What frame paints for longer shelf life?

[Imagineer]

In the next several weeks, I’ll be (again) working under my TJ (body mounts). While under there, I am hoping to needle-scale the rusted areas in preparation for paint.

Whereas just about every bit of surface area under this Jeep is heavily rusted, I’m not going to tackle it all at the same time, rather I’m planning on hitting the areas where I’ll be working and eventually, cover the whole thing.

My go-to ‘paint-over-rust’ product has been POR-15, but since this time I’ll be stretching the painting out over a month or so, I’m concerned about shelf life after the can has been opened. Some products start to cure the moment the paint is exposed to air & humidity.

What products have folks used for frame paint that lasts in the can after it’s bene opened?

 

[Chris]

In the next several weeks, I’ll be (again) working under my TJ (body mounts). While under there, I am hoping to needle-scale the rusted areas in preparation for paint.

Whereas just about every bit of surface area under this Jeep is heavily rusted, I’m not going to tackle it all at the same time, rather I’m planning on hitting the areas where I’ll be working and eventually, cover the whole thing.

My go-to ‘paint-over-rust’ product has been POR-15, but since this time I’ll be stretching the painting out over a month or so, I’m concerned about shelf life after the can has been opened. Some products start to cure the moment the paint is exposed to air & humidity.

What products have folks used for frame paint that lasts in the can after it’s bene opened?

Generally speaking, once opened, rust-encapsulating paints like POR-15 can start to cure when exposed to air, especially if not properly sealed after use.

If you seal it well after using it, it may last long enough but it's a gamble. I'd buy smaller cans so you can do sections at a time.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I only use Rust-Oleum spray can paint for my frames.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

My gut instinct would say - can you remove the rust and treat it and then do the painting all at once?

I'd recommend a phosphoric acid etch like Eastwood fast etch, but this isn't a thing where you spry it on and then go drive. Even if you can't get all the rust, this acts like zinc to react with the iron creating a compound that provides some protection from oxidation. It would protect the unpainted frame if it's going to stay up on stands even outdoors while you work on different parts. You don't want it on your skin, lungs or eyes and it will react with and "bleach" concrete.

 

[SSTJ]

For shelf life, I wonder if you'd be better off with a spray-can product? Eastwood, for example? But definitely more expensive that way.

 

[Thedogsbollocks]

I cannot get on with Rustolium , their nozzles are useless. I don’t have any issues with other brands and had to dump so many Rustolium half full cans.
Anyway , encapsulator from Eastwood is very good.

 

[Imagineer]

I'd like to avoid using aerosol (too much wasted product).

In the past, I did an F150 frame using Rust oleum thinned 50% with acetone. When brushed on, the 1st coat capillaried into all the nooks and crannies and after a 2nd coat, yielded good results. I'll do something similar this time, I just want to use a better paint product.