Anything is Fixable: Dylan_See's TJ Build Thread

Dylan_See_TJ

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Jul 2, 2024
Messages
134
Location
Lost in the Adirondacks
I ghosted the forum for about a year while rebuilding my TJ, and I’m just now getting around to throwing together a build thread for the project. I didn’t initially create one because A: I didn’t have an account on the TJ Forum, and B: I didn’t want documenting to a substantially detailed level to take time away from the build. Now, however, I’ve got far more time, and I’ve had a chance to actually take my rig out for a weekend campout on some state forest roads. This thread is going to serve as documentation for my build so far, and will continue to report progress towards mods and upgrades. Lucky for me, I took over a thousand pictures and videos whilst tearing down and rebuilding the Jeep, so I’ve got plenty to share.

It all started during the winter of 2022; I was a junior in high school, and, having had to sell my first car due to necessary repairs I didn’t think were worth making, I had my license, but no ride. I had initially settled for a sort of “regular” car”: a 1992 Pontiac Sunbird. It was a great little convertible, but after selling it, I decided to get what I had really wanted, since middle school: a TJ. Thus, I set about the task of finding a TJ in my budget. Boy, did I underestimate how much time, effort, and money I was about to sink into that Jeep.

I ended up settling on a ‘98 Sport, in PEA (Chili Pepper Pearl) with the 4.0, a 32rh, 137k on the clock. The Jeep had a little 1.5” budget boost and 31” tires also; It had a hard time starting, the alignment was a little loose, and it had some small rust spots. Some previous owner had swapped most of the exterior components for chrome ones, so it was a little too shiny, but I loved that thing; I’d finally bought a TJ! I picked it up about two hours from my house, and drove it home feeling like a million bucks.

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I immediately started daily driving it to school, and began tinkering with little things on the weekends. I did some tune-ups to the engine bay, Cleaned a bunch of junk out of it from the previous owner, and installed a new stereo and speakers to replace the busted ones I had gotten with it. The running boards were pretty shot, and one was detached from the body mound bolt it was supposed to be held on by at one end, so I ordered a new set of those.

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Crawling under the Jeep in the garage for the first time, I slowly began to realize what a disaster the undercarriage was. The previous owner mentioned nothing about the fact that the driver side floorboard had pretty much rotted out; someone had plastered some sheet metal over the hole with screws and attached the running board to that. Once I’d cleared out all the damage, I realized that that torque box was rusted out, and the body mount on that corner was toast.

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With this ascertained, I began making plans to take the Jeep off the road for a few weeks between my junior and senior years in order to patch the driver side torque box and floor pan. I ordered a floor pan, a torque box, and some body mount bolts, and in July, I backed the TJ into the garage and started taking stuff apart.

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I removed the soft top, and took the seats and center console out - you can imagine my surprise to learn that the seat bolts were only there in the fronts of the front seats, and the back bolts had been patched over to fix the floor. Additionally, the whole interior had been hit with a spray-in bedliner. Initially, I thought this was a plus: rust protection for the interior! Turns out, not so much; after ruining ten or so cutoff wheels cutting and grinding that stuff working my way through the floor, I will never bedline the body panels of a vehicle or buy a vehicle that has been bedlined again.

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I got the first bad section out, and pulled some body bolts, and realized there was more rot. The more rot I cut out, the more sheet metal I ordered, until I had an entire new floor sitting in the garage and still wasn’t at the edges of the rot yet. All the floor pans were shot, the torque boxes were garbage, the rear crossmember was swiss cheese, and the frame was not far off from busted. Additionally, every single body panel had at least a couple dents and some paint damage, if not rust holes hidden under trim or very poorly patched and painted over. The more I took it apart, the more parts I realized were junk. As I worked my way through the second half of July and hit the beginning of August, it became clear that if I was keeping the Jeep, it was going to take a lot of work.

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In mid August, I made the decision to abandon the old tub and find a donor for a new tub, so I began scouring the entire Northeast and down the East coast on Craigslist and Marketplace looking for tubs. I finally found one in South Carolina with a matching paint code, (figured I could paint it a lot easier if I wasn’t going all the way to bare metal before spot primer), and paid a disgusting amount of money for the seller to ship it to me in WNY, along with a pair of red fenders to replace my crusty rust belt pair.

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Since those took over a month to arrive (negotiations and the seller taking forever made the whole thing a huge pain), I turned to finishing the disassembly. With the assistance of my dad, who relearned to MIG weld (he was happy to have an excuse to finally buy a unit) to plate up the frame repairs for me, I set about fixing my swiss cheese frame. I removed the entire body, and got to work grinding, patching, priming, and painting. It’s far from perfect now, but it’s a hell of a lot sturdier and better than it was.

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To work on the frame, I pulled the transfer case skid, and of course, with the rest of the Jeep being a rust bucket, all the bolt holes were ruined. I cleaned up and repainted the skid, and tried to use one of MrBlaine’s nutsert kits, but the frame was too thin and they inevitably spun, so I resorted to cutting through the frame to weld nuts to the inside (they’re working for now; fingers crossed).

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Next, I began a long and frustrating fight with the transmission. It had been leaking, another fact the PO neglected to share. I pulled the pan, dropped the valve body, and replaced the shift shaft seal (don’t ask me how many times I had to reopen the pan; it’s not zero). The transmission presented numerous reoccurring problems throughout the entire project, and I ended up replacing the shift shaft seal, drilling out a rivet on the valve body to replace a busted plastic piece on the detent lever that connects to the NSS, and adding a deep capacity transmission pan with a drain plug. You might say that after opening up and draining the asinine pan design 5 times, I was tired of pouring ATF all over myself.

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While working on the frame and waiting for the body to arrive, I decided that the crusty suspension needed to go, and started accumulating a mountain of parts to gut and rebuild the entire thing. I started with a JSPEC 2.5” lift kit (I eventually want to get 33” tires) and from there, I repainted both sway bars and their brackets, replaced both track bars, replaced all 8 control arms, and replaced every single bolt in the suspension (stainless or grade 8 wherever possible). Someone had installed a steering stabilizer too, so I repainted that and kept it as well.
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It wasn’t just the moving parts that were shot, however: I ended up cutting off the spring perches and frame connections in the rear and ordering new ones to weld on as well. My dad and I did one end of the suspension setup at a time, starting with the rear. I disconnected the whole suspension, got the axle on jack stands, and cleaned and painted it. I ground off the ruined spring perches and my dad welded on the new ones, and I painted up the rest of the parts before we put the whole rear suspension together. By now the body had long since arrived, but we had a long way to go before the new tub went on.

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As fall ended and winter went by, progress slowed. It took me nearly two months to tear down the front suspension and finish the last few bits of paint on the frame. Once my dad and I assembled the front suspension, the Jeep was finally a roller again. With the frame and suspension complete, it was time to finish the odds and ends; the exhaust system, the fuel system (swapped out of a parts Jeep I bought in August), miscellaneous painting and assembly, the water pump, the fuel pump, the fan clutch, the transmission, etc. Then, finally, we could start on the body.

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We began by taking the far less rusty donor dub and cleaning up the bad paint and pitted floors; I didn’t need these to be perfect, as I had Armorlite that was going to cover the whole interior. My dad welded patches for the small damaged areas on the floor pans, and I got to work cleaning everything up with a grinder and body filler. I ended up spot priming the underside and painting it with a combination of farm paint and black spray paint. I then painted the engine bay side of the firewall black with spray paint as well. It’s not a show car, so I wanted something functional and easy to repaint should the need arise. Once the body was ready to start being sanded, we finally got around to mounting it on the frame. That was a good day.

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Next, I began prepping all the other body panels. The doors needed body filler, the windshield was coming out of the frame (tried to reinstall it ourselves and broke it; had a guy come out and install a new one - the guys on here that say it’s too much of a hassle not to farm out are right), the fenders needed to be painted black on the insides, and the inside of the tailgate needed to be painted black. I also spent a weekend painting the entire inside of the tub black. I didn’t bother dealing with all the surface damage and blemishes; the interior hides all that and all I cared about was stopping rust. I mounted all the hinges (some new, some old, some off of other jeeps) on the articulating panels, and we put the whole body together. I had to retap just about every bolt hole on the tub, but once we were done, it actually looked like a Jeep again!

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Finishing the suspension and assembly of the body had taken the rest of the winter and most of the spring, and we didn’t get to the body work and paint stage until the end of May. As June rolled in, I was pushing hard to get the Jeep done by the end of the school year (remember, it had been in pieces my entire senior year of high school). I installed the dash and the pedals before we painted it, and put the engine bay back together minus the lights and the cooling system. At one point doing the body filler work, I actually pulled an all-nighter trying to finish the steps required before primer. We missed our self imposed deadline of the end of the school year, but we were on the home stretch at this point. Once the school year ended, I worked on that Jeep like it was my 9-5 and hobbies; 10, 12, 15, even 20 hours a day, and over those next few weeks, sanding, primer, more sanding, paint, clearcoat, and wet sanding were finished up.

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I then began the mad dash to finish all the odds and ends; the cooling system, the lights, the seats, the top, the bumpers (still haven't finished the rear bumper, oops) the center console, the trim, the fender flares, and then, FINALLY, I took it for a test drive. On July 4, 2024, just under a year after I took it off the road, I had my Jeep back.

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Since then, I’ve taken it to a car show, gone on a wheeling trip, and driven all over the Adirondacks with it in my first semester of college. I love that little Jeep, and I’ve long since stopped keeping track of the official tally of how much money I have into it. I have so many more plans for mods, and I’m sure my battle with the rust monster is far from over, but for now, my rig is in rust remission.


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Finally getting around to recapping the last few things I've done to the rig; over Thanksgiving break I got the spare tire on, did an oil change, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, changed out the plugs and wires, and started wiring up the light bar I've got for the four KC halogens I salvaged off of the parts jeep. I also mounted up a CB Radio under the dash (working on mounting the antenna still), added some Fishbone Offroad storage bins for the backseat, rebuilt and polished up the four KC lights, and realized the light bar mounts I had for the tube weren't the right ones for a TJ.

Between Thanksgiving and Christmas, I got a bit of driving in deep snow up near Old Forge, and I was pleasantly surprised that the TJ can handle snow up to the running boards pretty easily. Since I've been home on Christmas break, I've actually mounted the lights, thanks to having ordered the correct mounts, and I'm working my way through the wiring; should be able to fix some faulty turn signal wiring up front too. Also, I picked up a thrashed 32RH from a guy in Utica so I can rebuild it and swap out my 32RH, which is in pretty rough shape. Pics of progress forthcoming once I have halfway decent internet.
 
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St. Lawrence up in Canton. I’m originally from near Buffalo. I have a couple buddies from high school who go to Oswego.

My parents lived in Buffalo for 10 years. Nice place to visit.

Depending on the snow you can push snow that is as high as your hood. But then you run into overheating issues.
 
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There she is with the new light bar. This morning on the way into work, the Jeep did not want to start; neither did I, it was still below zero this morning. I had a weird issue driving up in the high peaks where the engine kept losing power; I’d be driving through a valley and all of a sudden every light on the dash would come on, and I’d get a fluttering in and out of power. This freaked me out of course, cause I was 100 miles from school and thought I was about to be in need of a new engine. Luckily, there’s parking every few hundred yards up there for climbing and hiking routes, so I pulled off into one of those and let it cool down for about an hour, checked all the plugs and wires, checked all the fluids, and then fired her up again (didn’t find anything broken or loose). Drove fine after that, and is still driving fine. Working theory is that there might have been an obstruction somewhere in the fuel system that has since cleared. A full fuel line replacement has earned a spot on the to-do list. That, along with replacement bumpers, possibly a winch, rebuilding the transmission, and restoring the hard top. Gonna be another busy summer, I suppose.
 
Might have finally figured out the coolant leak. I've been getting almost little sprays of coolant up onto the underside of the hood when I kill the engine, and I think I've got either a leaky radiator cap (possibly exacerbated by the cold) or a small hole somewhere along the top of the radiator. All the hoses are fresh and the radiator was replaced by the PO, so I'm leaning towards slapping a fresh cap on it and seeing if that does the trick.
 
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Got home for the summer and started in on rebuilding my spare 32RH. Got it torn down to the subassembly level in an afternoon, and my rebuild kit from OPT should be showing up later this week. I think someone has been through this unit already, because the friction material looks really good. Still going to replace it, because at this point why not while I have it apart, but changing out all the seals and a handful of hard parts may be an exercise in unknowable futility. It'll be nice to have the piece of mind, at least, once it's done. I have been leaning heavily on @hear 's series of videos and his 32RH rebuild thread; super helpful. I will say, on the 02 transmission I'm tearing down, the pump threads you need to get at with a slide hammer to pull it out are M10x1.0, not 7/16 like they were on his 97's 32RH.
 
Got home for the summer and started in on rebuilding my spare 32RH. Got it torn down to the subassembly level in an afternoon, and my rebuild kit from OPT should be showing up later this week. I think someone has been through this unit already, because the friction material looks really good. Still going to replace it, because at this point why not while I have it apart, but changing out all the seals and a handful of hard parts may be an exercise in unknowable futility. It'll be nice to have the piece of mind, at least, once it's done. I have been leaning heavily on @hear 's series of videos and his 32RH rebuild thread; super helpful. I will say, on the 02 transmission I'm tearing down, the pump threads you need to get at with a slide hammer to pull it out are M10x1.0, not 7/16 like they were on his 97's 32RH.

Glad you're making good use of my videos. I wish I had the patience & skills to really do high quality videos. If you have the transmission out, it's almost silly to not open it up. The rebuild kit can be had for $100 if you don't need a new kickdown band or bushings, and once you have the pump out it's honestly quite easy to inspect if not replace the frictions.

Interesting note on the pump puller bolts. One time I did one and the 7/16 didn't fit as perfectly as I am used to. 7/16-14 is pretty close to M10x1.0, which is probalby why it worked. I wonder if somebody re-tapped it as some point, or if they changed to metric along the way? I did an 02 a few weeks ago and it was 7/16 for sure, but I also can't say for certain that the transmission was the original unit.

Nice work on the build, btw.
 
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Thanks! This project would be much more daunting, especially the reassembly, if I wasn’t able to check your steps when I got stuck. Got the pump and the first drum taken apart last night, and the fact that I can see the numbers printed on the friction clutches seems to suggest that they’re pretty new. I’ve been doing one subassembly at a time, setting it out, disassembling it, and tagging and bagging it for storage until it's time to clean it aggressively and reassemble once I have the rebuild components. So far so good 🤞.

I’m definitely going to crack open the unit that’s in my rig now after I swap it out, and may very well throw the lightly worn stuff out of the new unit into it as a cheap way to rebuild it so I can then sell it to offset the cost of the swap. Perhaps I’ll keep both and use them as a perpetual transmission rebuild rotation.

It was incredibly handy that the pump slots were that thread pitch, because they exactly match the threaded rod on my Harbor Freight slide hammer. Didn’t even need a bolt threaded to match in order to pull the pump, because I could screw it right into the pump itself.

I have had, intermittently, another issue with the TJ that I've finally got time to get around to tracking down and snuffing out. When I'm driving, the voltage meter on the dash occasionally cranks all the way up and the check gauges light comes on for a few minutes before the voltage returns to normal and the light shuts off. No noticeable difference in driving or shifting or anything, but the gauge reads like I should be blowing out every fuse in the harnesses.

Also, in a probably related matter, the Jeep sometimes refuses to start unless I unplug and reconnect the battery. I get no click, no start attempt, nothing, but if I pop both terminals off their posts and put them back, she fires right up (sometimes a little rough, but a replacement starter is on the to-do list, and this problem is certainly electrical in nature).

I'm thinking I've probably got a bad ground, or multiple, especially considering everything got taken apart, slathered up with paint, and reinstalled when I did my tub swap. it's entirely possible I missed something or didn't get good contact surfaces for the grounds on the harness in the engine bay. If it's not a bad ground, maybe the voltage regulator or the PCM is going bad? The PCM being janky would explain why disconnecting and reconnecting the battery is allowing me to start it when it decides not to want to run.

If the entirety of my day off this week doesn't wind up being consumed by the 32RH rebuild, I'll probably start with checking the grounds to rule that out, and then if the issue persists, start monkeying with other electrical components.
 
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I've seen that voltage spike/check gauges thing. I was advised that it was the voltage regulator (on the alternator?) that was failing, but I think I may have determined that it was my (+) battery lead touching the side of the tub. I moved the battery and re-tightned it and I"ve never had that problem again after 3 years. YMMV of course.

nice find on the slide hammer. I always have to use the axle puller adapter which is a hassle. I would love to do it as you describe. Seems like every other trans I've touched or watched rebuilds on have a bolt on bellhousing which holds the pump in, so no pulling is necessary.
 
I'll definitely be eyeballing the paths of the terminal wires when I check the grounds. It may very well be the alternator going down the drain; I suppose I'll have to see when I get in there and make sure there isn't crazy resistance across all my engine bay circuits. Got the second and third drums torn down last night, and the plan is to tackle the low/reverse drum tonight and start in on the valve body. Should be ready to start cleaning and reassembly soon after the OPT kit arrives in the mail. My collection of sharpie-scrawled ziplocs is getting rather large as I'm getting everything down to all the individual parts. I'm maybe 6 hours in so far, so I'll probably be around 8 once I've got the whole thing apart, and I estimate at my pace it'll take about three times that long to clean and reassemble everything, so I'll probably land just north of 30 hours for the whole rebuild excluding the swap, which isn't breakneck speed, but it is quite a bit faster than I'd expected. I can definitely see why you enjoy messing with these things; tinkering with all their intricate parts is loads of fun.
 
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My OPT kit showed up, and I finished tearing down the last few subassemblies, most notably the valve body. When I was watching one of the videos in that series you can imagine my dismay when @hear mentions to be careful pulling apart the shift selector because of a tiny detent ball that’s under spring pressure. The ensuing lightbulb in my head about why that shot apart when I was monkeying with the park rod before the valve body was removed from the case made me realize that I definitely shot that across the garage, so it may as well have ceased to exist. That said, I can’t seem to find one anywhere online for sale, only kits that have you bore out the slot, put a sleeve in it, and install a different spring and ball there, which I’d like to avoid doing if I can. I’d take the ball out of my old 32RH, but I’m fairly sure in retrospect that unwittingly dropping that while I was replacing the shift shaft seal two years ago is probably why my transmission doesn’t click when you pass it down the PRNDL. Ideas on where I could find one? Sonnax, TransTec, WhateverItTakes, and a couple other places I’ve checked don’t have them, at least not that I can find; only the bore and repair kits.

In other news, I’m eyeing another TJ to potentially flip (assuming it isn’t salted to death) and net some parts and cash, and considering going to an SYE and a bigger (3” with BL and MML or 4”) suspension lift so I can buy 33s instead of 31s to replace my crappy tires. There’s a guy not too far from me selling his driveshafts, SYE, and 3” suspension lift for 700 bucks, so I may end up with those parts in the near future, assuming they’re good, and with a set of 4.10 axles on my parts Jeep that I was already planning to keep, gut, and rebuild with upgrades, this could line up nicely for 33s on 4.10s with beefed up stock axles in the not too distant future.
 
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I would call A&A Transmission out of Indiana, or Cobra Transmission and see if they have a shift detent ball. Did you lose the spring too?

Interesting how you told the extension housing out with the output shaft still inside. Or did you put the output shaft back in there? Because nothing is holding it in at this point.

Anyway, I love seeing pics of people tackling this project. I helped another guy rebuild his via text the last week or so. So much fun!!

Take TONS of pictures of the throttle valve area, that the one that is wrong in the FSM. You’ll want to put it back together exactly as you took it apart, don’t rely on the guides.
 
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Thanks for the recommendations for parts places to check; I’ll give them a call when I can. I did not lose the spring, only the ball. I put the output shaft in there as somewhere to set it after I had pulled it out; it did come apart before I took out the extension housing.

Appreciate the tip on the throttle valve; pretty sure I made myself a “hey future stupid, here’s how this goes together” video for every piece that comes off the valve body. It’s a habit I picked up doing my tub swap, and man is it helpful. I just explain how it comes apart and show on camera like future me is a toddler, and I can usually figure it out when I’m putting things pack together.

Also, I ended up turning around on my way to the gym and to get parts this afternoon because my gauges all went dark. Total loss of power to everything that comes on in accessory mode, only while I was driving. At first I thought “well shit I guess my alternator is toast”, but I was able to park hastily in a parking lot, start it three times trying to cycle out the error if it was PCM, and then drove it home in the rain with no lights, wipers, or turn signals using my phone as a speedometer via gps. Fun.

A few hundred yards from my driveway, everything spontaneously resumed function. I am going to swap the ignition switch tomorrow and check some grounds; I think some electrical issues are compounding, possibly because of overcharging. New alternator might be in the cards sooner rather than later.
 
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I recently changed out my ignition, and I notice that sometimes the key sticks between start and run, and when it does that I have no acdessories. I just have to bump the key back a little and then everything comes to life. So many things I miss about how my old ignition worked...

If you have the spring, you might find that any ball bearing you happen to have on hand might do the trick. Also, a trick for installing it is to use one of the thicker blades in a feeler gauge (I think I used a 0.025") to hold the ball down whilst I put it all back together.