corner armor. The gate reenforcement is necessary to match the plane of the corner armor. Otherwise, the gate will not sit flat across the face in the opening. I never cared for the abrupt shift from corner to tailgate.
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The valance cover visually ties the corners together.
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Then I ruined the gate and carrier.
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And now the entire rear is aluminum with a bed mounted tire carrier currently in the works.
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I'd strongly suggest looking at @Fluxor 's aluminum hinges.

I also think you want the bar under the tailgate.

I need armor ASAP...not because I'm hitting things on the side...my driver's side torque box is collapsing from all the bumper impacts.

View attachment 634567

-Mac
I was looking at the Flux hinges as well, but you also have to use his tire carrier, which gets even more expensive. That's why I liked Jezza's HD hinges, they fit the stock footprint.

I remember when we were talking about that collapsed area, which definitely is a benefit of just going full rear armor on everything.

Moryde/ExoGate carrier on corner armor. The gate reenforcement is necessary to match the plane of the corner armor. Otherwise, the gate will not sit flat across the face in the opening. I never cared for the abrupt shift from corner to tailgate.
View attachment 634564

The valance cover visually ties the corners together.
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Then I ruined the gate and carrier.
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And now the entire rear is aluminum with a bed mounted tire carrier currently in the works.
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Yea, I figured that just going full armor is probably my best overall. I just wanted to get so input from those that have been down this path to avoid spending twice. I don't want to do the Morryde just to decide I don't like it and switching to the tailgate skin. I need to stick with the spare in the factory location due to needing the back seat.

I will most likely stick with GR for the armor because it will match my sliders and they don't have the cutouts for hinges like some others. It looks like the Savvy corners come with the fill panel, but the description doesn't really say, just shows it in the picture. I just don't know if they would match my sliders or if the lower holes would interfere with adding the GR flares. I also have had good experience talking with Tony and dealing with them purchasing in the past.
 
Mine just have four bolt holes for the factory hinge pattern. No hinge cutouts.

I mean the panel below the tailgate. It shows it in the photos, but doesn't mention it in the description (there is no description). I also don't see it listed separately on their site, but we all know that means nothing with them. The Savvy's have a few more attachments points, but with a drill and rivnut tool it's not too difficult to add more to the GRs if you wanted.
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I'd strongly suggest looking at @Fluxor 's aluminum hinges.

I also think you want the bar under the tailgate.

I need armor ASAP...not because I'm hitting things on the side...my driver's side torque box is collapsing from all the bumper impacts.

View attachment 634567

-Mac

Nothing against Flexor's hinges but Jezza does offer nice hinges also.

https://texasjeepproducts.com/products/jeep-wrangler-tailgate-hinge-lightweight

https://texasjeepproducts.com/produ...gler-tj-lj-billet-aluminum-tailgate-hinge-kit
 
I mean the panel below the tailgate. It shows it in the photos, but doesn't mention it in the description (there is no description). I also don't see it listed separately on their site, but we all know that means nothing with them. The Savvy's have a few more attachments points, but with a drill and rivnut tool it's not too difficult to add more to the GRs if you wanted.
View attachment 634575View attachment 634576

To my knowledge, Savvy never offered the valance cover. I made mine. And it is wider than the CAD drawing so it attaches to the corners.

My only personal complaint about the Savvy corners are unused holes for the factory flares and the license plate mount. But we never got another option unless the uncut corners only had mounting holes.
 
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Looking for some input on how to go about addressing armor and spare tire carrier. I just added 35s and will be on the stock carrier for now. My initial plan was to add a Morryde and call it good. But, it gets messy.

I've decided I want 4" Genright aluminum fenders. However, my GR sliders are ww2ww. So if I want the fenders to sit flush to the body (which of course I do), I need to add corner armor, which is a good idea anyway. That means I would add GR aluminum corner armor. For HD hinges I'm look at the HD hinges from @Jezza or the Morryde HD hinges. I understand that I wouldn't need the full Morryde kit with the backing plate if I'm using corner armor as that provides the strength. This would then put the tub side of the hinges mounted 3/16" further out than the tailgate side of the hinges. That then leads me to, do I need the Morryde tailgate brace to space the hinges out or do I just go with aluminum tailgate armor? If I go tailgate armor, then you also want to fill the bottom gap with a fill plate. Effectively covering all of my paint except the hood, doors, and front portion of the tub. And even then, during summer I plan to also add aluminum trail doors.

It just feels like a slippery slope so I want to make sure I'm thinking this through properly. The downside is that I like the color of my Jeep but don't think I want to do color matched armor so that it is more affordable and not getting dinged up needing touch up. But I'm not opposed to maybe running it raw for now and be painted later. It's a Land Rover color, so the only spray can paint I can find to color match is fairly expensive ($37/can). Armor is pretty large areas so I don't trust that I could make it look good with spray cans, meaning it would have to go to a body shop.

Am I going down an armor rabbit hole? Should I just live with a gap behind the bottom of the rear flare (don't want that)? Can I avoid the tailgate armor? Or do I just fire the parts cannon, armor everything, and say goodbye to the blue?

Whatever you do, you want the corner armor, the tailgate beauty panel, and lower valance to tie into the corner armor and torque boxes for strength.

If you want to paint match then do it. Really it comes down to whether you think the armor finished with shark hide will look good with your tub color.
 
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To my knowledge, Savvy never offered the valance cover. I made mine. And it is wider than the CAD drawing so it attaches to the corners.

My only personal complaint about the Savvy corners are unused holes for the factory flares and the license plate mount. But we never got another option unless the uncut corners only had mounting holes.

Must be something new with the "legacy" items.

Whatever you do, you want the corner armor, the tailgate beauty panel, and lower valance to tie into the corner armor and torque boxes for strength.

If you want to paint match then do it. Really it comes down to whether you think the armor finished with shark hide will look good with your tub color.
I don't think I won't like the aluminum look, but I also like my blue paint. Kind of a six in one, half a dozen in the other type situation I think.
 
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Must be something new with the "legacy" items.


I don't think I won't like the aluminum look, but I also like my blue paint. Kind of a six in one, half a dozen in the other type situation I think.

I learned to paint. I’ve painted everything from the doors back and some of the front fender. Just the hood and grille and part of the front fender to go. LOL

If you damage the armor (which is what it’s there for, to absorb damage and protect the tub) then you have to repair and repaint. I’ve done that before too. LOL

On the new rig I’m not painting the armor, but I am re-finishing it
 
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I learned to paint. I’ve painted everything from the doors back and some of the front fender. Just the hood and grille and part of the front fender to go. LOL

If you damage the armor (which is what it’s there for, to absorb damage and protect the tub) then you have to repair and repaint. I’ve done that before too. LOL

On the new rig I’m not painting the armor, but I am re-finishing it

Yea it would be easier to take it off, knock any big dents out (hopefully not!) and then hit it with a sander and/or scotchbright before reapplying your coating.
 
My current valance project for The Silver Fox.

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How do you like the tool? I've seen several YouTubers I watch use them on rust and scale on steel and they seem to work well. Is there a less aggressive attachment that you like on aluminum?

I have a friend with a 28' all aluminum (no paint at all) offshore boat, that has a really good technique for keeping it looking amazing. Might also pick his brain on what he uses.
 
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How do you like the tool? I've seen several YouTubers I watch use them on rust and scale on steel and they seem to work well. Is there a less aggressive attachment that you like on aluminum?

I have a friend with a 28' all aluminum (no paint at all) offshore boat, that has a really good technique for keeping it looking amazing. Might also pick his brain on what he uses.

You should definitely pick his brain/technique. These are 4” drums. There are removal and finishing drums. You practice and pick what you like for final finish.

The Corner Armor had rust clinging to it and corrosion. I worked it all off, finish, and shark hide to avoid future issues/protect finish. I also fixed the tun by sanding, self etch prime and top coat.

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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts