Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Wrangler TJ Ball Joint Replacement

To ease up on the credit card I am going to get a loaner press kit from autozone. Does anyone have any idea if the wrangler angled adapter is typically in the loaner kit?

No, it’s not typically in the loaner kit. It would be a terrible PITA without it since it’s a PITA with it.
 
Thanks for another awesome thread, that video is going to come in handy.
Ball joints are here, ordered the Timken bearings and new u-joints so I can do all the things in one fell swoop (regardless if the originals are bad beyond the BJs)

To ease up on the credit card I am going to get a loaner press kit from autozone. Does anyone have any idea if the wrangler angled adapter is typically in the loaner kit? I do not wheel very often and these are the original components (~70K on my 2006 Rubi) so not attracted to purchasing the press stuff (despite appreciating new tools)

Did ball joints a month ago and same debate over easing up on spending vs getting new tools. Ended up renting - AutoZone kit did not have adapter but the Powerbuilt 23 piece kit from Advance did. This one:

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We successfully used that one, but would make sure to count pieces at pickup to be sure they’re all in the case next time.
 
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The tolerances are very close, so you really need the right tools for this job.
 
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Hi y'all, I have an 02 TJ, the knuckles do not use the ball joint adapter that the spicer 706944X comes with. The upper ball joint nut will not tighten in the stock Dana 30 knuckle. What spicer part # for the proper upper ball joint do I need?
 
Reading this whole thread and noticed not one mention of any particular brand outside of Spicer when it comes to balljoints, so I'm assuming most people just stick with that.

Was curious about that, in the other realms I hang out in like truck land there are a lot of aftermarket options for upgraded balljoints.
 
Reading this whole thread and noticed not one mention of any particular brand outside of Spicer when it comes to balljoints, so I'm assuming most people just stick with that.

Was curious about that, in the other realms I hang out in like truck land there are a lot of aftermarket options for upgraded balljoints.

There are definitely options for "HD" ball joints , they just suck compared to spicer
 
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I'll take some today.

that is as far as the top nut will thread. The ball joint bolt runs out of threads. I have an aftermarket G2 Dana 44 axle, and am trying to use the stock Dana 30 knuckles. These knuckles do not use the threaded adapters that come with the spicer ball joints. These knuckles install on the old Dana 30 no problem. Do I need to buy new knuckles? Or, is there a fixed ball joint I can use? I know its probably an easy fix/stupid question, but I am lost. :(

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that is as far as the top nut will thread. The ball joint bolt runs out of threads. I have an aftermarket G2 Dana 44 axle, and am trying to use the stock Dana 30 knuckles. These knuckles do not use the threaded adapters that come with the spicer ball joints. These knuckles install on the old Dana 30 no problem. Do I need to buy new knuckles? Or, is there a fixed ball joint I can use? I know its probably an easy fix/stupid question, but I am lost. :(

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I'm still confused. Are you trying to make that gap above the top of the knuckle go away?
 
I'm still confused. Are you trying to make that gap above the top of the knuckle go away?

Be careful, he is a Virgo

"often under the impression that they’re the best person to do it all. And if that belief gets challenged, they’ll push back and become stubborn (non-Virgos, you’ve been warned!). On the other hand, striving for perfection can often wear this sign down."
 
LOL, yeah, I'm a virgo. The gap between the top of the knuckle and C is due to the "bolt" from the knuckle pulling too far into the hole in the knuckle I think. Or, do I make up the bottom nut, torque it, and then just get the top nut to line up with the cotter pin hole and let it hang? It's the same on the drivers side too.
 
LOL, yeah, I'm a virgo. The gap between the top of the knuckle and C is due to the "bolt" from the knuckle pulling too far into the hole in the knuckle I think. Or, do I make up the bottom nut, torque it, and then just get the top nut to line up with the cotter pin hole and let it hang? It's the same on the drivers side too.

Do the dust boot move up and down a bit?
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator