Gear pattern opinion

Thank you. I appreciate all the help, would have been tough to get it right. It’s frustrating that I don’t fully understand what I’m looking at. Thanks again!

Quick question on pinion preload. You are measuring the force to rotate it smoothly with a beam torque wrench, not the force to start it moving? It’s at about 14-15 inch/lbs to rotate but goes up to about 30-35 to start it moving or if go super slow rotating it. I know the 14-15 is right, it just seems tight starting it. I’m down to a .062 shim stack.

The factory pinion was .066 best I. A determine but that was likely too loose as it looks like the bearing spun and tore up the shims,
 
Quick question on pinion preload. You are measuring the force to rotate it smoothly with a beam torque wrench, not the force to start it moving? It’s at about 14-15 inch/lbs to rotate but goes up to about 30-35 to start it moving or if go super slow rotating it. I know the 14-15 is right, it just seems tight starting it. I’m down to a .062 shim stack.

The factory pinion was .066 best I. A determine but that was likely too loose as it looks like the bearing spun and tore up the shims,

Only measure the rotational torque, not the breakaway torque. 👍
 
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Thank you.

Not sure if you have seen this before. I was not comfortable with the pinion preload, it seemed jumpy and inconsistent, and the shims were not making much change as you would expect. I eventually found that the fillet on the inside of the land where the shims sit on the pinion was of a large enough radius that it was causing the shims to sit up about .010 from the land they sit on. When torqued down they were deforming the ID around it. I ground out the inside of one just enough to clear the fillet and let it sit flat on the land. Seemed to fix the issue and it now feels correct. Not sure if it was an issue with this specific pinion, I did not seem to have the issue on the front. I took pics best I could. I picked up eventually when I noticed it was deforming the shim
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Not sure if you have seen this before. I was not comfortable with the pinion preload, it seemed jumpy and inconsistent, and the shims were not making much change as you would expect. I eventually found that the fillet on the inside of the land where the shims sit on the pinion was of a large enough radius that it was causing the shims to sit up about .010 from the land they sit on. When torqued down they were deforming the ID around it. I ground out the inside of one just enough to clear the fillet and let it sit flat on the land. Seemed to fix the issue and it now feels correct. Not sure if it was an issue with this specific pinion, I did not seem to have the issue on the front. I took pics best I could. I picked up eventually when I noticed it was deforming the shim
. View attachment 605489View attachment 605489View attachment 605490

That's a nice catch. There are a tone of small things like that that can cause a re-gear to get sideways. Whenever I have inconsistencies in pre-load the first thing I always do is pull everything out and clean out the housing and the parts. I've found a very small piece of my deadblow hammer that flaked off and got behind the race. Shim manufacturer inconsistencies like you found are also common.
 
That's a nice catch. There are a tone of small things like that that can cause a re-gear to get sideways. Whenever I have inconsistencies in pre-load the first thing I always do is pull everything out and clean out the housing and the parts. I've found a very small piece of my deadblow hammer that flaked off and got behind the race. Shim manufacturer inconsistencies like you found are also common.

Thanks, sorta weird, the factory one was undercut slightly in that area to not mess with shims. Didn’t seem to have the issue in the front,
 
That's a nice catch. There are a tone of small things like that that can cause a re-gear to get sideways. Whenever I have inconsistencies in pre-load the first thing I always do is pull everything out and clean out the housing and the parts. I've found a very small piece of my deadblow hammer that flaked off and got behind the race. Shim manufacturer inconsistencies like you found are also common.
Thanks for all the help. Finally had time to put axel back in. Runs smooth and no noises. Drives much better than the 4.10 that were in it, my wife is quite happy with it.