04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build

[mrblaine]

Something got out of whack somewhere, my driver bracket ended up higher than my passenger bracket. I need to recheck axle position tomorrow. As it sits everything clears tho which is good.

View attachment 618736
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For anyone else following along, your focus on tire clearance is less important than frame clearance. The tire rubbing on the springs is annoying, the body of the shock/dual rate cup binding against the frame can bend the shock shaft, take out the seals and is far more critical than some missing paint on a spring.

With that disance from the shock body, I'd at least try to swap the caliper to the back side of the axle, articulate it, and see if the shock body clears the caliper at full articulation.

 

[B00mb00m]

For anyone else following along, your focus on tire clearance is less important than frame clearance. The tire rubbing on the springs is annoying, the body of the shock/dual rate cup binding against the frame can bend the shock shaft, take out the seals and is far more critical than some missing paint on a spring.

With that disance from the shock body, I'd at least try to swap the caliper to the back side of the axle, articulate it, and see if the shock body clears the caliper at full articulation.

Just to clarify, you’re saying my clearance to the frame from the spring slider is too close for your comfort? I don’t want to swap the brake caliper back to the back of the axle because I snapped it off while wheeling in that position a few years ago. It really hangs down.

The clearance to the slider and frame can be helped slightly because that inner cut of the frame did leave a little lip of the original radius which I could grind back locally.

My process of thinking on the balance of tire to frame was the frame contact won’t move because it’s all fixed but the tire contact will definitely change because it will be deflated and squished. I agree tho I definitely don’t want to hit my spring slider on the frame

 

[mrblaine]

Just to clarify, you’re saying my clearance to the frame from the spring slider is too close for your comfort? I don’t want to swap the brake caliper back to the back of the axle because I snapped it off while wheeling in that position a few years ago. It really hangs down.

Hangs down further than a simple skid can protect it?

The clearance to the slider and frame can be helped slightly because that inner cut of the frame did leave a little lip of the original radius which I could grind back locally.

Or just move the lower shock mount out a tiny bit further.

My process of thinking on the balance of tire to frame was the frame contact won’t move because it’s all fixed but the tire contact will definitely change because it will be deflated and squished. I agree tho I definitely don’t want to hit my spring slider on the frame

Pretty sure the top of the tire doesn't change shape too much between 8 and 25 psi.

 

[B00mb00m]

Hangs down further than a simple skid can protect it?

Or just move the lower shock mount out a tiny bit further.

Pretty sure the top of the tire doesn't change shape too much between 8 and 25 psi.

I can move the mount out more. How do you feel about Sierras little off set puller he used? I linked the photo below from his thread.

Post in thread 'Stretched TJK (bigger rubber & extra inches)'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/stretched-tjk-bigger-rubber-extra-inches.59716/post-1732431

 

[mrblaine]

I can move the mount out more. How do you feel about Sierras little off set puller he used? I linked the photo below from his thread.

Post in thread 'Stretched TJK (bigger rubber & extra inches)'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/stretched-tjk-bigger-rubber-extra-inches.59716/post-1732431

I've built similar. The eye loop on the parking brake actuator is hardened and the flexing of it broke the eye off. Do it however you like with the understanding it was designed about a straight pull.

 

[B00mb00m]

Took a breather day yesterday to not do anything dumb because I really wanted to keep moving but knew I needed to get the foundation set first and redo the brackets. I leveled the rear of the jeep this time instead of just putting it on the same jack stand setting and calling that good. I made a 1/16” adjustment to one control arm to get it to perfectly match the fore aft location of other side. Checked the axle was centered less than 1/16”. Then the part I was trying to avoid because it sounded like a lot of work, but Blaine WAS RIGHT, this is a much better way of doing it.

Shockingly I was able to get everything from the local hardware store so I didn’t have to stop work today. This sets the lower bracket square to the CO shaft and allows for misalignment at the top since those mounts are already in.

Then I set in the brackets and did the cycles. Everything is looking very balanced IMO, the new tightest spot is the back of the bracket to the spring under articulated down. This is around 3/16”. I’m saving the pictures here not because I think anyone wants to look at small clearances but so I can reference this in future if needed.

I moved the brackets outboard 1/4” so I now have about 1/4” clearance to the inner frame.

Finally checking for tire clearance, also sitting around 1/4”

And the front of the bracket has about 1/4” clearance as well.

Ebrake routing is still an issue. I pretty much left off at the same point I was last week but now I have more confidence in what is done.

 

[mrblaine]

Not that you should but if future axle adjustments require a bit more clearance at the bottom of the shock tower, it would be pretty easy to cut a slice out and plate over the hole.

And yes, it is almost always easier to build something from a solid foundation, now you know and the confidence in knowing makes the rest a whole bunch easier so good job you.

 

[B00mb00m]

Not that you should but if future axle adjustments require a bit more clearance at the bottom of the shock tower, it would be pretty easy to cut a slice out and plate over the hole.
View attachment 619209
And yes, it is almost always easier to build something from a solid foundation, now you know and the confidence in knowing makes the rest a whole bunch easier so good job you.

Thanks for all the guidance as usual, I was shopping at the hardware store getting the “stick” supplies and chuckling to myself your words “we’re going to Aaron-proof this design.”

I was thinking the same thing about that corner. It was a good trade to trade clearance to the modifiable section from the much harder to modify interior frame wall.

 

[mrblaine]

Thanks for all the guidance as usual, I was shopping at the hardware store getting the “stick” supplies and chuckling to myself your words “we’re going to Aaron-proof this design.”

In my defense, it was easier to convince you to find round tube the same diameter as the height of the stick tube so you only had one variable to deal with. You were pretty close to the edge the other day and I didn't want to nudge you any further the wrong direction. And getting that bolt sleeve welded on as square to the long axis as possible is critical to making this work easy.

I have sticks with smaller tubes and we have to remember to move them across to the other side without flipping them around if the bolt tube isn't perfectly centered in the height of the stick tube.

I was thinking the same thing about that corner. It was a good trade to trade clearance to the modifiable section from the much harder to modify interior frame wall.

Yes, a very good trade.

 

[B00mb00m]

In my defense, it was easier to convince you to find round tube the same diameter as the height of the stick tube so you only had one variable to deal with. You were pretty close to the edge the other day and I didn't want to nudge you any further the wrong direction. And getting that bolt sleeve welded on as square to the long axis as possible is critical to making this work easy.

I have sticks with smaller tubes and we have to remember to move them across to the other side without flipping them around if the bolt tube isn't perfectly centered in the height of the stick tube.

Yes, a very good trade.

I was so close to the edge. I was running through all the shit I need to get done around the house and how I need to keep moving. I really appreciate the help. I couldn’t believe the hardware store had 1”od x 1/2” Id x 2”L steel bushing, it worked perfectly. I really appreciate the guidance as always, and i was never offended only amused, I did severely mess up these sticks on the front CO swap job years ago.

 

[B00mb00m]

@mrblaine you mentioned the possibility to pass the cable alone over the mount pushing the spring to the outboard edge (will require trimming) and the cable body to the inboard side (there’s very little cable left over for the tub attachment). Here’s what I see from initial look.

I’m not so sure it won’t work angled up like the mount that is still there would do but this would be a much straighter pull.

 

[B00mb00m]

If I could sink the cable housing mount into the shock mount it could work pretty well I think.

 

[B00mb00m]

I Cut the cable housing off probably 10 times. I think this will work. Full droop is the worst for spring contact but the brake only gets actuated at ride height. So the spring bows it out of the way a bit at droop but nothing gets pinched. I now understand why Blaine just keeps the caliper on the back.

Ride height:

And full drop:

 

[B00mb00m]

The going is still slow but making progress. Unfortunately it looks like I won’t make my dunes trip in August, but no worries maybe next year.

The driver side is essentially complete, with complete reinforcement of the tower forward and backward, backing plates added both inside and outside. The additional angle piece in front of the gussets is for mounting the reservoir.

I re did the brake line after cutting off the spring pad. Hopefully the passenger side will go a bit smoother since at least I know the plan now. I should’ve made the brackets all at the same time… in retrospect.

 

[B00mb00m]

Another 12 hrs in the garage this weekend. This big stuff is done, the towers are now fully reinforced! But I have a bunch of smaller things to do. Probably another 4 days of work. Definitely not making my dunes trip.

 

[B00mb00m]

These are my three favorite tools of this project:
#1.The m18 bandsaw has been so good for all the brackets. I hate using cut off disks so this greatly reduces the amount of dust I have to make.

#2. The Icon rechargeable magnetic light. This has been game changer for underbody welding.

#3. Ace hardware gardening kneeling pad. Those of us without a lift spend days on the concrete floor, i couldn’t do this job without a knee pad.

 

[B00mb00m]

This thing is getting really close to being test driven! Blaine walked me through spring selection based on this corner weight check with a single spring. Springs are ordered, there is a serious non-zero chance i drive it next weekend. Crossing fingers. The evap system has been relocated back a few inches to clear the tire and i re-cut the fenders to fully clear at full stuff without bumpstop. I added seam sealer on the cut edge.

Things to do:
1. I am going to rebleed the cutting brakes with a power bleeder after the new axle line routing.
2. Wire in replacement evap connector.
3. install springs / set ride height.
4. Do donuts.

 

[B00mb00m]

It’s alive!! Connector worked, springs stacked just as calculated. I am now at 6.375” up travel rear, 6” front. That was a lot of work to get uptravel back. I still haven’t finalized the e-brake setup.

 

[B00mb00m]

Front DSCs are in! I had to remake the resi mount on one side. My math didn’t work out. Started with 200/200 springs but had to go to 200/250 to get 6” uptravel with 1” or less of preload.

I have all 4 high speed compression knobs turned as soft as possible right now, then I’m going to experiment with the low speed. I generally want a very soft ride on the road that uses most of my uptravel for big hits. Not sure when I’ll get on the trail next, so for a while will be dialing in what I can.

Recording for my future self:
Zero preload =
Driver preload = 1” (silver body to top of spring nut)
Passenger preload = 1”
Resi pressure = 175 psi

 

[Wildman]

You gunna be ready to hit some trails at Reiter or Walker towards the end of the year or after the 1st of the year?