Front Drive Shaft Details

[Limestone]

I'm 99% sure my front drive shaft is making squeaking noises indicating it's time for a rebuild. It started about 2 months ago, at the time I disconnected the front drive shaft from the diff and squeaking went away. 2 observations here, 1 squeaking was definitely from the front drive shaft. 2 there is a zerk fitting I missed when I first bought it a year earlier. So, I put the drve shaft back on, greased the zerk fitting and no squeaking. That was about a month ago.
Last week I started noticing a very intermittent squeak that I could not reliable reproduce and I could not figure out if it was a pulley or the front drive shaft again. Had to do a big of commute last night 100miles/150 kms ish and the squeak is back big time, only when rolling. So drive shaft is cooked. I spent some time looking at forum posts and youtube videos. This rebuild kit seems to be highly recommended but they don't ship to the great white north. As a crafty google part number searcher, I grabbed all the part numbers from the kit and plugged them into rock auto to make my own "kit"

Is this everything I'll need? Any extra tips or suggestions. This is new territory for me.

 

[sab]

The highly-recommended kit is all Dana Spicer parts. What you show from Rock Auto is not. Apples and oranges…

 

[tworley]

Dennys driveshaft is a popular place to buy rebuild parts

 

[sab]

Here's the genuine Dana Spicer u-joint on RockAuto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...4pjtF1Uysv8+FtGyp6hFVZokWV2mybmVdDpdzEXKMmMn8

The Dorman bolts might be fine, but I'd try to find the Dana Spicer P/N for the bolts and find those on RockAuto, too. I don't have the time right now to dive into that, though.

 

[macleanflood]

Call up Tom Woods or Adam's Driveshaft and they'll send you everything you need.

-Mac

 

[Limestone]

Here's the genuine Dana Spicer u-joint on RockAuto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4937586&cc=0&pt=2392&jsn=452&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1XyS+rEifIwvxWIl7Mt9zft+Wrd9NkObIMCxdvPrz/mMy1QLVcAI8/2GywhT16edUvbJ8uwWHFiTIf6BDOH/bROTX/6zPidtDBXoK/gpS6+0umxbszHQ6HDDx1ZBscDD8EB3gZQmIhWe7/yJzkKPPGzJxvo+Llfs3ayQp7NBBmLyF/0HwU1HddSCMSo9slDxt5mZA1YL+Ns1PBqyALLUX/RqTXBik1hbNtd2VDAMxv5cHTJQCaCSZOJDdxLn0hBi1aHIcOWlRF6JYnpky0iiLGUC9v0+MiV4pjtF1Uysv8+FtGyp6hFVZokWV2mybmVdDpdzEXKMmMn8

The Dorman bolts might be fine, but I'd try to find the Dana Spicer P/N for the bolts and find those on RockAuto, too. I don't have the time right now to dive into that, though.

That's a pretty valid point. I scanned through the bolt info to figure out if they were grade 8...They didn't say.

 

[Limestone]

Dennys driveshaft is a popular place to buy rebuild parts

The major missing detail here is "Popular place to buy rebuild parts, in the US." They no longer ship out of country.

 

[Limestone]

Call up Tom Woods or Adam's Driveshaft and they'll send you everything you need.

-Mac

Never heard of these guys, but they're now on the shopping list.

 

[Weasellee]

Never heard of these guys, but they're now on the shopping list.

Note: Opinion to follow


There is no better driveshaft shop.

 

[TurboTJ]

Regardless of where you get the parts, do this right away. It is likely the double Cardan may be about to crater and when it does it will destroy the transfer case, maybe more. Then you will have a real problem.

 

[Limestone]

Regardless of where you get the parts, do this right away. It is likely the double Cardan may be about to crater and when it does it will destroy the transfer case, maybe more. Then you will have a real problem.

I plan to disconnect the drive shaft...again.

 

[Limestone]

Got home and pulled the straps off, zip tied the shaft up out of the way and sure enough no more noise.

Guess Ill give it the shaft then.

 

[KennethS]

I rebuilt mine around 10 hears ago using Precision parts from the local NAPA auto parts store. No issues since then.

 

[Link]

You also need the dust seal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPL2CO?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[jjvw]

...

Is this everything I'll need? Any extra tips or suggestions. This is new territory for me.

If you are rebuilding a factory front driveshaft, then you need a blow torch to burn out the nylon injection surrounding the u-joint caps while you press.

I did it 10 years ago. I wouldn't at this point on a 20 year old double cardan driveshaft of unknown condition.

 

[Limestone]

If you are rebuilding a factory front driveshaft, then you need a blow torch to burn out the nylon injection surrounding the u-joint caps while you press.

I did it 10 years ago. I wouldn't at this point on a 20 year old double cardan driveshaft of unknown condition.

Interesting point. My counter point is I do not expect it to last another 20 years. 10 more would probably be very lucky. 5 might be more realistic. So how much should I really throw at it? $100 CAD pesos and a few hours of my time is worth it. $750 for a new drive shaft? Nope, gonna be a 2wd TJ now.

I only really have a propane torch but may be able to get some help from a friend with oxy torches or get a shop to do it for me. So is this a show stopper?

 

[jjvw]

Interesting point. My counter point is I do not expect it to last another 20 years. 10 more would probably be very lucky. 5 might be more realistic. So how much should I really throw at it? $100 CAD pesos and a few hours of my time is worth it. $750 for a new drive shaft? Nope, gonna be a 2wd TJ now.

I only really have a propane torch but may be able to get some help from a friend with oxy torches or get a shop to do it for me. So is this a show stopper?

My point is that your drive shaft, assuming that it is original factory, is 20 years old with an unknown history. If it were mine, I would get a new one rather than rebuild, but I didn't pay $750 for any of the three Tom Wood shafts I have put on mine.

All I used back then was a propane torch to melt the plastic injection while I pressed out the joint.

 

[Limestone]

My point is that your drive shaft, assuming that it is original factory, is 20 years old with an unknown history. If it were mine, I would get a new one rather than rebuild, but I didn't pay $750 for any of the three Tom Wood shafts I have put on mine.

My mistake, it'll be $573.05. $406.73 USD as priced on Tom Woods site, after taxes, shipping etc.

I get what you're saying. But the whole vehicle is 20 years old with an unknown history... $100 CAD to rebuild the existing one with an unkonwn history to go back on a vehicle of unknown history vs almost $600 (misewell account for the 6 beers it'll take in the price) just to know the font drive shaft is new? Meanwhile I have no idea when any fluid was last changed except the oil, condition of the rear drive shaft, front diff, rear diff, transfer case, transmission etc etc etc etc.

I get the rebuttle here will be "it's yours do what you want". But I can't understand the value advantage here of 100 vs almost 600? Even if the 100 rebuild starts to fail again, I'll yank it and drive it 2wd. Like I am right now... TBH it's so good off road in 2WD I've only used the 4WD in the snow because mud tires are terrible in snow.

Maybe the middle ground is to look around locally for something for a more in between price?

 

[macleanflood]

I spent a bunch on rebuilding my original factory front shaft. Hours of work. Then stretched out the slip joint and it seized...more time... finally just ordered a new front shaft.

-Mac

 

[jjvw]

My mistake, it'll be $573.05. $406.73 USD as priced on Tom Woods site, after taxes, shipping etc.
View attachment 605817

I get what you're saying. But the whole vehicle is 20 years old with an unknown history... $100 CAD to rebuild the existing one with an unkonwn history to go back on a vehicle of unknown history vs almost $600 (misewell account for the 6 beers it'll take in the price) just to know the font drive shaft is new? Meanwhile I have no idea when any fluid was last changed except the oil, condition of the rear drive shaft, front diff, rear diff, transfer case, transmission etc etc etc etc.

I get the rebuttle here will be "it's yours do what you want". But I can't understand the value advantage here of 100 vs almost 600? Even if the 100 rebuild starts to fail again, I'll yank it and drive it 2wd. Like I am right now... TBH it's so good off road in 2WD I've only used the 4WD in the snow because mud tires are terrible in snow.

Maybe the middle ground is to look around locally for something for a more in between price?

It's yours. Do what you want.