On the crown kit the tie rod would have to be replaced if the joint went bad where it connects to the drag link, I can't speak for other kits.
Check the post #1.
Yep, understood this is an all or nothing swap if you choose to upgrade the Tie Rod (also understand the drag link situation).
Yeap, cost is pretty similar thats why it's highly recommended to do this mod. There is no reason to buy a new stock TJ tie rod. Just buy a beefier one. Especially if you off road it, and you have upgraded your tires to a bigger size than stock.
Attached is a few photos. It seems the tie rod is contacting the sway bar link at full steer. I didn’t notice til today when I started to look in to where to hang the links when disconnected (let’s leave that discussion for another time)
Wait. Do I just turn the stud 90 degrees so it clears? It’s pouring out so I’ll let you knowAlong with my 4” lift this weekend O installed the is ZJ “kit”. I purchased all NAPA parts because that’s what I do often.
Photos are of straight wheels then last photo of full turn right
What do you see??
thanks
View attachment 258098
View attachment 258103
View attachment 258104
Is that damper truly a PIA? Mine is on the way. Say bar links first then damper.
Quick question and maybe it's covered more in here, I've gone through a bunch of the the posts but not all 23 pages. I am replacing the sway bar bushings and the links. I also ordered the Steering stabilizer, but think I'll wait until I order the rest of the parts. If I'm not mistaken, the stabilizer goes to the drag link and if my other reading is correct, sometimes that connection is a PIA to break loose. I might try it and if so wait until I get the rest. My stabilizer will be here Friday with the sway bar parts.
It can be a PIA for sure. Pickle fork, PB, TRE seperator, and heat are all your friends here. Since it sounds like you're replacing everything all at once like you should, go to town on it. You aren't saving it for anything, so beat it until it complies.
Correct
Correct
Yes, they will fit. It's been a bit since I did this, but the only part you should avoid is the ZJ's drag link (which you already seem to have covered based on the first part of your post). I read your questions quickly, but it looks like you're ready to go. Good luck and ask questions if you need help.
Before you pull the old steering out, be sure to measure it. You'll need to use that measurement to "rough-in" the new parts.
Yeah, I'll get those measurement, but I also read the thread about how to align these and that seems super easy as well. Thanks!
I have the damper on hand, I am just getting ready to place the order for the rest of parts. I'm kind of debating holding off or going for it, so that we can feel the difference on what each section of parts does prior to replacing everything. Kind of let my daughter see how it feels, so when she starts driving she can know what she's looking for in the future. I guess I see if the old will easily pop loose at the drag link and if so go for it. Surely a newly installed piece would pop off easily within a week or two! Not sure if this logic is sound or not!
I say replace it all at once. Therefore if you need a pro alignment it gets done once. Also when buying all new there is no reusing or remove of damper stud. My damper came with all new hardware. Much easier.
I say replace it all at once. Therefore if you need a pro alignment it gets done once. Also when buying all new there is no reusing or remove of damper stud. My damper came with all new hardware. Much easier.
After looking at everything under the jeep again, I think I see my confusion about the tie rod ends. The end on the stock Drag link at the pitman arm is already larger than the stock end on the Tie Rod Assembly. So if I'm correct and reading everything correctly, I just order 2 of the ends that attach to the Pitman arm and use the 2nd one at the front left spindle. The ZJ Bar has the other end, whereas the stock TJ needs two ends that are smaller than the pitman end.
