That said, the best thing about dropping in an LS is you don't have to worry about upgrading your Dana 35...
See how this works?
lol @NashvilleTJ
Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t going to get a disease by swapping in an LS
Zone 4” Lift Install Help
- Thread starter 97SlowJeep
- Start date
Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t going to get a disease by swapping in an LS
All kidding aside, an LS in a mustang is just sacrilege!!!!!!
Man you so could have dropped in a 427 stroker.......... a Coyote......
Please at least tell me you didn't do this dis-service to a Fox Body.........
No worries. The LS is in a New Edge The ones you can find a ton of at the Pull A Part
I have a Fox (1988) but it’s getting a 460. Yup I’m probably going to regret that project.
It should be great in a straight line though 
No worries. The LS is in a New Edge The ones you can find a ton of at the Pull A Part
I have a Fox (1988) but it’s getting a 460. Yup I’m probably going to regret that project.
This is why I have to have a Jeep budget. Too many projects and they are all needy
Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t going to get a disease by swapping in an LS
Its possible every time you go to a barber you'll wind up with a mullet.... most people live full happy lives with that affliction though
Hey…how’d you get that picture?
Okay here are a few pics. I spent the last 2 hours fiddling with that dang TC linkage. You know since I have the Savvy 1.25 body lift and the TC drop on top of it, no way was it fitting with the bracket they sent. I had to make up a mullet approved bracket to go with it.
Nothing at all, actually. Just some good-natured ribbing. The Hemi guys and the LS guys here have a good time poking each other.
So….just an update on my progress. Didn’t get pics today. Got the JKS angled bracket installed. Did a test fit and it’s better but it would rub right on the tank skid. I ended up sawzalling the corner off to give clearance. I didn’t use the cut off wheel as I just didn’t have the Cahones.
Didn’t get time to set it up, but I am about an 1/8 off on one side. So looks like ratchet strap in my future.
I did get the front track bar on and got it setup pretty good. Question though, my passenger side tire is turned a little when I have the driver lined up. I played with the adjustments on both steering rods, but it seems like I cannot get them to match. What am I doing wrong? Do I adjust the lower bar first, then the drag link last to get the steering wheel straight?
Thanks
Didn’t get time to set it up, but I am about an 1/8 off on one side. So looks like ratchet strap in my future.
I did get the front track bar on and got it setup pretty good. Question though, my passenger side tire is turned a little when I have the driver lined up. I played with the adjustments on both steering rods, but it seems like I cannot get them to match. What am I doing wrong? Do I adjust the lower bar first, then the drag link last to get the steering wheel straight?
Thanks
Well I found this nice post about alignments, so I am going to attempt that sometime today. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/
Still wondering why JKS has all over the instructions about not using that angled rear track bar mount on a stock slip yoke. Is there a chance the shaft will pogo stick out and hit a small child? What is the reasoning?
Still wondering why JKS has all over the instructions about not using that angled rear track bar mount on a stock slip yoke. Is there a chance the shaft will pogo stick out and hit a small child? What is the reasoning?
Because if you don't have an sye you need to keep ujoint angles equal. Ergo tilting the axle up is a bad idea without one.
So bad idea as in how? Wear out u-joints faster? Extra vibrations? Safety issue like I noted above where the shaft will fall out?
If @TheBoogieman said he installed multiple kits the same way no SYE with angled bracket, it sounds like it works from what I gather
Honestly when I think back about how many of us lifted our trucks in the early 90’s, I’m sure we did all kinds of wrong stuff
we were high school kids with no funds.
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Oh yeah and that post about the alignment process was great! I was able to get the front end dialed in within 1/8” like it said and the wheel straight. 
Well, it happened. The driveshaft flew out and hit a small child. Just kidding
Finally got around to working more on the Jeep. Just did the heater core, so I am still in pain.
During all of this, I found out a new problem I have. Somewhere along the line my transmission shifting stopped working. So to recap, the body lift didn’t change anything…though somewhere between the suspension lift and the Tcase drop something happened.
I bought a new clutch master and slave as the one on it looked original. The pedal was hitting the floor. The new one solved that issue.
Note this is not an issue with shifter hitting the tub. So no need to go there So I thought maybe my Tcase bracket mod was causing an issue. Totally took it off and no change.
What happens is I can shift fine with engine off. I can run the engine, shift Tcase in neutral with clutch in, put back in 2H and it lets me go into any gear fine. But when it’s just sitting it totally blocks out first gear and other gears. I can break it free maybe going to 3rd or 4th, then go to other gears. Tried multiple pumping the clutch and same thing. No change at all. At times it will let me in gear and other times it will not.
My next test may be to pull the rear driveshaft. Would that be next? I would think it’s not binding up because when in gear the Jeep moves fine.
Also I would not think my clutch throw out bearing let go just sitting. When I bought the Jeep it seemed to shift okay. Just a very sloppy shifter. Again I didn’t really get to drive much as it had multiple issues I need to work out. Any ideas by chance? Thanks
Edit: Also got a great deal on a B&M shifter. Wow what a difference, but it didn’t fix the issue unfortunately.
Finally got around to working more on the Jeep. Just did the heater core, so I am still in pain.
During all of this, I found out a new problem I have. Somewhere along the line my transmission shifting stopped working. So to recap, the body lift didn’t change anything…though somewhere between the suspension lift and the Tcase drop something happened.
I bought a new clutch master and slave as the one on it looked original. The pedal was hitting the floor. The new one solved that issue.
Note this is not an issue with shifter hitting the tub. So no need to go there
So I thought maybe my Tcase bracket mod was causing an issue. Totally took it off and no change.What happens is I can shift fine with engine off. I can run the engine, shift Tcase in neutral with clutch in, put back in 2H and it lets me go into any gear fine. But when it’s just sitting it totally blocks out first gear and other gears. I can break it free maybe going to 3rd or 4th, then go to other gears. Tried multiple pumping the clutch and same thing. No change at all. At times it will let me in gear and other times it will not.
My next test may be to pull the rear driveshaft. Would that be next? I would think it’s not binding up because when in gear the Jeep moves fine.
Also I would not think my clutch throw out bearing let go just sitting. When I bought the Jeep it seemed to shift okay. Just a very sloppy shifter. Again I didn’t really get to drive much as it had multiple issues I need to work out. Any ideas by chance? Thanks
Edit: Also got a great deal on a B&M shifter. Wow what a difference, but it didn’t fix the issue unfortunately.
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So for any future readers on this thread, looks like the shifting was sort of a false alarm. I guess I had to get the Jeep moving again to help with the shifting. I also had changed the fluid as well in the trans, so maybe it needed to flow more to help. It still sometimes blocks the gears out when completely stopped, but when driving it’s easy to get around it by stopping with it in 1st.
Now as far as how it drove? It did good on a flat road, but didn’t get it over 50 with all the traffic around. Wanted to see if it would Death Wobble at all, though it did not. Bad thing is it likes to bounce around when hitting bumps. More so than I remember with my 2006 with 4” lift. From what I read is it could be camber related, so may need to check that and also I didn’t change the ball joints, so they may be in my future. It just kind of felt floaty and didn’t give that positive feeling going too fast. I am on well used tires and pressure was about 28-29psi when warm.
Also after driving with the 32’s, I think I will hold off on the 34’s. Lol Wow the 2.5 struggles.
Now as far as how it drove? It did good on a flat road, but didn’t get it over 50 with all the traffic around. Wanted to see if it would Death Wobble at all, though it did not. Bad thing is it likes to bounce around when hitting bumps. More so than I remember with my 2006 with 4” lift. From what I read is it could be camber related, so may need to check that and also I didn’t change the ball joints, so they may be in my future. It just kind of felt floaty and didn’t give that positive feeling going too fast. I am on well used tires and pressure was about 28-29psi when warm.
Also after driving with the 32’s, I think I will hold off on the 34’s. Lol Wow the 2.5 struggles.
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