Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

OK Just so everyone can get their skivvies out of a twist and we can go on with our regularly scheduled programming I've ordered FOUR (4) aluminum axle register adapters for the TWO (2) rear axles. Yes this means I'll have 2 extras. OK are we all happy now?

Of course I'm sure something else will come up for some egg to be laid and shit to be talked about. Fucking bunnies laying eggs, DAMN
 
it's black and white to him, if it's not black, it's not right.
there are plenty of vented rear rotors out there, they just tend to be used on larger vehicles. the lines been burred by the introduction of 3/4 and 1ton axles and the brake packages they run.

i don't need a 50MM dual piston rear caliper on a 13" vented rotor, but knockin that back to "just enough" is not readily simple
 
it's black and white to him, if it's not black, it's not right.
there are plenty of vented rear rotors out there, they just tend to be used on larger vehicles. the lines been burred by the introduction of 3/4 and 1ton axles and the brake packages they run.

It's all good. IMO this is a good thing cause now I only need one type of rotor for my rig. And the Explorer rotors from TeraFlex are expensive. So I can have one spare and not have to worry about it. And I'll have a parking brake that works as well if not better than the brake in hat setup that was there before.

Today I'll get tires mounted and be checking clearances for the rear AR. Need to get busy if it's gunna be done by May.
 
Is Blaine’s really long diatribe in regards to all this?

I suspect YES but I'm sure if you asked then no. I have to sign out to read his posts so I honestly haven't been following it.

And yes I appreciate all the concern and don't want to put this thing together and wrap it around a telephone pole due to shitty brakes.
There are a FEW whom feel I don't ask question to learn things or take suggestion or advice and just do things my own way even when I've been told it's stupid or wrong. There is a long story behind all this that isn't worth getting into on here.

I'm headed out to the garage in a few to get back at it.
 
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My niece and her bf got this for me for working on his car this weekend.

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I'm amused that somebody blocks you from reading their posts, yet continues to read yours. Then takes offense to your posts and has to have a hissy fit about it. Chickenshit is the term that comes to my mind.

Keep on keeping on. Like I've said before, I look forward to updates to your build. You're as honest about the mistakes and failures as you are about the successes.
 
OK even with the upper heim cut off and a short nut installed I was still hitting the tire.
These two pictures are with about 1.5-2" of up travel still left.

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Then I installed the 1" spacers Jeff included with the rims. Now at full stuff the tire rubs but I can turn it wit some effort.

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So trying to remember some of the other threads on this subject where someone had installed a Anti-Rock in front of the axle on a TJ. I seem to remember it being discussed that the links could be lengthened to get the nut towards the top of the tire?
Of course this depends on having clearance for the arms.
 
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I'm amused that somebody blocks you from reading their posts, yet continues to read yours. Then takes offense to your posts and has to have a hissy fit about it. Chickenshit is the term that comes to my mind.

Keep on keeping on. Like I've said before, I look forward to updates to your build. You're as honest about the mistakes and failures as you are about the successes.

Thanks.

I said from the start I'd share both to try and help out others. It's definitely a process and while I enjoy it I'll be glad when it's done.
 
3" up or down could change things.
but i'm not sure how much the resting or neutral position matters as long as it can't flip around on ya at the far ends of travel..

I don't know either other than I seem to remember that it was suppose to as close to level as possible. I've got longer links coming but am wondering about making them shorter.
 
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I don't know either other than I seem to remember that it was suppose to as close to level as possible. I've got longer links coming but am wondering about making them shorter.
The only thing that changes is the amount of vertical force transmitted to the arm, thus changing the amount of torque and "anti-rock". As the angle between the arm and link changes (from 90*), that force gets smaller.

What matters in practicality is that you still have enough anti-roll and enough difference in angle to prevent the links from inverting. I'd buy some cheap 1/2" all-thread and play around with finding the right length that will still work. with the tire. You're coming from having no anti-roll bar so anything is better than nothing lol
 
it would provide the same side to side resistance to the axle/frame from any clocking position, no?
the bar controls the force by twisting until it's loaded it does nothing, i'd assume it could rest anywhere.
what i think would change is the amount of resistance adjustment offered by the different holes. once clocked funny they would not change things = to what a flatter mounting might offfer.

but i'm speculating.
 
it would provide the same side to side resistance to the axle/frame from any clocking position, no?
the bar controls the force by twisting until it's loaded it does nothing, i'd assume it could rest anywhere.
what i think would change is the amount of resistance adjustment offered by the different holes. once clocked funny they would not change things = to what a flatter mounting might offfer.

but i'm speculating.
I think it would depend on the angle of the link to the sway bar arm (90 degrees being the most supple because the leverage is highest). Imagine link-arm angle at 0 degrees (parallel): it wouldn't move at all. So, as the angle moves from 90 toward 0, the sway bar bar feels stiffer. It also feels stiffer as you shorten the arm. Unless I've completely missed something...
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator