Front bumper removal to install AntiRock
- Thread starter GregBelleville
- Start date
You get what you pay for, buy whatever you want. I go two ways with tools- bottom of the barrel or higher end. All my tools are pretty much a mix of the cheapest HF and Milwaukee/Bluepoint/Snap-On, etc.
I treat the cheap ones as disposable. They'll burn up easy if you over work them but if you have a feel for it they'll last way longer than you'd expect too. Just get whatever you want. At $45 though it's not quite cheap enough that I'd want to be throwing it around on the floor like I do with the $15 jobbies
I have 2 of these laying around they are great for tight spaces. dont force it, just let the grinder do the work. https://www.harborfreight.com/43-amp-4-12-in-angle-grinder-with-slide-switch-58089.html
Don't forget the eye and ear protection. All of them are LOUD and will spit a chunk of metal in your eye in no time flat.
If I'm doing a lot of grinding I'll pull out the corded grinders but for smaller grinding and cutting jobs it's nice to use a cordless tool, even if I have to use a second battery.
You need bigger batteries. I have two each of the Milwaukee Fuel Grinders, M18 8ah and 12ah batteries. The 8ah batteries are enough to make them useful without having to change batteries too often.
Watch on FB marketplace for a better one (makita). Good to have two, one grinding and one cut off as has been suggested. D
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:8379519a-651c-4f3b-9443-c117bd92780d
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:8379519a-651c-4f3b-9443-c117bd92780d
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Ok guys, thanks for the suggestions. I was able to cut the welds off and remove the bumper successfully.
So on to my next problem which is regarding the anti rock. I got the sway bar arms installed and was trying to set up the sway bar link length by measuring the distance from the center of the sway bar hole to center of the mounting hole on the axle, which came out to 5.5".
The sway bar links for the anti rock are way too long to get anywhere close to 5.5". Check out the pics I took, you can see that the arms are way above parallel.
My Jeep suspension is stock ride height, with just a body lift at this point that we put on by prior owner.
Does anyone have experience installing an anti rock on a Jeep with stock suspension height? Do I need to cut these links shorter?
So on to my next problem which is regarding the anti rock. I got the sway bar arms installed and was trying to set up the sway bar link length by measuring the distance from the center of the sway bar hole to center of the mounting hole on the axle, which came out to 5.5".
The sway bar links for the anti rock are way too long to get anywhere close to 5.5". Check out the pics I took, you can see that the arms are way above parallel.
My Jeep suspension is stock ride height, with just a body lift at this point that we put on by prior owner.
Does anyone have experience installing an anti rock on a Jeep with stock suspension height? Do I need to cut these links shorter?
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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You’ll need to cut them, or I think Rock Jock sells shorter versions. I could be wrong and thinking of another company.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
You could pull the front springs and move the axle to full bump to see if the arms contact the fenders. With the BL, they may not. If they do, shorten links and try again. If not, they're probably okay to run as is. Also of note, it looks like you have the H&R 1 - 1.5" lift springs.
The shocks and springs were installed by a prior owner. I tried measuring them and they seem to come out to 12" which I thought was stock?
So as long as the sway bar arms don't contact anything at full stuff/full droop it should be good to run as is even with the arms above parallel?
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
I *believe* you want to very there is no contact between the arms and fenders at full stuff. On the droop side, links that are too short can invert. I cannot think of any issues that would be caused by them being longer than nominal at full droop.
As to the springs, I agree they appear to measure as stock. Looks like they're not living up to their promise. Here are the specs from H&R. (I know it says "lowering" in the chart header, but on the left it says "lift springs", and most seem to get 1" - 1.5" out of those.)
Cool, I'll try and verify no issues at full stuff.
The springs might not be giving me the 1"of lift because of the bumper and winch?
The one from harbor freight was 20 bucks and it did the job.
I don't see myself having a frequent need for this so buying a top shelf brand didn't make sense this time.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Probably the case. Bumper and winch will add some weight and would sag a stock suspension, so perhaps you're getting back to stock height with the aftermarket springs.
One more question for everyone. In removing the bumper yesterday, one of the 6 mounting bolts that attach the bumper to the frame was missing.
Anyone know the size and thread pattern for those bolts? It's a hardware store like Ace or Home Depot likely to have a similar one?
Anyone know the size and thread pattern for those bolts? It's a hardware store like Ace or Home Depot likely to have a similar one?
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