Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

P0302 and drivability issues on 2000 TJ 2.5

MeIzLinsi

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Jan 6, 2025
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Corpus Christi, TX
At it again, now with a misfire that I can't seem to find a reason for. A couple months ago I had posted for a crank/no start, no spark that had me chasing my tail for weeks. That issue turned out to be my distributor. I replaced it, and all was right with the world..mostly. It seemed to have an intermittent miss after that and the distributor even still has some up and down play despite the hold down bracket bolt being tight. It doesn't seem to be leaking, though, and for the first week or so, never threw a code.

First time I had driveability issues was on the highway at about 70mph, my check engine light started blinking intermittently with no other symptoms. Within 20 minutes, and having exited to slower going roads, it lost power, and if I tried to go over 45 mph, the engine light would blinking again. I was a half an hour from home, and after checking under the hood for obvious issues, I limped it the rest of the way home doing about 30mph with no steady CEL, and obvious lack of power.

I had coincidentally ordered new injectors a few days before, but they took forever to get here, so I swapped the number 2 injector and noticed the wires in the connector were showing copper and brittle. I soldered in 4 brand new injector connectors and by this time I had a steady CEL with only P0302. No change with new connectors and different injector. My plugs and wires are brand new, I still swapped plugs 2 and 3 and even replaced cyclinder 2 wire. Still, no change.

Currently, it's driveable but only on city roads as there's no power and the CEL blinks under enough of a load. I've seen lots of posts for the 4.0 but not the 2.5 and while I realize troubleshooting isn't much different between the two, I figured it was worth the post. I've read to check compression and do a cyclinder leak test, and I'm renting the tester today for that. I have watched live data when driving and my STFT numbers seem reasonable and not crazy. I've noticed that the fuel system is a closed loop as it should be when driving around but when the check engine light blinks, it switches to open. If I understand the way that works correctly, it should only be open when cold at start up or wide open throttle, neither of which are the case when it happens. I can't ever get my calc load above 42%. And the FSM testing procedures mostly require a DRB which I obviously don't have.

Thanks in advance for input and suggestions.
 
So, I think i found my problem but I'm confused on some things. I pulled my cyclinder one plug and see the picture for what I found. WTF? Also, compression was less than 90. My confusion is on why I've only gotten a cyclinder 2 misfire code and that cyclinder has a normal plug and good compression. How the hell does that work?
1000044630.jpg
 
Might be a good time to borescope those cylinders. Wonder if you have a valve issue. Might also want to pull the valve cover and observe the rockers... looking for differences in operation, possibly using a screwdriver as a stethoscope.

-Mac
 
Broken sensor maybe? Crank position sensor or cam... maybe your distributor is shot...

-Mac

Well when I had that crank no start issue couple weeks back I replaced the cam and crank sensors, the distributor (which ultimately turned out to be the problem- the pulse ring had broken off of the distributor), in addition injectors, injector connectors, spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, O2 sensors, throttle position sensor, map sensor, cleaned throttle body and IAC, the ignition switch and actuator also.
 
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I am outside in my garage with my valve cover pulled, if anyone is online and would like to video chat with me or at least tell me what the hell I need to be looking for that would be cool
 
So, I think i found my problem but I'm confused on some things. I pulled my cyclinder one plug and see the picture for what I found. WTF? Also, compression was less than 90. My confusion is on why I've only gotten a cyclinder 2 misfire code and that cyclinder has a normal plug and good compression. How the hell does that work?View attachment 597565

I thought those things were supposed to last forever ! Are you supposed to change them every so often ?
 
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Okay so I can't crank it in it's current conditio, obviously...so do I turn it over by hand to do that? Each one has a puddle of oil on it, nothing looks bent, broken, out of shape, no foreign objects, nothing loose..
 
I'll let someone else confirm that but yeah that's exactly what I would be doing.

Cable as in the throttle cable, right? What else did you unplug?

-Mac
 
didn't even see that you were a girl ! but I'm calling bullshit, those weren't changed 2 weeks ago. plugs don't rust that bad in weeks.

I'm telling you I personally change them 2 weeks ago, maybe even just 10 days ago. Call bullshit all you want, but why would I lie if I'm trying to get my shit to run right. I'm telling you I put four brand new NTK plugs in this Jeep when I say I did. And if you look closer it's not rust it's melted.
 
look at the plug wire boot at the distributor, it looks like a chunk is missing or there's something going on there.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator