PSC Hydro-Assist Installation Instructions (Using Black Magic Kit)
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
That's really bizarre. I know that often times Mopar will supersede a part number with a different one, but this doesn't appear to be that.
I almost want to say they mistakenly sent you the wrong part. I've seen it happen where people return a part in the wrong box and somehow it passes inspection only to get passed onto the next guy as the "correct" part when in fact it's only the correct box. This has happened to me once or twice on Amazon. Fortunately they're very good with returns so it has never been an issue, only an inconvenience.
Has anyone purchased a NEW steering shaft lately? I just received another exactly like I received before but this time from an eBay seller.
Time to try again.
Has anyone purchased a NEW steering shaft lately? I just received another exactly like I received before but this time from an eBay seller.
Time to try again.
About a year and a half ago.
I'm starting to put together a list of parts to acquire for the hydro-assist. I have an LJ, so the current pressure line from the pump won't work, and the earlier OEM is recommended in this, and other, threads. However, the earlier OEM line is now discontinued. Aftermarket lines are available, though.
Anyone have opinions on aftermarket OEM-equivalents vs. using field-serviceable ends and making a hose?
Anyone have opinions on aftermarket OEM-equivalents vs. using field-serviceable ends and making a hose?
Use the Edelmann or Autozone Duralast. Last several pressure lines have been Edelmann in Duralast bags.
https://www.autozone.com/searchresult?searchText=power steering pressure line
Step 20
Now it's time to bleed the system. Follow these instructions to properly bleed the system:
- The vehicle’s battery should always be disconnected before any modifications are made.
- Make sure all of the fittings in the power steering system are tight.
- Raise all steering tires off of the ground.
- Fill reservoir with power steering fluid (never use automatic transmission fluid). PSC recommends either Swepco 715 or a GM power steering fluid that they supply the part number for. Leave the cap off of the reservoir.
(Fill level should be 1” below the top of the reservoir. On single ended cylinder applications this should be measured with the cylinder collapsed.)- Cycle the steering from lock to lock three or four times.
- Check fluid level in reservoir. Refill as needed.
- Repeat steps 5 and 6 until a consistent level in the reservoir is reached.
- Reconnect the battery. Replace the cap on the reservoir.
- Start the vehicle and let it run without any steering input for 30 seconds but be aware that if there is air in the system, there is a good chance you will smoke the pump. Do not start the engine until no air moves into the reservoir when the steering is turned lock to lock. You can under do it, you can't over do it.
- Turn off engine.
- Check and refill reservoir as needed, replacing cap when done.
- Start engine and cycle steering from lock to lock 10-15 times.
- Turn off the engine and let it stand for 10 minutes to allow air bubbles to work out of the system.
- Repeat steps 11-14 until there are no air bubbles visible in the reservoir.
- With the engine running, observe the fluid level in the reservoir. While looking in the reservoir,
turn off the engine. The fluid level should not change.- If the level does not change, check the system for leaks. If there are no leaks, test drive the
vehicle. If the level does change start over at step 4.
I'm swapping a new power steering pump, but not doing hydro assist. Would this same process work for bleeding a non hydro assist system as well?
Yes, doesn't matter if you have a cylinder or not.
No too short and not too long. At full shock extension, the lines are just starting to get tight at the connections. The actual length varies from extended shock length to extended shock length.
Plumbing department at the hardware store.
Anyone that gives you those numbers doesn't like you very much. They have to be built at full droop with the lines just starting to pull tight against the fittings in their correct orientation.
Wall thickness of the hose affects the clamp size. You need to take a piece of hose with you and the clamp is roughly 1/16" bigger all the way around. If you don't do it that way, the fitting barbs will swell the hose too large to get a snug fitting clamp over them.
This should be expounded upon and clarified further. I am extremely capable of getting hoses made with crimped ends to any length I want with the fittings clocked however I need them to be. If one size worked for most, I'd have those made and sell them. They won't work well for most and at best would be a terrible compromise.
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