Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Yet another brake bleeding question

TJosh02

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
339
Location
Toronto
Sorry, I have read most of all the posts, especially Mr. Blaine's, but still have a question. I suspect I may know the answer, but want some assurance I am not off the rails.

I had a major mishap, that you can read about in another thread. Well, I am still working through an entire rebuilt after basically not touching the brakes over the last 9 months...after not quite finishing.

I've replaced everything but two sections of the hard-lines and the combo valve. I couldn't find a good source of new combo valve and the used one I have looks rough (although the internals might be ok). I've bled the system many times. I bench bled the master a few times too, so I think I get the process, but I am still having a issue with soft brakes.

When I bleed the system, I start at passenger rear > driver rear > passenger front > driver front. I am not longer getting any air out of the system at any corner. Key on, but engine off. Brakes feel proper resistant. No leaks anywhere (looked extensively). Using the lock-out tool. Turn the engine on, cap on, brakes go super soft and no stopping the front with brake to floor. Its on jack stands, the rears grab, the front don't.

When I tried with the electric sensor plug, instead of the lock out, the brake light came on and no amount of slamming on the brakes let it off, so I took it apart and reset it manually and used the lock out, but still no front brakes when engine on. Does that mean my combo valve is pooched? I ordered one on Amazon, but wanted to know if I am barking up the right tree.
 
Well I literally just went through a braking nightmare and it turned out the brake booster pushrod was too long, I was getting symptoms of not being bled, while it worked great with the old master it was extended twice as much as needed for the replacement master.

Pull the master, remove the rubber gasket and put the master back on the booster, the gap between the master and the booster should be ~.030". I've seen Blaine say 0.00-0.060" gap.
 
When I tried with the electric sensor plug, instead of the lock out, the brake light came on and no amount of slamming on the brakes let it off, so I took it apart and reset it manually and used the lock out, but still no front brakes when engine on. Does that mean my combo valve is pooched? I ordered one on Amazon, but wanted to know if I am barking up the right tree.
The spring plunger in the switch stops the shuttle from moving. If the valve were messed up, it would have to be related to the spring tension. It won't hurt anything to drive it with the lock out tool in place to diagnose the system. Make sure the shuttle is centered though or you might die.
 
Evidence

20250625_203753.jpg
 
  • Face Palm
  • Haha
Reactions: lBasket and cpwolf
Well there was a 50/50 chance of installing them the right direction. Luck of the draw which one you installed first.

Whenever there is a 50/50 chance of installing something right, I have a 98% chance of installing it wrong. Which is why I always read the instructions, which improves my chances of getting it right (without a full guarantee, of course). ;)
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator