Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Transmission cooler hoses part number

littlemike777

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Nov 20, 2025
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Alabama
Hello folks. I have searched for this and can’t find anything straightforward. I have ‘04 TJ bought about 2 years ago, still finding things the previous owner did, I.e., Geri rigging etc.
Driving today started smelling burning, smoking, didn’t smell like engine oil or radiator, stopped but couldn’t find anything. Then started getting transmission slipping and barely would go. No fluid on the dipstick. I had a quart of fluid with me, put it in and made it to O’Riellys and bought some more, added a quart and that got it to top end of the dipstick. Started driving trying to make it home, about 4 miles from there slipping really bad but I could not pull off the road, very little shoulder and deep ditches on both sides in the middle of nowhere. Kept going, engine rev, then trans would engage briefly for another 50 yards or so. Did this for about a mile until I could pull over and call for a tow.
Got under it when I got home and saw one of the hoses from the trans to the radiator was a plain rubber hose, not preformed and was very close to the main fan pulley , only about an inch clearance between the hose and the pulley. Apparently vibration caused it to rub a hole in the hose, pulled the fluid out and fan blew it everywhere. Likely transmission is shot but I’m praying not.
I’m trying to find the proper hoses that go from the radiator to the steel lines , I assume they are preformed or routed in such a way to avoid being that close to the pulley, but I can’t find part numbers or good diagrams. I will get another plain old hose tomorrow on it and fill the fluid just to test and see if the transmission is fried but I need to have the right hoses and correct routing so this doesn’t happen again.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
 
Sounds like she was running low on fluid for a bit to long.

I learned years ago that transmissions ain’t hard to deal with when it comes to internals. The tricky part is the electrical.
If you burned it up you have 2 options.
1) Used replacement
2) Rebuild

My crack head brother in-law had been doing it for most of his adult life and the more digging I did the more I found most transmission folks were on par.
Since I had rebuilt more then my share of ZF transmissions I figured why not give this a go. All that’s needed is some snap ring tools and large feeler gauges. You can pick this all up fairly cheap and replace the clutch packs and sun shell yourself if you want to save a few bucks. You will be under $1,000 for a full rebuild, rebuilt torque converter and a hand full of parts From Sonax.
This is a prime time to rebuild the transfer case as well, but that will be additional cost. If anything, at least do a drain and fill on that poor bastard.

If you want to get replacements hoses, pull the OEM lines, cut the clamps off very carefully not to damage the old lines. Once the rubber is removed, drive up to an auto parts store and they will take you in the back to look at hoses. Find oil line that fits good on that line. Usually 11/32 braided fits snug, but play around with the inventory and see what fits snug.
Since no one will stock good clamps, order some good hose clamps to hold on the new hose to the lines.

If you pick up a rebuilt, take the old one and learn on it as it may be needed.

Last note, keep and eye on that fluid and keep it cool.
 
Sounds like she was running low on fluid for a bit to long.

I learned years ago that transmissions ain’t hard to deal with when it comes to internals. The tricky part is the electrical.
If you burned it up you have 2 options.
1) Used replacement
2) Rebuild

My crack head brother in-law had been doing it for most of his adult life and the more digging I did the more I found most transmission folks were on par.
Since I had rebuilt more then my share of ZF transmissions I figured why not give this a go. All that’s needed is some snap ring tools and large feeler gauges. You can pick this all up fairly cheap and replace the clutch packs and sun shell yourself if you want to save a few bucks. You will be under $1,000 for a full rebuild, rebuilt torque converter and a hand full of parts From Sonax.
This is a prime time to rebuild the transfer case as well, but that will be additional cost. If anything, at least do a drain and fill on that poor bastard.

If you want to get replacements hoses, pull the OEM lines, cut the clamps off very carefully not to damage the old lines. Once the rubber is removed, drive up to an auto parts store and they will take you in the back to look at hoses. Find oil line that fits good on that line. Usually 11/32 braided fits snug, but play around with the inventory and see what fits snug.
Since no one will stock good clamps, order some good hose clamps to hold on the new hose to the lines.

If you pick up a rebuilt, take the old one and learn on it as it may be needed.

Last note, keep and eye on that fluid and keep it cool.

I appreciate the insight. I’m fairly handy and willing to learn new things but rebuilding a transmission might be too big a step right now. I think I may have dodged that bullet this time anyway. I put a new hose on it today extra long and routed it out of the way of the pulley and fan and tied it off temporarily with zip ties until I get the right parts to do it properly. Put 3 quarts of fluid in it, cranked it let it run, shifted into R and D in and out without driving for starters , it went into gear smoothly. So put in D and let it creep along with giving it gas. Seemed ok so I drove it around the block, no issue. Then drove about 5 miles. Maybe I’m clear for now; didn’t need to spend another pile of money on a non daily driver especially.
 
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I wish you would do a few 42RLE versions, replace a few bad transmission cases under warranty that you missed and maybe then you might not be as enthusiastic.

I wish I would as well, although I did miss that he said he had an 04. But I stand by my comments that the rebuild itself is easier than most people think.

I would love to know what it is about the cases ends up causing so many problems, though. Eventually I'll have one (maybe soon even!) and I would like to know what to even look for.
 
But I stand by my comments that the rebuild itself is easier than most people think.
And I think that designing good high quality products that cover a wide range of applications is easier than most people think it is, but I'm good at it.
Notice any similarities about how easy it is to make other folks smarter than they are?
 
And I think that designing good high quality products that cover a wide range of applications is easier than most people think it is, but I'm good at it.
Notice any similarities about how easy it is to make other folks smarter than they are?

By your logic then we should never encourage people to do things they think might be too challenging. I'm not really sure what point you're trying to make here. He can rebuild it, he can not, whatever.
 
By your logic then we should never encourage people to do things they think might be too challenging. I'm not really sure what point you're trying to make here. He can rebuild it, he can not, whatever.
You're smarter than that. We should never discourage folks from doing better. But, by your own admission, you are telling him to do something you've never done and you made it sound far easier than it might be. That and you have a habit of telling everyone to do something you can do without considering whether they want to or are able to. Your position is consistently, I did it, so you can to.

Like myself, you have a knack for this particular task on this particular transmission, just like I have a knack for figuring out how to make stuff most others won't try, and expecting others to dive off into the deep end without finding out if they know how to swim is never good.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts