What did you do to your TJ today?

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Not sure about the baffle box you're referring to, but you can mount the same 5-1/4" speakers in the dash as you did in the soundbar with pods like these...

[URL]https://www.crutchfield.com/p_663DSHPD03/Select-Increments-Dash-Pods.html[/URL]

Thanks guys! i am going to buy these pods. I need clean install. There is nothing to mount the speaker to at all if I don't use this. Further, my rear speakers are actually behind my wind jammer, so i don't mind if they are a little too loud. Finally, fade can always fix too much front. I will try and update some pics.
 
While waiting on the new radiator to come in (should be tomorrow), I've been piddling around with other stuff. Like the broken driver's side stock fog light adjustment. The plastic bushing piece that holds the head of the adjustment screw into the mounting bracket was broke in half and I've no idea where or when the other half went, only that it's been aggravating me since I've owned the LJ. I figure the previous owner tried to adjust it without loosening the hinge screw and it shattered. No matter how much I'd tighten the bolt in a few days, it'd start pointing back down towards the ground.

So, I finally got around to messing with it. Two 6mm flat washers & two 7/32" e-clips later, it's fixed. The 6mm flat washers are too small for the head of the screw to slip through (1/4" will though) and will hold the adjust screw in place in the mounting bracket. The e-clips hold the washers in place on the screw.

Works like a charm now for something I couldn't find the part to fix without buying another whole new light.
 
Is it common for drum brake self adjusters to go bad? My right rear one will get through a few spots that are extremely difficult to turn. Left one is smooth. Right one gets jammed up to the point where I have to take a glove to get enough leverage to turn it by hand.
 
Is it common for drum brake self adjusters to go bad? My right rear one will get through a few spots that are extremely difficult to turn. Left one is smooth. Right one gets jammed up to the point where I have to take a glove to get enough leverage to turn it by hand.

They can go bad. They can get dirty / rusted like anything else. You could try and take it out clean it up and lube it and see if that helps. For clarity I assume you are referring to this piece.

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They can go bad. They can get dirty / rusted like anything else. You could try and take it out clean it up and lube it and see if that helps. For clarity I assume you are referring to this piece.

View attachment 456271

The one that I got seems to be bad and it is brand new. I have the wheels off to switch the shocks. I may disassemble that brake, take out the adjuster, and really clean it out, but it has less than 50 miles on it.
 
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The one that I got seems to be bad and it is brand new. I have the wheels off to switch the shocks. I may disassemble that brake, take out the adjuster, and really clean it out, but it has less than 50 miles on it.

Well they don’t go bad that fast! Not sure what else would be wrong with it. Hard to cross thread it. Maybe just got something in there. I usually screw them in / out before installing to make sure they work correctly.
 
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Added rear sway bar bushings (greaseable) and bar clamps.

Wasn't happy with the bushings that came with the Energy Suspension set (they weren't split and didn't want to have to disconnect the sway bar end links) — replaced them with MOOGs.

Drilled a small grease hole in each bushing half and countersunk it to fit the zerk end.

Finished up by adding 16mm-bore bar clamps, manufactured by Ruland (Marlborough, MA).

– Energy Suspension 2.5111G 16mm Rear Sway Bar Set - https://tinyurl.com/9exjhpf3
– MOOG K3160 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit - https://tinyurl.com/55w55bju
– Ruland MSP-16-F, 16mm Two-Piece Shaft Collar - https://tinyurl.com/ye2ab76b

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