What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
Tighten it until it breaks, then back off a quarter turn...
That's what NTB does with my lug nuts when I let them service my vehicles. Then, they blame me.
That's what NTB does with my lug nuts when I let them service my vehicles. Then, they blame me.
See? "Professional" technique!
Both were replaced. Passenger one was replaced again today since it was leaking... it leaked again from the bleeder but a Dorman speed bleeder with that thread sealant on it fixed it up.
New headlights today after the 2nd round of caliper replacement. KC halogen lights pretty much anything is gonna be better than the old sealed beams in there. Gonna get them aimed eventually before driving it at night.
Last week when I installed the new KC fog lites, I noticed that the front turn signals looked VERY tired...
Ordered some new ones from Warrior Woman, new on left, old on right::
Looks as lot better:
Overall view:
Ordered some new ones from Warrior Woman, new on left, old on right::
Looks as lot better:
Overall view:
Thank you for NOT using a China LED in your TJ.
I feel like my aversion to LED lights is kind like Zorbas to PHOOOOOONNEs.
Don't get me wrong, there are many applications where they work awesome- but at what cost?
OEM LED headlights are great for seeing things better at night.
Unless you're the oncoming driver, then they just blind you.
And folks with LED lights seem to think they need that extra bit of light right up until they are within 50 feet from oncoming traffic.
Meanwhile, said oncoming driver hasn't been able see anything for the last quarter of a mile and just prays he's still in his own lane.
Aftermarket headlights are freaking awesome if all you want to accomplish is making sure other drivers can't see for 5 minutes after they pass you.
They absolutely SUCK at actually lighting up the road. Most quality Halogens (like, hopefully, your KCs) will light up the road much better than a comparable LED.
Oh, and dont get me started on the $10 "lasts for 10 years" LED garage bulb that goes bad 6 months later, or even worse is the screw in 10 bazllion lumen "bulb" with the fold down leaves that you pay +$50 for.
Same "it'll last forever" claim and a year later it goes out...
So, before I get roasted for this post let me say that it is somewhat tongue in cheek.
Kinda like kidding on the level.
I really do deplore them but understand that some people of a lower IQ do seem to like them.
Kiwi TJ
Just asked myself if I’m crazy and we all said No
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Thank you for NOT using a China LED in your TJ.
I feel like my aversion to LED lights is kind like Zorbas to PHOOOOOONNEs.
Don't get me wrong, there are many applications where they work awesome- but at what cost?
OEM LED headlights are great for seeing things better at night.
Unless you're the oncoming driver, then they just blind you.
And folks with LED lights seem to think they need that extra bit of light right up until they are within 50 feet from oncoming traffic.
Meanwhile, said oncoming driver hasn't been able see anything for the last quarter of a mile and just prays he's still in his own lane.
Aftermarket headlights are freaking awesome if all you want to accomplish is making sure other drivers can't see for 5 minutes after they pass you.
They absolutely SUCK at actually lighting up the road. Most quality Halogens (like, hopefully, your KCs) will light up the road much better than a comparable LED.
Oh, and dont get me started on the $10 "lasts for 10 years" LED garage bulb that goes bad 6 months later, or even worse is the screw in 10 bazllion lumen "bulb" with the fold down leaves that you pay +$50 for.
Same "it'll last forever" claim and a year later it goes out...
So, before I get roasted for this post let me say that it is somewhat tongue in cheek.
Kinda like kidding on the level.
I really do deplore them but understand that some people of a lower IQ do seem to like them.
I bet you feel better now you have that off ya chest aye ??
( I do agree with everything you said though)
Thank you for NOT using a China LED in your TJ.
I feel like my aversion to LED lights is kind like Zorbas to PHOOOOOONNEs.
Don't get me wrong, there are many applications where they work awesome- but at what cost?
OEM LED headlights are great for seeing things better at night.
Unless you're the oncoming driver, then they just blind you.
And folks with LED lights seem to think they need that extra bit of light right up until they are within 50 feet from oncoming traffic.
Meanwhile, said oncoming driver hasn't been able see anything for the last quarter of a mile and just prays he's still in his own lane.
Aftermarket headlights are freaking awesome if all you want to accomplish is making sure other drivers can't see for 5 minutes after they pass you.
They absolutely SUCK at actually lighting up the road. Most quality Halogens (like, hopefully, your KCs) will light up the road much better than a comparable LED.
Oh, and dont get me started on the $10 "lasts for 10 years" LED garage bulb that goes bad 6 months later, or even worse is the screw in 10 bazllion lumen "bulb" with the fold down leaves that you pay +$50 for.
Same "it'll last forever" claim and a year later it goes out...
So, before I get roasted for this post let me say that it is somewhat tongue in cheek.
Kinda like kidding on the level.
I really do deplore them but understand that some people of a lower IQ do seem to like them.
Oh I am not an LED fan at all. Recently replaced all my lights at home back to incandescent and have been purging LED as much as I can. Full spectrum light all the way.
My Mazda has LED lights factory and it’s great being a sedan so it’s low to the ground. I see all these huge trucks around here with LEDs that burn a hole through my side mirrors with how bright they are.
When I start to install offroad lights I 100% do plan on using LED lights it’s just hard to beat the electrical load to light output for offroad applications. I actually think these were Hella lights now I can’t remember
Finally got my engine rebuild back in. Ground the crank, new bearings, .030" over, pistons rings, new valves, springs, guides, new cam, seals, rockers, clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, oil pump and water pump. New brakes, shocks, bumpers, flat screen radio, fixed the heater vacuum, fixed AC, LED lights and more stuff. In case someone wonders about $750 for all the engine parts (good ones) and the cost to grind the crank. I machined the block myself.
Started in about one turnover. Great oil pressure even at idle. Engine is now quiet and seems to have about 15% more power. Blow-by gone. Must be nice to it for 500 to 1000 miles. Have break in oil right now and the cam break in additive. Will change that to Mobil 1 at 1000 miles. Still have to pull the fuel tank to service or replace the pump. Thinking of playing with a turbo-charger next. I did fit the rings for that.
Got some good information off the forum for the project. My 4 squirrels are happy now.
Started in about one turnover. Great oil pressure even at idle. Engine is now quiet and seems to have about 15% more power. Blow-by gone. Must be nice to it for 500 to 1000 miles. Have break in oil right now and the cam break in additive. Will change that to Mobil 1 at 1000 miles. Still have to pull the fuel tank to service or replace the pump. Thinking of playing with a turbo-charger next. I did fit the rings for that.
Got some good information off the forum for the project. My 4 squirrels are happy now.
Attachments
Did you recently quit smoking or drinking? Both?Thank you for NOT using a China LED in your TJ.
I feel like my aversion to LED lights is kind like Zorbas to PHOOOOOONNEs.
Don't get me wrong, there are many applications where they work awesome- but at what cost?
OEM LED headlights are great for seeing things better at night.
Unless you're the oncoming driver, then they just blind you.
And folks with LED lights seem to think they need that extra bit of light right up until they are within 50 feet from oncoming traffic.
Meanwhile, said oncoming driver hasn't been able see anything for the last quarter of a mile and just prays he's still in his own lane.
Aftermarket headlights are freaking awesome if all you want to accomplish is making sure other drivers can't see for 5 minutes after they pass you.
They absolutely SUCK at actually lighting up the road. Most quality Halogens (like, hopefully, your KCs) will light up the road much better than a comparable LED.
Oh, and dont get me started on the $10 "lasts for 10 years" LED garage bulb that goes bad 6 months later, or even worse is the screw in 10 bazllion lumen "bulb" with the fold down leaves that you pay +$50 for.
Same "it'll last forever" claim and a year later it goes out...
So, before I get roasted for this post let me say that it is somewhat tongue in cheek.
Kinda like kidding on the level.
I really do deplore them but understand that some people of a lower IQ do seem to like them.
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Had to get back into the drums to fix the adjuster lever that was dragging against the drum. Even with changing the spring connection and adding that C clamp, its still not tight against the adjuster like the passenger side. Crappy chinese parts I guess. Figure its so close that as the drums wear it'll work itself out.
Driver side:
Passenger:
Driver side:
Passenger:
Interesting follow up on this one. I recently removed and trashed this battery mat.
I did my oil change in early November and I noticed some battery terminal corrosion. The corrosion was really only on the positive terminal, minimal on the negative. I popped off the terminals, used some spray cleaner and a wire brush to clean them both. Greased the terminals and reconnected everything and went on with life.
I checked it a couple weeks later and the corrosion was already back, not as much, but growing. Again, only on the positive terminal. I also noticed my clock was running minutes fast. (Something it had never done either.) I took both (corrosion only on the positive terminal and fast clock) as signs that maybe the alternator was pushing out too much power.
I imagine the battery temperature sensor on the bottom was reading too low a temperature and the ECU sent more power to compensate. I took out the battery. Pitched the mat. Completely removed the battery terminals for a thorough spray and wire brush cleaning. Reinstalled the battery and used the under-terminal felt pads and re-greased the terminals.
So far, no corrosion buildup and the clock is right on with the NIST clock I used to set it.
Kiwi TJ
Just asked myself if I’m crazy and we all said No
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Is this a good time to mention the actress (Lucy Lawless) was born and raised in New Zealand. ?
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