Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

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No idea. I noticed it many years ago and that this was on round trips so the ups and downs would equal out.

I've noticed the same effect when driving to Colorado to elk hunt in my 2001 Expedition. Normal efficiency is 12-13 MPG here close to sea level. When I drive around the mountains, it increases to 15MPG. I think it's because the lower air density reduces aerodynamic drag, so it takes less energy to go the same speed. Since the energy comes from the burning of gasoline, that means less fuel to go the same speed, and thus less fuel to go the same distance.

Power required to hold a steady speed is linearly related to air density, meaning the ratio of air density at two different elevations should be linearly related to the difference in fuel efficiency (inversely, though, since density goes down as elevation goes up). In my case, where altitudes vary, and fuel efficiency numbers are not accurately measured, these rough calculations seem to support my theory:

IMG_7655.jpeg


.833 and .861 are pretty close - close enough for me!
 
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I've noticed the same effect when driving to Colorado to elk hunt in my 2001 Expedition. Normal efficiency is 12-13 MPG here close to sea level. When I drive around the mountains, it increases to 15MPG. I think it's because the lower air density reduces aerodynamic drag, so it takes less energy to go the same speed. Since the energy comes from the burning of gasoline, that means less fuel to go the same speed, and thus less fuel to go the same distance.

Power required to hold a steady speed is linearly related to air density, meaning the ratio of air density at two different elevations should be linearly related to the difference in fuel efficiency (inversely, though, since density goes down as elevation goes up). In my case, where altitudes vary, and fuel efficiency numbers are not accurately measured, these rough calculations seem to support my theory:

View attachment 601921

.833 and .861 are pretty close - close enough for me!

From there, I wonder how the horsepower decrease as the altitude increases affects things.
 
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From there, I wonder how the horsepower decrease as the altitude increases affects things.

I was wondering the same thing. Winter mileage here is usually less than summer. Partly attributed to the denser air needing more fuel. There must be a fuel consumption/power output effect that is more efficient in a given range
 
From there, I wonder how the horsepower decrease as the altitude increases affects things.

It doesn't (much). I say "much" because there are some thermodynamic efficiencies of an internal combustion engine that make the following explanation not 100% true, but those effects are an order of magnitude lower on the influence scale.

In general, there are three major forces that a moving vehicle's engine are working against: rolling resistance of the tires, aerodynamic drag, and forces due to acceleration (F=ma). Ignoring the aforementioned thermodynamic efficiencies, you calculate horsepower eaten up by each of these forces by multiplying vehicle speed times force.

In all cases, the power output of the engine must equal the total of those forces to maintain that speed and rate of acceleration. Since time is a factor on both sides of the equation (power from the forces on the vehicle on one side and engine output horsepower on the other), it cancels out. And since power is energy expended per unit of time, that leaves an energy balance equation. The energy from the engine equals the energy required to overcome those three forces.

Again, ignoring the thermodynamic efficiencies of the engine, the energy output by the engine is pretty close to directly related to the volume of fuel burned. Further, since the PCM ratios the amount of fuel spit out by the injectors based on the intake air density, if you take identical conditions, but one is at sea level and the other is at 5000', with the lower air density at 5000', the only way to maintain the energy balance is to apply skinny pedal - increase the load on the engine and burn more fuel to get the energy required. In both cases, the energy required is the same, so the amount of fuel required is the same. You're just using different throttle positions to deliver that same amount of energy from the engine.

Stated another way, let's say you are driving your TJ at 5000' on a level road at 60mph in Colorado today. Two days later, you're at the gulf coast driving your TJ at 0' on a level road at 60mph. In Colorado, your throttle position is higher than it is on the coast. So, your first reaction would be to say, "well, I must be burning more gas and my fuel mileage is lower." However, that's not the case. You have to depress the throttle to apply a load on the engine to make it output the same power to make up for the lower air density. You're burning fuel at the same rate in both cases. However, the throttle position required is different.

Hopefully this makes sense the way I've described it. Of course, this is an over-simplification of what's involved in vehicle power calculations, but adding in all the other factors has only a small effect on the results.
 
It doesn't (much). I say "much" because there are some thermodynamic efficiencies of an internal combustion engine that make the following explanation not 100% true, but those effects are an order of magnitude lower on the influence scale.

In general, there are three major forces that a moving vehicle's engine are working against: rolling resistance of the tires, aerodynamic drag, and forces due to acceleration (F=ma). Ignoring the aforementioned thermodynamic efficiencies, you calculate horsepower eaten up by each of these forces by multiplying vehicle speed times force.

In all cases, the power output of the engine must equal the total of those forces to maintain that speed and rate of acceleration. Since time is a factor on both sides of the equation (power from the forces on the vehicle on one side and engine output horsepower on the other), it cancels out. And since power is energy expended per unit of time, that leaves an energy balance equation. The energy from the engine equals the energy required to overcome those three forces.

Again, ignoring the thermodynamic efficiencies of the engine, the energy output by the engine is pretty close to directly related to the volume of fuel burned. Further, since the PCM ratios the amount of fuel spit out by the injectors based on the intake air density, if you take identical conditions, but one is at sea level and the other is at 5000', with the lower air density at 5000', the only way to maintain the energy balance is to apply skinny pedal - increase the load on the engine and burn more fuel to get the energy required. In both cases, the energy required is the same, so the amount of fuel required is the same. You're just using different throttle positions to deliver that same amount of energy from the engine.

Stated another way, let's say you are driving your TJ at 5000' on a level road at 60mph in Colorado today. Two days later, you're at the gulf coast driving your TJ at 0' on a level road at 60mph. In Colorado, your throttle position is higher than it is on the coast. So, your first reaction would be to say, "well, I must be burning more gas and my fuel mileage is lower." However, that's not the case. You have to depress the throttle to apply a load on the engine to make it output the same power to make up for the lower air density. You're burning fuel at the same rate in both cases. However, the throttle position required is different.

Hopefully this makes sense the way I've described it. Of course, this is an over-simplification of what's involved in vehicle power calculations, but adding in all the other factors has only a small effect on the results.

From there, I wonder how the increase in tire pressure with the increase in altitude affects things. 🤣
 
Adjusted the control arms, the front lowers were 3/8" different lengths and the rear lowers 1/4". It definitely feels better, not quite perfect but not "bad" anymore. I might see if my front track bar bushing is worn, since it is the JKS one with a rubber bushing. But it's acceptable.

I'm on the highway miles portion of the gear breakin. 65mph is 3k RPM in 5th! I guess I'm done going 85 until I get 35s ☹️

I was so nervous shifting into 5th like I was going to accidentally go into reverse, I haven't shifted into that gear since like 2021 🤣
 
Oh RIGHT okay geniuses, what is the trick to tightening jam nuts on double adjustable control arms? There are not wrench flats on the barrel so you don't bind them up, okay, but it seems like you need them to keep the barrel from turning when you tighten the jam nuts?? Am I dumb?
 
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Oh RIGHT okay geniuses, what is the trick to tightening jam nuts on double adjustable control arms? There are not wrench flats on the barrel so you don't bind them up, okay, but it seems like you need them to keep the barrel from turning when you tighten the jam nuts?? Am I dumb?

Roll both Johnny Joints over the same direction into the brackets to bind them up. Tighten the jam nuts. A pry bar might be needed to roll the joints.
 
Roll both Johnny Joints over the same direction into the brackets to bind them up. Tighten the jam nuts. A pry bar might be needed to roll the joints.

Okay thanks. I got them tight after messing with them for awhile. I must've done that eventually inadvertently. I think I was nervous to leave them in a bind by pushing them until the stopped? But obviously must've done so to get them tight
 
Okay thanks. I got them tight after messing with them for awhile. I must've done that eventually inadvertently. I think I was nervous to leave them in a bind by pushing them until the stopped? But obviously must've done so to get them tight

Johnny Joints are stronger than you are. They won't notice the bind during tightening. Then they will wander around from side to side within the bracket as the suspension cycles over time.

Rolling them over together keeps the joints in line with each other so that they cannot unscrew against the mounts during full articulation.
 
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Johnny Joints are stronger than you are. They won't notice the bind during tightening. Then they will wander around from side to side within the bracket as the suspension cycles over time.

Rolling them over together keeps the joints in line with each other so that they cannot unscrew against the mounts during full articulation.

Okay yeah that does make sense. Thank you! I'm really part of the cool guy's club now with savvy arms
 
Got my speedohealer in the mail today, so I installed it. Took all of 20mins, nice for something to be easy for a change.

1742671255671.jpeg


I ordered it from Poly Performance... they've got some cool schwag.

1742671280362.jpeg

But of course I didn't get the 2$ sticker I ordered, so I get to be the guy asking for a 2$ refund or for them to ship it out on its own 🙄

I also bought a little 2 gallon jug for water. It will be nice for the dog, and in Moab I'm thinking. Not sure if I'm going to keep it here or find a different spot, we'll see if it obstructs my view or not. It'd be better behind the driver seat but I have a bag between the rollcage bars so it wouldn't fit as well.
1742671378263.jpeg


I've got a lot of driving planned for the rest of the weekend, I am hoping to be nearly done with the gear break-in by end of Sunday.
 
Got my speedohealer in the mail today, so I installed it. Took all of 20mins, nice for something to be easy for a change.

View attachment 603037

I ordered it from Poly Performance... they've got some cool schwag.

View attachment 603038
But of course I didn't get the 2$ sticker I ordered, so I get to be the guy asking for a 2$ refund or for them to ship it out on its own 🙄

I also bought a little 2 gallon jug for water. It will be nice for the dog, and in Moab I'm thinking. Not sure if I'm going to keep it here or find a different spot, we'll see if it obstructs my view or not. It'd be better behind the driver seat but I have a bag between the rollcage bars so it wouldn't fit as well.
View attachment 603039

I've got a lot of driving planned for the rest of the weekend, I am hoping to be nearly done with the gear break-in by end of Sunday.

Now you can’t go 124mph.
 
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Got my speedohealer in the mail today, so I installed it. Took all of 20mins, nice for something to be easy for a change.

View attachment 603037

I ordered it from Poly Performance... they've got some cool schwag.

View attachment 603038
But of course I didn't get the 2$ sticker I ordered, so I get to be the guy asking for a 2$ refund or for them to ship it out on its own 🙄

I also bought a little 2 gallon jug for water. It will be nice for the dog, and in Moab I'm thinking. Not sure if I'm going to keep it here or find a different spot, we'll see if it obstructs my view or not. It'd be better behind the driver seat but I have a bag between the rollcage bars so it wouldn't fit as well.
View attachment 603039

I've got a lot of driving planned for the rest of the weekend, I am hoping to be nearly done with the gear break-in by end of Sunday.

Cool & good to know if it turns out I've got to add mine to get my speedo right.

Nice idea on the water... I usually hang my Camelback on my seat and use the chest strap to keep it in place. With the hose hanging between the seats my daughter could drink out of it too. Fill it with ice & water in the morning and by afternoon the ice had melted but I only had to add one or two bottles of water to it.
It's also special because all my NCO's bought it for me on my 43rd bday in Kuwait right before we rolled into Iraq on 1 April 04.
 
Cool & good to know if it turns out I've got to add mine to get my speedo right.
Yeah I'll run my speedometer gps app this weekend and see if I calibrated it correctly. My speedo has been off almost the entire time I've owned the thing... Might be nice.
Nice idea on the water... I usually hang my Camelback on my seat and use the chest strap to keep it in place. With the hose hanging between the seats my daughter could drink out of it too. Fill it with ice & water in the morning and by afternoon the ice had melted but I only had to add one or two bottles of water to it.
It's also special because all my NCO's bought it for me on my 43rd bday in Kuwait right before we rolled into Iraq on 1 April 04.
That's a good idea. Unfortunately I don't think I would want to share the mouthpiece with my slobbery dog 🤣 I am thinking about buying some powdered gatorade and dumping it in there too, because plain water is boring. But gonna make sure it doesn't slop water inside the jeep first.
 
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Yeah I'll run my speedometer gps app this weekend and see if I calibrated it correctly. My speedo has been off almost the entire time I've owned the thing... Might be nice.

I've only looked at mine once and read one thread on how to install it & set it but it was when I'd started the build so 2-3 years ago... I'll be watching to see how you do with it. And yes I agree it's nice to have something work out OK for once.

That's a good idea. Unfortunately I don't think I would want to share the mouthpiece with my slobbery dog 🤣 I am thinking about buying some powdered gatorade and dumping it in there too, because plain water is boring. But gonna make sure it doesn't slop water inside the jeep first.

Nice thing about the Camelback is you can squeeze the bladder and spray some water out the mouth piece... Can't share the water with the dog if it's Gatorade can you?
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator