PSC pump and power steering cooler

[NskLJ]

I am looking to add a Psc pump to my Psc box with possibility of adding hydro assist in the future. My question has anyone run this type of ps cooler with the Psc pump? I have 2 of these coolers already installed one for trans and one for ps. If I had to switch to the Derale fin type cooler is there room for the trans cooler also in front of the condenser? @mrblaine @hosejockey61

 

[mrblaine]

I am looking to add a Psc pump to my Psc box with possibility of adding hydro assist in the future. My question has anyone run this type of ps cooler with the Psc pump? I have 2 of these coolers already installed one for trans and one for ps. If I had to switch to the Derale fin type cooler is there room for the trans cooler also in front of the condenser? @mrblaine @hosejockey61
View attachment 400380

You'll not be as good as you could be if you run a 3/8" return line. The finned cooler needs to be mounted below what the hood safety latch would interfere with when the hood is closed.

 

[NskLJ]

You'll not be as good as you could be if you run a 3/8" return line. The finned cooler needs to be mounted below what the hood safety latch would interfere with when the hood is closed.

I see, you are running -8 so 1/2” return line for the power steering. What are the best options for trans cooler placement when running the Derale power steering cooler that you have found?

 

[mrblaine]

I see, you are running -8 so 1/2” return line for the power steering. What are the best options for trans cooler placement when running the Derale power steering cooler that you have found?

Best depends on how much cooling you need. We run almost exclusively the Setrab Slimline Race coolers because they work very well for us. They are not cheap or easy to install.

 

[NskLJ]

Best depends on how much cooling you need. We run almost exclusively the Setrab Slimline Race coolers because they work very well for us. They are not cheap or easy to install.

View attachment 400384

That is the info I am looking for. From the picture that is with the radiator and condenser removed. Looks like the cooler mounting bracket was welded to the brace then the cooler slid into it. It the cooler mount something Setrab supplies or did you fabricate? I did a quick look on their site and did not see it. You are correct that they are pricey but in the end if I have to mess around with something else for hours to get it to fit. What have I saved.

 

[mrblaine]

That is the info I am looking for. From the picture that is with the radiator and condenser removed. Looks like the cooler mounting bracket was welded to the brace then the cooler slid into it. It the cooler mount something Setrab supplies or did you fabricate? I did a quick look on their site and did not see it. You are correct that they are pricey but in the end if I have to mess around with something else for hours to get it to fit. What have I saved.

We use two pieces of 1/8" x 1 1/4" flat steel bar stock. Lay out the mounting holes, bolt both to the cooler and then lay that on the V bar using the PS cooler as a reference. Mark the V bar, clean the paint off and weld it up. Series of tack welds work best since the tube is very thin. After that, the whole mess goes back in the grill. It is easier to pull the grill than break the AC condenser loose and mess with the AC recharge.

We set them up with a custom fitting I make to drop out the IN line on the right side lower port. Fluid needs to go in the bottom and out the top to prevent an air lock.

The fluid routing overall is from the trans OUT port into the radiator, OUT the radiator to the lower right side port on the cooler, OUT the upper left side cooler port to the return line back to transmission. It is easiest to mark and drill the left side air dam and take the OUT line through that.

Depending on which ports you have in the radiator, we can help convert those to AN.

 

[NskLJ]

We use two pieces of 1/8" x 1 1/4" flat steel bar stock. Lay out the mounting holes, bolt both to the cooler and then lay that on the V bar using the PS cooler as a reference. Mark the V bar, clean the paint off and weld it up. Series of tack welds work best since the tube is very thin. After that, the whole mess goes back in the grill. It is easier to pull the grill than break the AC condenser loose and mess with the AC recharge.

We set them up with a custom fitting I make to drop out the IN line on the right side lower port. Fluid needs to go in the bottom and out the top to prevent an air lock.

The fluid routing overall is from the trans OUT port into the radiator, OUT the radiator to the lower right side port on the cooler, OUT the upper left side cooler port to the return line back to transmission. It is easiest to mark and drill the left side air dam and take the OUT line through that.

Depending on which ports you have in the radiator, we can help convert those to AN.

Thank you for all the information, I will contact you if I go this route. I am in the process of collecting parts for outboard shocks and longer shocks up front, ring and pinion change and possible midarm kit. If I have he Jeep down and fenders off to do the front shock towers it would make sense to do everything at once.

 

[Dcampbell]

We use two pieces of 1/8" x 1 1/4" flat steel bar stock. Lay out the mounting holes, bolt both to the cooler and then lay that on the V bar using the PS cooler as a reference. Mark the V bar, clean the paint off and weld it up. Series of tack welds work best since the tube is very thin. After that, the whole mess goes back in the grill. It is easier to pull the grill than break the AC condenser loose and mess with the AC

We set them up with a custom fitting I make to drop out the IN line on the right side lower port. Fluid needs to go in the bottom and out the top to prevent an air lock.

The fluid routing overall is from the trans OUT port into the radiator, OUT the radiator to the lower right side port on the cooler, OUT the upper left side cooler port to the return line back to transmission. It is easiest to mark and drill the left side air dam and take the OUT line through that.

Depending on which ports you have in the radiator, we can help convert those to AN.

I placed an order for the Setrab 14 row cooler after reading your recommendations. I will be installing it on my 2000 TJ, but I’m still a little unclear on the fittings that are best to use to plumb the lines. Do you have any pictures of how you do it or the fittings I need?

 

[mrblaine]

I placed an order for the Setrab 14 row cooler after reading your recommendations. I will be installing it on my 2000 TJ, but I’m still a little unclear on the fittings that are best to use to plumb the lines. Do you have any pictures of how you do it or the fittings I need?

We just make one custom fitting for the lower side of the cooler on the right side. We have a hard time with off the shelf stuff getting it far enough over to exit the rear facing hole in the bottom of the grill when the cooler is installed with our power steering cooler above it.

I also have fairly cost effective adapters for the cooler that convert the ports to -6 male if that helps.

 

[Dcampbell]

We just make one custom fitting for the lower side of the cooler on the right side. We have a hard time with off the shelf stuff getting it far enough over to exit the rear facing hole in the bottom of the grill when the cooler is installed with our power steering cooler above it.

View attachment 411975
I also have fairly cost effective adapters for the cooler that convert the ports to -6 male if that helps.

Thank you, where can I order?

 

[mrblaine]

Thank you, where can I order?

Send me a message.