For some reason I thought it was supposed to fit several others as well. Don't know where/how I got that idea. Still, it beats what was on my winch before. The bowing up makes it stronger! Yea, that's it!
Warn M8000 reconditioned tips
- Thread starter cpwolf
- Start date
For some reason I thought it was supposed to fit several others as well. Don't know where/how I got that idea. Still, it beats what was on my winch before. The bowing up makes it stronger! Yea, that's it!
So I’m watching a guy replace with this on YouTube, says it’s an Albright solenoid or something , and that’s it’s water tight?
But, now says discontinued, and it wouldn’t neeed a bracket at all, replaced the bracket and the two posts. Is this in another product available now?
Alright, I’m reading, Albright Contactor, which is NOT a solenoid, ha.
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Apologies for just getting back to this. Life, work, and finally have all the Savvy Projects on my TJ.
Blackjack, I'm going to test this Winch, and up front will admit I'm ignorant on this. I have a battery easy to connect and test with using jumper cables, and will do that this week.
I pulled the cover off the pack, and it's got rusted items, but doesn't look crazy bad. I'll get all of it cleaned up. To test, where do I connect the Pos and Neg to this? Also, to test, do I need the small wires connected? There are two, one's on a post in the pack, one was run out of the pack. I would think that's a ground, but it's got a red end on it, so I wanted to ask first.
Strangely, I've searched the web, and on Warn's site, none of their instructions show where to connect these, and I want to ask first and not connect and blow something by being an idiot.
On the bracket, I still haven't seen one with good reviews for sale, will get back to that.
I believe this is accurate, the battery positive connects where this pic states. Negative on the bottom motor housing bolt (which is not there).
Looks like that's a M8 x 1.25 shorter bolt.
The smaller wires are the ones I'm not sure where or how they are connected. Looks like there is one under the battery positive in the picture I found.
Mine looks like one small wire is on where the battery positive would go, and the other is longer, not sure where that would connect. And do they need to be connected to do a bench test.
Looks like that's a M8 x 1.25 shorter bolt.
The smaller wires are the ones I'm not sure where or how they are connected. Looks like there is one under the battery positive in the picture I found.
Mine looks like one small wire is on where the battery positive would go, and the other is longer, not sure where that would connect. And do they need to be connected to do a bench test.
That is a
That is some interesting corrosion like it was very hot when it was exposed to moisture.
You are on the correct track for your connections. The small white wire is bat positive and the black goes to the motor ground. The will need to be connected to test the control pack. If you want to test the motor alone you disconnect the pack, run a jumper between one of the F terminal to the A and then put battery positive to the other F terminal and then bat neg to the ground bolt.
we are in Texas, hit the surface of the sun here in August , ha. I don’t think that’s what you mean.
I dropped all the rusted nuts in EvapoRust for a few days. I figure I’ll clean all of them Now.
Then see how it reacts. If nothing, I’ll test the motor separately if needed.
Thanks for the direction.
So the white I circled and it’s on the right spot then.
The other goes on the ground bolt, some reason the end is red where i put the arrow, and had me questioning. All good. I might put some black heat shrink to make it good and black ha.
So I tested the motor. It works correctly, it goes in and out with a jumper and battery connections.
Connecting to the control box, it doesn’t work right. I’ll need to start pulling and cleaning some connections to see unless you see another option.
@Blackjack have you seen a control do this, and is that fixable?
I'm looking, and I think it's doing the opposite of what the control says as well when it does work.
Quick Update fix:
I installed the F1 and F2 backwards on the motor after testing, this video it still has an issue, but it's going the correct way.
Mistake actually shows that it's one electronic in the controller or box that has an issue not the motor direction. Still does a lot of clicking.
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Looks like I can just get these 4 solenoid packs and should be able to test out the winch controller etc.
I can bench test the solenoids I take out for continuity and see if I keep any for a part backup.
https://www.amazon.com/ApplianPar-Solenoid-XD9000-XC9000i-VR10000/dp/B0B8NJVS6T/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I can bench test the solenoids I take out for continuity and see if I keep any for a part backup.
https://www.amazon.com/ApplianPar-Solenoid-XD9000-XC9000i-VR10000/dp/B0B8NJVS6T/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Hmm, found solenoids, on the way.
I’m not seeing a Warn toggle.
Any specific you suggest?
I use a Tectran 19-1021q but any quality monetary on/off/on with 6 blades will work.
This is awesome, thank you. I marked all of the wires, but this is good to have.
I should have all I need this evening and put it back together to test. Except the toggle switch,
Okay, so I did the following:
1. Four new Solenoid Relays with new nuts and lock washers from Amazon (wanted them quick)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8NJVS6T?tag=wranglerorg-20
2. Got a new connector cover.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCS8626?tag=wranglerorg-20
3. Cleaned up the cover of the solenoid control box, and used Flood Penetrol all over it. My TJ is black, kind of going with all black so I left the cover just plain black M.
3. Painted all the hardware Semi Flat black, and got a thumbscrew for the front connector to match the back two.
4. Cleaned up any wiring and rewired it.
5. Took out T50 and any other bolts and set them in EvapoRust and they look like new.
Tested and bam, works like new.
So $200 for the Warn M8000
$53 for new Solenoid Relays
$17 for new controller cover
So $270 and the Winch looks super clean. Paint is all good. Warn sent new stickers, I’ll hold for now.
I may come back in the future and paint the entire case black, but for now it looks great. Thanks for the tips and now I have 2 spare relays that tested good will be in the parts backup.
1. Four new Solenoid Relays with new nuts and lock washers from Amazon (wanted them quick)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8NJVS6T?tag=wranglerorg-20
2. Got a new connector cover.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCS8626?tag=wranglerorg-20
3. Cleaned up the cover of the solenoid control box, and used Flood Penetrol all over it. My TJ is black, kind of going with all black so I left the cover just plain black M.
3. Painted all the hardware Semi Flat black, and got a thumbscrew for the front connector to match the back two.
4. Cleaned up any wiring and rewired it.
5. Took out T50 and any other bolts and set them in EvapoRust and they look like new.
Tested and bam, works like new.
So $200 for the Warn M8000
$53 for new Solenoid Relays
$17 for new controller cover
So $270 and the Winch looks super clean. Paint is all good. Warn sent new stickers, I’ll hold for now.
I may come back in the future and paint the entire case black, but for now it looks great. Thanks for the tips and now I have 2 spare relays that tested good will be in the parts backup.
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