The Saga Continues…
- Thread starter NJW
- Start date
Well, I woke up to a Zelle refund from the first broker. The one I used for Houston, but who’s driver cancelled on this one.
Didn’t expect to see that - considering it a Christmas miracle.
It’s on a truck, estimated delivery on Thursday.
As you can see, we weren’t getting that back window fully zipped in this cold.
Didn’t expect to see that - considering it a Christmas miracle.
It’s on a truck, estimated delivery on Thursday.
As you can see, we weren’t getting that back window fully zipped in this cold.
Well, I woke up to a Zelle refund from the first broker. The one I used for Houston, but who’s driver cancelled on this one.
Didn’t expect to see that - considering it a Christmas miracle.
View attachment 660819
It’s on a truck, estimated delivery on Thursday.
As you can see, we weren’t getting that back window fully zipped in this cold.
Makes me wonder if the other one would fit on a wedge now. It would be close.
Been following, but not commenting much...but it don't look like this LJ is gonna have much uptravel either...Looks like the tire in the rear is already stuffed and its just sitting on the trailer. Are the Coil-overs completely down or is there no air in the ORI's?Well, I woke up to a Zelle refund from the first broker. The one I used for Houston, but who’s driver cancelled on this one.
Didn’t expect to see that - considering it a Christmas miracle.
View attachment 660819
It’s on a truck, estimated delivery on Thursday.
As you can see, we weren’t getting that back window fully zipped in this cold.
We checked clearances with his tractor while I was there. It was stupid cold though. I’m a pansy when it comes to humidity. So didn’t take my phone out to take photos while we were doing it.
The 16” ORI’s were set to have 5” of up, and 11” down. 145 PSI in the front and 135 PSI in the rear. We lowered the ride height a little in preparation for first shipper as it was a 9 car hauler, and we weren’t sure were they were going to place it.
Once I get it to my garage and the ORI’s are filled and at ride height - I’ll take plenty of photos for everyone to properly critique.
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I believe in miracles!
Jeep showed up. Didn’t pay a dime until delivery. Night and day difference between the other broker I had been using.
Not sure when I’m going to have time to dig into this thing with the holidays. But will soon!
Ordered a bed rug kit for the front and brackets I knew I’d need to fit the softtop correctly. Needing to buy another fill kit - debating between piecing one together or just buying ORI’s.
Jeep showed up. Didn’t pay a dime until delivery. Night and day difference between the other broker I had been using.
Not sure when I’m going to have time to dig into this thing with the holidays. But will soon!
Ordered a bed rug kit for the front and brackets I knew I’d need to fit the softtop correctly. Needing to buy another fill kit - debating between piecing one together or just buying ORI’s.
Glad it arrived safely... Enjoy once you get to it.. Look forward to hearing more about how you like it.
This Jeep is a few inches wider than my trailer at 85”.
I didn’t want to make any permanent modifications to this trailer, as I use it for other vehicles as well.
Stacked some 2x12’s and a piece of OSB to make some ramps to keep me off my fenders. All in $65. I’m sure there’s a better mounting solution, but a few ratchet strap and some eye bolts worked for what I had on hand.
Was able to get it plated today and took it for a longer drive. The new ORI’s are stiffer, but that’s to be expected for being new. Still need to pick up a fill kit and nitrogen.
I was worried about the feel of full hydro on the street and/or at speed, but honestly, this setup feels better than any of my previous rigs. The plan is to trailer it obviously, but it’s nice to know I can cruise at 65 if to get back to camp.
I can’t believe how easy it is to turn these wheels. Feels like witchcraft.
However, I’m pretty sure I jacked the clockspring pretty much immediately messing around in the driveway. Airbag light came on. Horn still works, but I’m getting a P0581 for cruise control. Pretty sure the servo for that was removed. I don’t mind the light, but it chimes every few minutes and is pretty annoying.
Can the clockspring simply be removed and bypassed? Have no desire for airbags. Considering going with a quick release wheel, and putting this stock one in the black LJ - as it needs a replacement anyway.
I didn’t want to make any permanent modifications to this trailer, as I use it for other vehicles as well.
Stacked some 2x12’s and a piece of OSB to make some ramps to keep me off my fenders. All in $65. I’m sure there’s a better mounting solution, but a few ratchet strap and some eye bolts worked for what I had on hand.
Was able to get it plated today and took it for a longer drive. The new ORI’s are stiffer, but that’s to be expected for being new. Still need to pick up a fill kit and nitrogen.
I was worried about the feel of full hydro on the street and/or at speed, but honestly, this setup feels better than any of my previous rigs. The plan is to trailer it obviously, but it’s nice to know I can cruise at 65 if to get back to camp.
I can’t believe how easy it is to turn these wheels. Feels like witchcraft.
However, I’m pretty sure I jacked the clockspring pretty much immediately messing around in the driveway. Airbag light came on. Horn still works, but I’m getting a P0581 for cruise control. Pretty sure the servo for that was removed. I don’t mind the light, but it chimes every few minutes and is pretty annoying.
Can the clockspring simply be removed and bypassed? Have no desire for airbags. Considering going with a quick release wheel, and putting this stock one in the black LJ - as it needs a replacement anyway.
I've seen other people do this for ramps to clear the their fenders. As long as it works.
I have a quick release steering wheel with a NRG kit but it keeps the clock spring. I had to just tape over the airbag light because I'm using a 2002+ dash in a 2001 & older wiring.. But I only get the beep when it first starts.
That's COOL about the full hydro since it was one of the reasons I'd stayed hydro-assist.
It looks like you are in a good spot to do a build thread, and the first part of your title would work well. Great to see you got it home safe.
P.S. I appreciate you saying "why not both" when choosing trailer wheels.
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That’s a point of frustration. I had let a guy from church borrow it to pick up his vehicle in New Mexico, about two weeks after acquiring it myself.
He jacked it into a concrete barrier on the way and ripped off the fender, broke the front axle and destroyed the wheel.
That was 2 years ago. First part of that was waiting for the kid to get it fixed, which I was patient with - we were going to split it 50/50… He was a new dad and about to leave for the military, so he brought it to a local guy who held it hostage “trying to source an axle”.
I got tired of waiting and was able to get it back. Ordered an axle from Dexter and tried to find a matching rim for weeks to no avail.
Our closest trailer dealer had one mounted as a spare, but they could not be convinced to sell it to me without buying the whole freaking thing.
Well, there’s the story about the mismatched wheel no one really needed to know.
It's why I don't loan my trailer anymore... My wiring is still jacked up from loaning it out to my neighbor...
Got things moved around in the shop to fit the jeep for the winter. That’s been difficult since we started building it out as a climbing gym.
Trying to figure out why I’m going to do with the hood. Local shop quoted me $1100 just for the hood. Thinking about trying things myself for that price.
Looking to paint the fender inserts at the same time.
Also need to paint the grill from where it was notched for the motobilt front half kit.
Trying to figure out why I’m going to do with the hood. Local shop quoted me $1100 just for the hood. Thinking about trying things myself for that price.
Looking to paint the fender inserts at the same time.
Also need to paint the grill from where it was notched for the motobilt front half kit.
You can do the paint. That rust is very minor and should scuff right off. I’m not saying it’s easy, but you can do it and I or others can give you the lay of the land. I always find it annoying to have to paint, but once I did it with the paint gun and compressor twice it became just “a walk in the park Kazansky.”
You can slap some paint on without being all that skilled, but the results might not be nearly as good as you wish they were. This is especially the case for a hood that is missing layers of paint only in some areas.
I've seen some less than desirable DIY jobs in here that are either orange pealed or the painter shows the best angles and photos from far enough away to hide the lack of quality.
Only you know what level of results you'll need to be truly happy, so that's where I would start the evaluation.
This is one thing that I want to get right. Of all of my TJ’s, every single one of them had an issue with the hood that didn’t bother anyone else - but I noticed it every flipping time getting in.
Would I be better off removing all the paint and starting bare? I’ve got access to a compressor and decent HVLP spray gun, but zero automotive painting/prep experience.
Is it as simple as a few passes of wet sanding, primer, paint and clear? I realize that’s an over simplification, but I’m not needing to bondo the crap out of this thing right?
Reading through threads and it sounds like prep is the key, but I don’t really know what prep would be required here.
I may still just pay someone to do it right - my time may be better spent working than doing a halfway job to save a few bucks.
- You desire to get the hood right.
- You have zero experience regarding how to make that happen.
- You said you were ahead from selling your red jeep
Adding up your input makes the answer pretty clear.
I'll throw my $0.02 in here....
Two years ago I tried my hand at automotive painting and while I got the job done and it's a 10' paint job overall I'm not happy with how it turned out but at the same time for aa trail rig I wouldn't of wanted to spend $3K + on paint to take it up and scratch it to hell...
Now YES the hood is something you're looking over anytime you're driving it so you're going to want it looking better.
I might shop around a little and see if you can find a better price on the repaint? Also if you remove the hood and take it to them would that help with the price? Also if you're not in a huge hurry and it's something they could work on during downtime?
Two years ago I tried my hand at automotive painting and while I got the job done and it's a 10' paint job overall I'm not happy with how it turned out but at the same time for aa trail rig I wouldn't of wanted to spend $3K + on paint to take it up and scratch it to hell...
Now YES the hood is something you're looking over anytime you're driving it so you're going to want it looking better.
I might shop around a little and see if you can find a better price on the repaint? Also if you remove the hood and take it to them would that help with the price? Also if you're not in a huge hurry and it's something they could work on during downtime?
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