Zone 4” Lift Install Help

97SlowJeep

Member
Original poster
Joined
Oct 9, 2025
Messages
32
Location
NC
Hello,

I am installing a Zone 4” lift on my TJ and have some questions. Now, just to preface all of this, I have a 2.5 that will much later get an LS swap. So I do not want to spend any extra money on the Dana 35. I have an 8.8 and Artec kit waiting to be welded up one day. Not in the near future though so plan on seeing how long this 4 cylinder will last. I also already did the Savvy 1” body lift to be ready for the LS.

Anyways, in the rear they say you need to drill out the bracket for the upper control arms to put in caster/camber bolts. Can I skip this step since I am using Core adjustable uppers and just use stock fasteners? Any recommendation on a good baseline setting?

I also bought a JKS adjustable rear Trac bar. Any numbers good for a baseline on that? Should I use the drop bracket that came with the Zone kit with the JKS?

For now I plan on using the T case drop they send if that matters. I plan on doing the SYE after I get the 8.8 in, so holding off on all that since I will need different lengths most likely on the driveshaft.

Also this will mainly be a street Jeep, so not looking to spend a ton in suspension and get that last bit of flex. Most flexing it would probably see is a pebble in the road. I plan on running JL Rubicon wheels with 34’s. Yes I know it will run like a pig and I can always go back to the 32’s if it’s that bad.

Thanks!

IMG_6414.jpeg


IMG_4973.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I believe there are 2 or 3 different JKS rear trackbars for the TJ depending on lift height and whether you're running a DC rear shaft. Do you know which of their trackbars you have?

The Zone trackbar bracket may come into play if you are setting up for a rear DC shaft which is often the case with a 4" lift. Kinda depends on what you're doing there.


As for the 2.5L, it will slowly roll on forever as long as there is oil and gasoline on this planet. Your patience with it probably will not.
 
I believe there are 2 or 3 different JKS rear trackbars for the TJ depending on lift height and whether you're running a DC rear shaft. Do you know which of their trackbars you have?

The Zone trackbar bracket may come into play if you are setting up for a rear DC shaft which is often the case with a 4" lift. Kinda depends on what you're doing there.


As for the 2.5L, it will slowly roll on forever as long as there is oil and gasoline on this planet. Your patience with it probably will not.

Thanks @JMT and @GoldenGorilla

Crap, so I may have the wrong Trac bar? I didn’t realize the difference. I bought this one without the bracket. Thanks

https://jksmfg.com/products/adjusta...e8o15AanhezQdJYYpzXOfDTNM1zjB3D_u1-nefjcpocsE


Edit: Upon seeing the instructions (bar is in route), it looks like I am okay but it notes you must have a CV shaft if using their bracket as well. Hmmm my research on the site was recommending to use both, but it seems like in this case use just the bar for now, then get the bracket once I do the SYE.
 
Last edited:
Thanks @JMT and @GoldenGorilla

Crap, so I may have the wrong Trac bar? I didn’t realize the difference. I bought this one without the bracket. Thanks

https://jksmfg.com/products/adjusta...e8o15AanhezQdJYYpzXOfDTNM1zjB3D_u1-nefjcpocsE


Edit: Upon seeing the instructions (bar is in route), it looks like I am okay but it notes you must have a CV shaft if using their bracket as well. Hmmm my research on the site was recommending to use both, but it seems like in this case use just the bar for now, then get the bracket once I do the SYE.

The axle side rear track bar brackets are great when you have enough lift or compressed shock length to need 2-2.5" of bump stop. The unfortunate thing in your case is either bracket should be welded and you will be cutting the straight one off to weld on the angled bracket when you do SYE.

JKS only makes one rear track bar. I run it and have not had any issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GATORB8
Anyways, in the rear they say you need to drill out the bracket for the upper control arms to put in caster/camber bolts. Can I skip this step since I am using Core adjustable uppers and just use stock fasteners? Any recommendation on a good baseline setting?

I also bought a JKS adjustable rear Trac bar. Any numbers good for a baseline on that? Should I use the drop bracket that came with the Zone kit with the JKS?

Here's the MC recommended starting CA lengths from MC for their 3.5 if the Zone doesn't give you any:
1760102253479.png


On the track bar, you can probably start with stock length and adjust from there if you use a bracket. If you don't, maybe start with an extra 1/2" and see how much change you need to center.
 
Sorry about that. Misremembered their offerings. They have 3 front trackbar options but one rear trackbar with a "version" that includes JKS's relocation bracket for 3-6" lifts.

I also run JKS' rear trackbar with a 2.5" lift. It's been good.

Regradless of whose relocation backet you use, the JKS trackbar will work with or without a relocation bracket up to a 6" lift. Though I can't imagine a 6" lift without a DC rear driveshaft and you need some sort of relocation bracket to make the axle end align with the frame.
 
Thanks All!

Okay so it sounds like best bet for me would be to use bar only and extend it out further for now. Until I get deeper with the 8.8 and SYE.

Up front I should have got the JKS as well, but I went with the Rough Country bar and upgraded the bushing. I am waiting on U joints so I can finish up the front. They were rusted in along with the hubs. It was a mess to get it all apart.
 
Okay, ran into another snag or 2.

So I got the arms all in on the rear. First I was wondering what are you all doing with the metal mounts for the parking cable and brake line? Are you cutting the brackets off and just tie wrapping to the upper?

Next question is the shocks. I am not sure they sent me everything I needed. Or are they expecting me to use my original rusted in top shock mount bar? Attaching pic

Thanks @GATORB8 on that chart. I was able to figure out the rear uppers needed to be set at about 14 1/4 to match the lowers they send with the Zone kit.

IMG_6423.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: GATORB8
Okay, ran into another snag or 2.

So I got the arms all in on the rear. First I was wondering what are you all doing with the metal mounts for the parking cable and brake line? Are you cutting the brackets off and just tie wrapping to the upper?

Next question is the shocks. I am not sure they sent me everything I needed. Or are they expecting me to use my original rusted in top shock mount bar? Attaching pic

Thanks @GATORB8 on that chart. I was able to figure out the rear uppers needed to be set at about 14 1/4 to match the lowers they send with the Zone kit.

View attachment 649232

Interesting on the shocks, #20 says it should already have the bar pin in one end.
 
Okay, ran into another snag or 2.

So I got the arms all in on the rear. First I was wondering what are you all doing with the metal mounts for the parking cable and brake line? Are you cutting the brackets off and just tie wrapping to the upper?

Next question is the shocks. I am not sure they sent me everything I needed. Or are they expecting me to use my original rusted in top shock mount bar? Attaching pic

Thanks @GATORB8 on that chart. I was able to figure out the rear uppers needed to be set at about 14 1/4 to match the lowers they send with the Zone kit.

View attachment 649232

You reuse your old bar pins since the shocks fit many applications, not just a TJ.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Cooper
Well I think I have a bigger problem. I just checked the part numbers and they sent me front shocks for a JL to go on the rear. Bad thing is I bought this kit at Summit last year sometime. Looks like they would be too long maybe? Already have the bar pin eliminator on the way. Should I just pick up some Rancho RS5000s for the rear instead?

IMG_6429.jpeg
 
Well I think I have a bigger problem. I just checked the part numbers and they sent me front shocks for a JL to go on the rear. Bad thing is I bought this kit at Summit last year sometime. Looks like they would be too long maybe? Already have the bar pin eliminator on the way. Should I just pick up some Rancho RS5000s for the rear instead?

View attachment 649855

The lengths are on there first glance, they look short for the JL.
 
I was also looking at the Black Max shocks and I found something interesting. They measure about 25” extended and 15” collapsed. Those JL shocks measure 26” extended and 15.65” collapsed. I read those bar eliminators remove 1” of travel. Could I actually run those JL shocks or no way?
 
The lengths are on there first glance, they look short for the JL.

Just saw your comment after I posted. Okay I will get out and measure the shocks when I get the chance and see what they come up with. I mean if they are safe I will go ahead and slap them on for now. I knew eventually I would upgrade those, but was hoping they would at least last a little bit. 😄
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
Well, no matter what I measured, nothing would match the size on the box. I compared to the front Zone shocks and the body is much longer. Compared to the original rears and it’s a big difference.

To be safe I went ahead and ordered 2 rear Black Max shocks on Amazon. About $50 each so figured what the hell. Maybe I can return that bar eliminator or hold onto it for later.

Also it was Jegs, not Summit I bought from early last year
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
I'm happy with my rear black maxes but I blew up three sets. Overloaded the Jeep once, and then failed to clearance my lower spring perches and then failed to tighten my adjustable control arms enough allowing the axle to rotate into making contact with stuff. My wife rear ended me once...so technically she's responsible for the fourth.

Cycling your suspension is key. Setting up bump stops is critical.

I ended up outboarding because after fighting all of those issues it seemed that was the easiest and most definitive solution.

-Mac
 
I'm happy with my rear black maxes but I blew up three sets. Overloaded the Jeep once, and then failed to clearance my lower spring perches and then failed to tighten my adjustable control arms enough allowing the axle to rotate into making contact with stuff. My wife rear ended me once...so technically she's responsible for the fourth.

Cycling your suspension is key. Setting up bump stops is critical.

I ended up outboarding because after fighting all of those issues it seemed that was the easiest and most definitive solution.

-Mac

Oh no. Sorry to hear that @macleanflood. I did some researching this morning and read bout the Ranchos and the KYBs. In the end it seemed like the Black Max from what I saw gave the best ride. Mine is a soft top with half doors, so I should be on the light side. 😄 After I saw the complaints about the Zone Nitro shocks I figured may as well get something better now. Later on I will change the fronts, but this should get me safely by for now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
Just some progress pics today. I was able to get the front back on the ground. 😀 I’m not putting the Rubicon wheels on just yet, as it’s going to be close to get it out of my building with just the 32s

IMG_6431.jpeg


IMG_6432.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Cooper