Transmission codes immediately after coolant flush

[Christian.mers]

Been doing coolant flushes?
Edit: Goofy me, I just saw the title

You can pop it open and get eyes on it. As for your plan, check the bolt holes and make sure they’re not inverted where the bolts have been torqued down. My bolt holes on the pan were pushed upwards towards the transmission causing an uneven mounting surface despite numerous checks….

Make sure you just have the right fluid and just be patient tightening the bolts to put the pan back on. You should be set.

As for the Gasket, I’d get a ‘LubeLocker’. It’s reusable and you do not need rtv so it saves the headache of cleaning the surface of rtv.

My oil pan looked like that, it doesn’t hurt anything, I just sanded and painted it and all is well. A new pan won’t hurt anything though

Any questions or concerns just send a question or pictures and myself, @hear or someone else could help you

 

[mrblaine]

I haven't been back in here in awhile, but the 0740 is persistent and would come on every time I had the jeep on the highway. I haven't been driving it much while I came up with a plan. Today I'm planning to just do a basic fluid and filter change (no flush) since I have no idea what's in there - at least I can get eyes on the filter, magnet, and get a bit of fresh fluid in.

Just got the skid down and someone has definitely been in here before. My plan is to drop the plan, get it clean, scrape all the RTV off both sides, and check that the pan is square on a granite countertop. I have a new rubber gasket and filter to install.

I see the rust on the pan now, and will probably order another, but would like to go ahead if I can right now. Based on these pictures, any extra advice from anyone here?

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We never use the rubber gaskets. Use trans specific Mopar black RTV, or the Lube Locker style gaskets. If you plan on doing several sealing jobs, Mopar 3Bond is unbeatable. Be aware that the pan bolts tend to strip out easily. The less than astute drill and tap larger, the smart ones use a Time-sert. On the left side, a few of the bolt holes need RTV to not leak.

 

[tyler711]

Any reason not to try using a hand pump oil extractor (from oil changes on my VW) to try to pull a few quarts of fluid thru the dipstick before dropping the pan to minimize the waterfall?

 

[mrblaine]

Any reason not to try using a hand pump oil extractor (from oil changes on my VW) to try to pull a few quarts of fluid thru the dipstick before dropping the pan to minimize the waterfall?

I use a sharp center punch, drain the pan that way and then replace it with the Dorman version that has a drain plug.

 

[Christian.mers]

Any reason not to try using a hand pump oil extractor (from oil changes on my VW) to try to pull a few quarts of fluid thru the dipstick before dropping the pan to minimize the waterfall?

If that’s what you want to do, it won’t hurt anything

 

[tyler711]

Thanks, guys. Old pan came off after a good fight - there was a gasket and a whole lotta RTV in there. The drainable Dorman is in stock locally, so I'll just but that on rather than stressing about getting this old one perfectly planar.

 

[tyler711]

The rest of the job went better than I expected. I used the rubber gasket for now, clean and dry, since I plan on being back in here in a few hundred miles for another change and it's what I had today. A cheap set of plastic razor blade scrapers was perfect for scraping all of the RTV off of the transmission case, with no fear of gouging the aluminum as a rookie. It took just a few mins to get perfectly clean.

I used some blue loctite on the #5 bolt that goes into the case, per the FSM and a search on this forum. After a test drive, I think the front left area of the pan gasket may be seeping a bit - I'll use a Lube Locker gasket next time; hopefully it stays just weeping a bit for now. I wasn't brave enough to torque the pan bolts to 165 in-lbs per the FSM; I did one pass at 60 and a final pass at 135. That could very well be my seeping issue, but it seems like the rubber gasket is already starting to get squeezed out at 135.

No notable metal on the magnet or filter, just a metallic fuzz on the magnet, so that all seems OK. The filter in there had a mold mark of May 2020, so it wasn't ancient. Fluid was pretty dark; time will tell if this impacts my 0740 TCC codes or not. I also noticed my cooler lines are starting to leak near the rad, so that will be next as well.

Just wanted to add some details for any future searchers that find this thread. I always appreciate the support here.

 

[Christian.mers]

I torqued to 150 in-lbs and spec for my 30RH was 156 in-lbs. you wouldn’t think 6 Inch pounds (not even 1 foot pound) could cause seepage but it did for me. I torqued to 160 in-lbs and seepage was gone.

I’d fix those cooler lines ASAP, one carries a good bit of pressure and I was driving down the road and it popped off on me. Thankfully I had a gallon of ATF+4 in my back seat

 

[tyler711]

Maybe I'll try retorquing after some miles - the 135 I did already felt like a lot for aluminum. But I suppose the engineers know best.

And thanks for the kick; I just ordered a set of lines from rockauto. Not really looking forward to that fight.