Building a tire carrier for a 35 inch tire

myjeep3

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.. will this carrier am building holding a 35" tire. Using a 5/8 or 3/4 bolt as a pivot. Will build a support on the other side of the arm to support it against the bumper so it doesn't move when driving. I went with mounting the pivot against the bumper instead of on top thinking they will be less stress on the pivot.

Please advise on any mods to make it stronger.

Thanks

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I have one similar and it is a bitch to open and close. The weight of the tire deflects the steel causing the issue. When the tire is not in place, it works like Wonder Bread.

I do have an idea for you but I have to become my guinea pig first.
 
I have one similar and it is a bitch to open and close. The weight of the tire deflects the steel causing the issue. When the tire is not in place, it works like Wonder Bread.

I do have an idea for you but I have to become my guinea pig first.

Yea I can image the metal on the bumper would deflect over time.
What's the idea?

Yes, it gets tights when opening it. I am thinking about redoing the pivot using this hinge imaged before. Not sure if that would help.

Let hear your idea plz.

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I built something similar for my truck. My design carriers a 37” tire - rock solid. I used 3/16 tube throughout.

These are the pictures I could dig up. I think you’ll get the idea. It’s a pretty classic design.

Hope it helps.

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That does look solid. My metal is def not that thick, and mounting the pivot against the bumper. Should I upgrade to thicker metal?
Or maybe add a plate at the back or front of the bumper to reinforce it??

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That does look solid. My metal is def not that thick, and mounting the pivot against the bumper. Should I upgrade to thicker metal?

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I’m worried the bracket welded to the outside of the bumper would develop stress fractures.

The bracket would be much stronger if the passenger side was boxed in, but that would prohibit opening wide enough to allow the tailgate to open.

Seems to me a whole new redesign is in order.
 
I’m worried the bracket welded to the outside of the bumper would develop stress fractures.

The bracket would be much stronger if the passenger side was boxed in, but that would prohibit opening wide enough to allow the tailgate to open.

Seems to me a whole new redesign is in order.

What do you mean by boxing in the passenger side? I was going to cut off that bracket and welding on this pivot hinge imaged below.

Would it help if I welding on a flat piece before the bracket, and or where the bumper bolt to the cross member?

I see these similar designs that seem solid.

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What do you mean by boxing in the passenger side? I was going to cut off that bracket and welding on this pivot hinge imaged below.

Would it help if I welding on a flat piece before the bracket, and or where the bumper bolt to the cross member?

I see these similar designs that seem solid.

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A backing plate would distribute the load.

By boxing in the passenger side I meant similar to how this setup (which actually boxed in both sides) is done. Both sides would be ideal, but then you have to go to a lot more trouble as in the pics you showed.
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You could do it more like the first pic you showed if you’re going to use the hinge you mentioned.

I guess you’ve considered something like the MoRyde/Exogate?
 
A backing plate would distribute the load.

By boxing in the passenger side I meant similar to how this setup (which actually boxed in both sides) is done. Both sides would be ideal, but then you have to go to a lot more trouble as in the pics you showed.
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You could do it more like the first pic you showed if you’re going to use the hinge you mentioned.

I guess you’ve considered something like the MoRyde/Exogate?

I see. I could box in the right side of the hinge with a U bracket, and that could serve as a stop..

I am working with 1/8 steel all around. Should I upgrade the bumper piece to at a 3/16 or 1/4? Or welding a flat piece before welding the pivot bracket accomplish the same thing? I should also be able to box in the driver side.
 
I see. I could box in the right side of the hinge with a U bracket, and that could serve as a stop..

I am working with 1/8 steel all around. Should I upgrade the bumper piece to at a 3/16 or 1/4? Or welding a flat piece before welding the pivot bracket accomplish the same thing? I should also be able to box in the driver side.

Or I could try to mod this piece i have with 2 heim joint, and make something similar to this. Whichever will be stronger.

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Or I could try to mod this piece i have with 2 heim joint, and make something similar to this. Whichever will be stronger.

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I don’t know which will be stronger. I prefer a hinge/tailgate system like the MoRyde. Most of the reviews of swing out tire carriers are not good after some use.

If I was doing one I’d use that piece you have and make adjustable/threaded heims and box in your hinge piece. I’d definitely also use a piece of 3/16” backing plate bolted to the crossmember through the bumper and welded in some areas. But I’m not the best source. Hopefully others with more experience will chime in.
 
To add to this, how confident are you in your ability to make a strong weld ? Appears that you are using a flux core, not that there's an issue with that its just a tire carrier is not the kind of project you want to fail as your driving down the highway.

A 3/16" plate will help distribute the load as mentioned above. Boxing in the hinge would also be my recommendation, but will limit the travel of the carrier when it is opened. I would also drop that tire as low as you possibly could to avoid having any added stress to the hinge.
 
To add to this, how confident are you in your ability to make a strong weld ? Appears that you are using a flux core, not that there's an issue with that its just a tire carrier is not the kind of project you want to fail as your driving down the highway.

A 3/16" plate will help distribute the load as mentioned above. Boxing in the hinge would also be my recommendation, but will limit the travel of the carrier when it is opened. I would also drop that tire as low as you possibly could to avoid having any added stress to the hinge.

It's not flux, it's stick weld, may not be pretty but def strong. Welding this is not an issue. Should the back plate be the full length of thr bumper? Would replacing the 1/8 bumper with 1/4 make more sense? That way I won't need a backing plate.

Also when building these, i always add a plate at the back of the tire and secure it to the tailgate where the original tire mount bolts in. That gives me a second hand holding it in case the pivot gives.
 
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May i ask why 3/16 and not 1/8. Alot stuff on these cars are made out of 1/8 and less and are just fine.

Just curious.
 
May i ask why 3/16 and not 1/8. Alot stuff on these cars are made out of 1/8 and less and are just fine.

Just curious.
A lot of stuff is made out of thinner material but never in a structural area where just the thickness of the metal is designed to carry heavy loads.
 
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A lot of stuff is made out of thinner material but never in a structural area where just the thickness of the metal is designed to carry heavy loads.

Makes sense. So would running a flat steel plate across the cross member where this 1/8 steel pump would mount make is strong enough? Trying to figure out if i need to replace the whole bumper with 3/16 or 1/4 or can just reinforce this one with flat steel plates.

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