What are you using to install nutserts? The wrench, nut and bolt method, or the tool?
I didn’t even notice my gap. I assumed it was normal. I guess I’m not as OCD as you.
Genright mini boats on an LJ
- Thread starter Steelyace
- Start date
What are you using to install nutserts? The wrench, nut and bolt method, or the tool?
I didn’t even notice my gap. I assumed it was normal. I guess I’m not as OCD as you.
Great job-
Do you mind elaborating on the notches at the flares and what modifications were needed to keep the flare secured?
Thanks, it pertains to one I’d like to fix.
Andy
For me I decide to line them up and decide where I want to cut them, I didn't want to cut any more than I had to. I end up taking off Just enough to cut the whole backer off it's a good ⅛". Then when I reinstalled the factory hardware I put just a little bit larger washer behind them just to help support it a little more. Is it needed? probably not.
This is the tool they provided and it’s what I used.
View attachment 444388
Not sure what it’s called. I would probably try a different method if I did it again.
It’s a blessing and a curse
If you set nutserts often, you might get a set like this. I use mine way more than I thought I would.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081GDRTXP/?tag=wranglerorg-20
This is the tool they provided and it’s what I used.
View attachment 444388
Not sure what it’s called. I would probably try a different method if I did it again.
It’s a blessing and a curse
From BMB website:
How they work -
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I used the Astro version for the entirety of my corners and sliders. That was 50-60 nutserts. A rotabroach is also strongly recommended to get the 100 or so holes accurately placed.
Did you use nutserts on every hole for your corners and sliders? Or just the places where needed?
You'll learn more by not using a rotabroach. Use a dull sharpie to mark the centers, remove the rockers, and then drill them. If the bolts don't line up, you get to learn even more skills!
Maybe that's why some people buy a 2nd Jeep?
Thank you for the link @JMT ! $38 is the cheapest I've seen that tool go for.
@Steelyace do you think there would be any benefit to cutting 4-5 vertical lines into the body seam while folding it in? I'm wondering if bending it over shorter distances will provide a better bend.
@Steelyace do you think there would be any benefit to cutting 4-5 vertical lines into the body seam while folding it in? I'm wondering if bending it over shorter distances will provide a better bend.
Kinda like using a hacksaw for everything instead of having a grinder available!
I'm sure that would work. If you're using a hacksaw you could always just cut a little wedge out of there. Mostly you need to be able to get that edge to about a 45° angle and you'll see how far up you have to go. It's not as bad as you think, and if you think you screw it up...... it's covered up anyway.
Just use a heavy rubber mallet or dead blow. Cutting reliefs is a waste of time. You are covering everything up. And a reason you aren't cutting up or cutting off the seam is because you are retaining the welded structure of where those two body panels meet.
On stock front fenders, there is one vertical rib that needs a small pie slice to allow for enough fold.
Anytime I need a blind nut.
I’ve used on the inside of the tub for anchors/tie downs. I’ve used for corner armor, sliders. I’m not sure where else, but I’ve got my sons rig too, so that added a bunch. It may not be much help to you now.
X2 on getting your own nutsert tool. I also bought stainless 304 nutserts instead of the brass ones. And 304 hardware. Ended up putting nutserts in lots of places...holding up the gas tank...filler neck screws. Doing everything in M8 or M5 for common wrench sizing.
-Mac
-Mac
I used that tool for replacing my frame nutserts. The bearing makes it so much better!
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