Fuel line blown off fuel rail

[IrishWake]

Couldn’t find a thread on this particular fitting. Last night after filling up, I lost all power and immediately smelt gasoline. Thankfully I was able to pull off on a side street where I found the rubber hose and its fitting had blown off of the fuel rail and coated the passenger side of the engine bay in fuel. The retainer clip had also popped off somehow. The rubber fuel hose was still attached to the plastic fitting, but it had a little play so I put a hose clamp on it. The plastic fitting seemed to fit back in place, so I reinstalled it and the retainer, and made my way home with as little throttle input as possible.

I’m planning to replace the fitting, but I’m not sure what this style is called. I’ve found quick disconnects (like the tank side uses) and Bundy connectors, but not a fitting like this. I believe the FSM just calls it “Latch Clip Type 1.” Do I need to replace it with the exact type, or would other quick release types work as well?

I also want to make sure that it wasn’t an underlying issue that caused this, or if it was just a degrading fitting. It was probably 100-105F when I was out, and I have a DEI wrap around the fuel rail. I never thought trapping heat in the fuel rail would be an issue but now I’ve had a blown off hose. Any other ideas, or should I just be good with replacing the connector?

 

[macleanflood]

I know Racetronix makes a 5/16 QD adapter so you can add a Shrader valve or fuel gauge to your rail.

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-5-16qdm-5-16-1-8-port/qda-56f56mp

-Mac

 

[IrishWake]

I know Racetronix makes a 5/16 QD adapter so you can add a Shrader valve or fuel gauge to your rail.

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-5-16qdm-5-16-1-8-port/qda-56f56mp

-Mac

Thanks. Is 5/16 > 5/16 the size we need? The 2000 TJ still has the Schrader port on the fuel rail, although that fitting+Schrader is still cheaper than local parts stores want for a single Dorman fitting…

 

[macleanflood]

5/16 QD is what you want.

I used that adapter to add a fuel pressure gauge to my 97...I mentioned it because it gives us the size and fitting used.

I'd probably find a Dorman part to repair it...or just find something in a junkyard.

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

Couldn’t find a thread on this particular fitting. Last night after filling up, I lost all power and immediately smelt gasoline. Thankfully I was able to pull off on a side street where I found the rubber hose and its fitting had blown off of the fuel rail and coated the passenger side of the engine bay in fuel. The retainer clip had also popped off somehow. The rubber fuel hose was still attached to the plastic fitting, but it had a little play so I put a hose clamp on it. The plastic fitting seemed to fit back in place, so I reinstalled it and the retainer, and made my way home with as little throttle input as possible.

View attachment 623792
View attachment 623794

I’m planning to replace the fitting, but I’m not sure what this style is called. I’ve found quick disconnects (like the tank side uses) and Bundy connectors, but not a fitting like this. I believe the FSM just calls it “Latch Clip Type 1.” Do I need to replace it with the exact type, or would other quick release types work as well?

View attachment 623793

I also want to make sure that it wasn’t an underlying issue that caused this, or if it was just a degrading fitting. It was probably 100-105F when I was out, and I have a DEI wrap around the fuel rail. I never thought trapping heat in the fuel rail would be an issue but now I’ve had a blown off hose. Any other ideas, or should I just be good with replacing the connector?

Which part are you calling the plastic fitting?

 

[IrishWake]

Which part are you calling the plastic fitting?

That was a misnomer on my part, I suppose it’s actually metal. I’m referring to the connector between the fuel rail and soft line (push lock I imagine?). I’m not sure the real name besides what the FSM calls it.

 

[mrblaine]

That was a misnomer on my part, I suppose it’s actually metal. I’m referring to the connector between the fuel rail and soft line (push lock I imagine?). I’m not sure the real name besides what the FSM calls it.

So the metal full quick disconnect popped off of the fuel rail? If so, that is a good trick since the metal fingers inside the QD housing are notoriously difficult to get to release even with the correct tool. Check them to see if they are bent the wrong way from someone yanking it loose.

 

[IrishWake]

So the metal full quick disconnect popped off of the fuel rail? If so, that is a good trick since the metal fingers inside the QD housing are notoriously difficult to get to release even with the correct tool. Check them to see if they are bent the wrong way from someone yanking it loose.

Nothing looks particularly out of place for me, but I probably wouldn't know what to look for if it wasn't obviously bent out of place. A little dinged up, but It was disconnected at least once a few years ago.

When it's installed, there's about 1/4-3/8" of longitudinal play, not sure if that is normal or not

 

[mrblaine]

Nothing looks particularly out of place for me, but I probably wouldn't know what to look for if it wasn't obviously bent out of place. A little dinged up, but It was disconnected at least once a few years ago.

When it's installed, there's about 1/4-3/8" of longitudinal play, not sure if that is normal or not
View attachment 624476
View attachment 624475

What does the flange on the other side at the fuel rail look like? You can also reach in there with a pick and bend those four tabs inward a little bit to help it hold better. The play is reasonable. It is equal to the distance between the ends of the tabs and the base of the fitting inside less the width of the retaining ring on the fuel fitting. If they make it too tight, the tabs can't spread outward so you can release it.

 

[IrishWake]

What does the flange on the other side at the fuel rail look like? You can also reach in there with a pick and bend those four tabs inward a little bit to help it hold better. The play is reasonable. It is equal to the distance between the ends of the tabs and the base of the fitting inside less the width of the retaining ring on the fuel fitting. If they make it too tight, the tabs can't spread outward so you can release it.

That makes sense with the play.

The male end at the fuel rail definitely has a bend to it. I can see that causing a sealing issue, but I have zero guess how it got that way unless it has been bent for a while. EDIT: There's also a small divot at 12 o'clock, but its past the flange, looks to me like where one of the fitting tabs was resting.