38” draglink recommendations needed

[cmoore]

Looking for draglink recommendations.

Almost done adding a front Dynatrac HP60 to my LJ. The axle was adopted from a parted out JK (65WMS). Ive got it all pretty much done with a Clayton 3link/ORI/single ram assist.

I just need to find a decent doglegged draglink to connect the 60 to my psc big bore box (SG400). At center the tre to tre is 38”.
Or come up with a steering arm and straight DL kit option.

Trouble Im having is:

• The current dynatrac drag link is dog legged, 3" too long, and has a JK TRE at the steering box side
• few vendors list the actual length on their site, most bolt-in-able drag's Ive seen like this are going to be too long and have the wrong TRE
• I could build from this one, cut it and sleeve, and change out the pitman to accept a JK TRE. How much load does a DL really see in a hydro assist setup?
• I could build a straight arm kit (Barnes) but because the dog leg reaches rearward, a straight arm would induce an unwanted rearward angle. So I'd have to change out the steering arm (longer) and build a straight DL (seems my best option, just more work)
• and I stupidly commited to be in Moab in 13 days so I need to order from a company that ships quickly.

Any thoughts or insights are appreciated.

 

[mrblaine]

Looking for draglink recommendations.

Almost done adding a front Dynatrac HP60 to my LJ. The axle was adopted from a parted out JK (65WMS). Ive got it all pretty much done with a Clayton 3link/ORI/single ram assist.

I just need to find a decent doglegged draglink to connect the 60 to my psc big bore box (SG400). At center the tre to tre is 38”.
Or come up with a steering arm and straight DL kit option.

Trouble Im having is:

• The current dynatrac drag link is dog legged, 3" too long, and has a JK TRE at the steering box side
• few vendors list the actual length on their site, most bolt-in-able drag's Ive seen like this are going to be too long and have the wrong TRE
• I could build from this one, cut it and sleeve, and change out the pitman to accept a JK TRE. How much load does a DL really see in a hydro assist setup?
• I could build a straight arm kit (Barnes) but because the dog leg reaches rearward, a straight arm would induce an unwanted rearward angle. So I'd have to change out the steering arm (longer) and build a straight DL (seems my best option, just more work)
• and I stupidly commited to be in Moab in 13 days so I need to order from a company that ships quickly.

Any thoughts or insights are appreciated.

View attachment 622500

Why can't you shorten the existing draglink?

 

[TheBoogieman]

I'm guessing @mrblaine would be the top guy to give you help on this issue. Oops, I'm too slow typing.

 

[cmoore]

Why can't you shorten the existing draglink?

Not enough in the adjuster to spin it down to 38".

 

[mrblaine]

Not enough in the adjuster to spin it down to 38".

I didn't ask why you can't adjust it shorter, I asked why you can't shorten it. As in what stops it from being cut, shortened, and welded back together?

 

[cmoore]

I didn't ask why you can't adjust it shorter, I asked why you can't shorten it. As in what stops it from being cut, shortened, and welded back together?

I can do that and it's on my list of options. Then I'd just need a TRE or pitman change.

 

[mrblaine]

I can do that and it's on my list of options. Then I'd just need a TRE or pitman change.

That's fast, cheap, and easy. What is the tube size? You'll need a draglink style TRE and most of those require a larger taper in the pitman and most have 7/8-18 threads which typically work with 1.25" x .120 wall tube. The bigger challenge is keeping the dogleg alive and since the draglink doesn't see as much force with hydro assist at other than the draglink, it should be fine. I don't build draglinks out of anything heavier than that size tube and have never had a failure. I also don't do bent ones because the forces are trying to make it bend more. Hard to bend a straight link in compression.

 

[cmoore]

1.5" .250 7/8" thread IIRC

 

[cmoore]

[end thread]
Found a TRE that will work and I'll cut down the current draglink.

Thanks @mrblaine for the insights. I think the deadline has my brain fogged a bit.

 

[mrblaine]

[end thread]
Found a TRE that will work and I'll cut down the current draglink.

Thanks @mrblaine for the insights. I think the deadline has my brain fogged a bit.

All TRE's are not created equal. Make sure it can be used in the draglink or it will run out of angular misalignment in a hurry and do bad things.

 

[mrblaine]

1.5" .250 7/8" thread IIRC

1.5 x .250 wall gives you a 1" bore. 1.25" x .120 wall gives you a 1" hole so any of the common tube adapters will work. Be aware that 7/8" thread won't cut it. You need to be specific. The common rod end shank threads in 7/8" are 7/8-14, the threads on TREs are commonly 7/8-18. Know what you have before you order.

 

[cmoore]

Sorry, lazy typing. 7/8-18
I went with ES2026R GM draglink tre and I'll ream out the pitman to 7* / 1.5

 

[mrblaine]

Sorry, lazy typing. 7/8-18
I went with ES2026R GM draglink tre and I'll ream out the pitman to 7* / 1.5

Be aware that a 1.5" per foot taper is not 7 degrees. Pedantic but Snap-on sells a 7 degree reamer that is incorrect. If you want to borrow the correct reamer, I can get one out today. Pay shipping both ways and it is yours to use.

 

[cmoore]

Thanks! We have one here, I think it's right. I have an extra pitman to practice on so I'll know shortly. Worse case I can always get that currie pitman that's reamed.

 

[cmoore]

Turns out despite the best websearchs my info on the draglink was incorrect. Once I got into it, its solid 1 1/8".

So I trimmed the middle out. Turned down the 1 1/8” OD of the dynatrac to 1” for tight slipfit of 6” long 1.5”x.25”wall DOM sleeve. The length is perfect now.
Simple stuff from here though. Mount and tack it. Remove and get going on plug welds and tubes ends. Man lotta work just to steer.

7 days to Moab...