Tennessee Red

Cross member stopping you? Could you could notch it, and combine that with a slightly shorter pitman arm?

Possibly and possibly.

I think it may be easier to relocate the radiator, but your idea may be a possibility. I could definitely get it to work if I removed the cross member all together and installed a channel across the front, but then I would have to come up with a sway bar. Would require modifying or changing my winch plate, relocate the steer gear attach locations, extending the steer shaft etc... Something to ponder but even if I have to get a new radiator all together and go with an electric fan I think that the radiator modification would be less work and the required frame notch is no big deal, it is pretty wide open and easy access for cutting and burning.

Plus, if I moved it fwd I would just be tempted to try and move the axle forward even more and I am back in the same boat.
 
Possibly and possibly.

I think it may be easier to relocate the radiator, but your idea may be a possibility. I could definitely get it to work if I removed the cross member all together and installed a channel across the front, but then I would have to come up with a sway bar. Would require modifying or changing my winch plate, relocate the steer gear attach locations, extending the steer shaft etc... Something to ponder but even if I have to get a new radiator all together and go with an electric fan I think that the radiator modification would be less work and the required frame notch is no big deal, it is pretty wide open and easy access for cutting and burning.

Plus, if I moved it fwd I would just be tempted to try and move the axle forward even more and I am back in the same boat.

That stock crossmember is like 3" in diameter. If you are running an anti-rock (can't remember your setup) you could probably cut a notch at least an inch deep into the cross member to accommodate the gear coming forward, and not hit the torsion bar. Just a thought - I'm sure you will find a good solution.

(...and by the way, I get it on not wanting an un-level tie rod :oops:. OCD Wheelers Unite!)
 
Last saturday morning at AOP; I went to close my tailgate and it wouldn't close. I was dumbfounded because it closed perfectly the day before and I didn't remember backing into anything the night before. Jeff (@NashvilleTJ) noticed that the body was kinked under the lower tailgate hinge and he said he would hold up on the tailgate while I hit the kink with a hammer and it would probably straighten it out enough to close. Well, that worked and I remember saying out loud, How the hell does the body bend in that direction it would have to be pushed up from the bottom and the bumper is protecting it. Anyway, it worked and I never thought about it again, I actually forgot about it.

Today, I came home from work a little early in order to power wash my jeep so I can do a good inspection and start fixing what I find. I wanted to get a jump on it since I have a wheeling trip planned in a few weeks. Well after I power washed it and took it for a quick drive around the neighborhood I start doing my normal undercarriage check and I found that the frame is cracked on both the LH and RH sides right at the front of the shock tower which is frenched into the frame. The shock towers are also cracked. So......I am thinking it has been cracked for a while and growing overtime and Friday night I did back into a rock with the bumper a few times pretty hard and that most likely "opened" up the crack and pushed the frame and bumper up enough to kink the body.

LH Frame Rail Crack:
PXL_20250401_202434601.jpg


RH Frame Rail Crack:
PXL_20250401_202453172.jpg


Shock Tower Crack:
PXL_20250401_202551702.jpg


The only loads that would be applied to the frame aft of the shock tower which would cause that crack is impacts on the tank and bumper when dropping off of ledges or backing into rocks with the front end up in the air. Since I moved the tank to the bed the amount of impacts has significantly dropped, but the cracks were most likely already there and growing, I just never noticed them until the crack actually opened allowing the frame to move up.

I will have to get things opened up and removed so I can get access and clean it all up and weld it back together, possibly add some reinforcement, good time to get rid of all those old brackets in the picture that are no longer used. I will work on that this weekend. I really just wanted to post this so Jeff could see what caused that kink in the body.

I also found my transmission mount cracked in two, it was definitely due to bad weld on my part. I already removed it, fixed it, and reinstalled it this afternoon. Now time to get cleaned up, eat dinner, and head out to the Southern Culture on the Skids show tonight :-)

PXL_20250401_202420972.jpg
 
Last saturday morning at AOP; I went to close my tailgate and it wouldn't close. I was dumbfounded because it closed perfectly the day before and I didn't remember backing into anything the night before. Jeff (@NashvilleTJ) noticed that the body was kinked under the lower tailgate hinge and he said he would hold up on the tailgate while I hit the kink with a hammer and it would probably straighten it out enough to close. Well, that worked and I remember saying out loud, How the hell does the body bend in that direction it would have to be pushed up from the bottom and the bumper is protecting it. Anyway, it worked and I never thought about it again, I actually forgot about it.

Today, I came home from work a little early in order to power wash my jeep so I can do a good inspection and start fixing what I find. I wanted to get a jump on it since I have a wheeling trip planned in a few weeks. Well after I power washed it and took it for a quick drive around the neighborhood I start doing my normal undercarriage check and I found that the frame is cracked on both the LH and RH sides right at the front of the shock tower which is frenched into the frame. The shock towers are also cracked. So......I am thinking it has been cracked for a while and growing overtime and Friday night I did back into a rock with the bumper a few times pretty hard and that most likely "opened" up the crack and pushed the frame and bumper up enough to kink the body.

LH Frame Rail Crack:
View attachment 605503

RH Frame Rail Crack:
View attachment 605504

Shock Tower Crack:
View attachment 605505

The only loads that would be applied to the frame aft of the shock tower which would cause that crack is impacts on the tank and bumper when dropping off of ledges or backing into rocks with the front end up in the air. Since I moved the tank to the bed the amount of impacts has significantly dropped, but the cracks were most likely already there and growing, I just never noticed them until the crack actually opened allowing the frame to move up.

I will have to get things opened up and removed so I can get access and clean it all up and weld it back together, possibly add some reinforcement, good time to get rid of all those old brackets in the picture that are no longer used. I will work on that this weekend. I really just wanted to post this so Jeff could see what caused that kink in the body.

I also found my transmission mount cracked in two, it was definitely due to bad weld on my part. I already removed it, fixed it, and reinstalled it this afternoon. Now time to get cleaned up, eat dinner, and head out to the Southern Culture on the Skids show tonight :-)

View attachment 605508

You have mentioned tube framing the back in the past. Time for the Juggy?
 
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Last saturday morning at AOP; I went to close my tailgate and it wouldn't close. I was dumbfounded because it closed perfectly the day before and I didn't remember backing into anything the night before. Jeff (@NashvilleTJ) noticed that the body was kinked under the lower tailgate hinge and he said he would hold up on the tailgate while I hit the kink with a hammer and it would probably straighten it out enough to close. Well, that worked and I remember saying out loud, How the hell does the body bend in that direction it would have to be pushed up from the bottom and the bumper is protecting it. Anyway, it worked and I never thought about it again, I actually forgot about it.

Today, I came home from work a little early in order to power wash my jeep so I can do a good inspection and start fixing what I find. I wanted to get a jump on it since I have a wheeling trip planned in a few weeks. Well after I power washed it and took it for a quick drive around the neighborhood I start doing my normal undercarriage check and I found that the frame is cracked on both the LH and RH sides right at the front of the shock tower which is frenched into the frame. The shock towers are also cracked. So......I am thinking it has been cracked for a while and growing overtime and Friday night I did back into a rock with the bumper a few times pretty hard and that most likely "opened" up the crack and pushed the frame and bumper up enough to kink the body.

LH Frame Rail Crack:
View attachment 605503

RH Frame Rail Crack:
View attachment 605504

Shock Tower Crack:
View attachment 605505

The only loads that would be applied to the frame aft of the shock tower which would cause that crack is impacts on the tank and bumper when dropping off of ledges or backing into rocks with the front end up in the air. Since I moved the tank to the bed the amount of impacts has significantly dropped, but the cracks were most likely already there and growing, I just never noticed them until the crack actually opened allowing the frame to move up.

I will have to get things opened up and removed so I can get access and clean it all up and weld it back together, possibly add some reinforcement, good time to get rid of all those old brackets in the picture that are no longer used. I will work on that this weekend. I really just wanted to post this so Jeff could see what caused that kink in the body.

I also found my transmission mount cracked in two, it was definitely due to bad weld on my part. I already removed it, fixed it, and reinstalled it this afternoon. Now time to get cleaned up, eat dinner, and head out to the Southern Culture on the Skids show tonight :-)

View attachment 605508

I’ll come over and lift up on the bumper. Then you hit the frame with a hammer and all will be well…

…hell, it worked once!

Damn Skippy, that’s some damage. I don’t understand it - you are always so gentle with your rig.

😉
 
You have mentioned tube framing the back in the past. Time for the Juggy?

I wish, but not yet. I got to pay the taxman here over the next 2 weeks and then see what steel prices do. Both of those are going to set me back overall on life 🙄
But my goal is to redo the steering and the bigger brakes and get those kinks worked out sometime this summer, then do the rear stretch later this year and then wheel it for awhile to work out kinks and make sure that is the wheelbase I want. Then it will be looking at tubing out the rear sometime over the next several years. Main objective is to wheel as much as possible, so I don't want my jeep down for extended periods.
 
Went to Moab last week and on purpose it was the same week as the Ryan coordinated TJ forum in Moab. Originally there was 5 rigs going with my group but three dropped out last minute due to personal issues and finances so it was just two of us. We had an awesome week and was even able to hook up with the TJ crew for Metal Masher and for a brief time on Pritchett.

I did have an issue with my jeep shutting down when it was hot, and even one time when it wasn't hot. I need to troubleshoot that before I go on another big outing. I ripped the rear driver side fender/qtr panel off. It was actually just about ready to let go due to being crunched several times in the past, the little rub on Coyote canyon just finished it off. Other than that I was happy with the way my jeep worked and performed.

I got a text last night from buddy of mine about wheeling at hawk pride this weekend and it is hard for me to say no, so tonight I cut off some of the rear fender and tacked it back in place as a temporary fix.
1000002574.jpg

1000002575.jpg


I also dropped my skid and took care of a few issues with my front driveshaft contacting the tub and engine skid brace and I found a small crack starting at the edge of one of my rear control arm mounts (bad weld and crack was starting at undercut,. ground it out and rewelded.)

Found a few control arm jam nuts loose and I tightened them and found a few other loose bolts during my normal bolt check.

Tomorrow night I will have to fix a few more minor things and load it on trailer in order to go humble myself Sat at hawk pride. I always come back from Moab so cocky due to the traction and I have this feeling that I can make everything, then I quickly find out that I still suck. I always say don't make any changes to your rig after a trip out west because the first time you hit the trails with no traction you will think you did something wrong.

Here's to wheeling out west and then coming back home to the land of humid air, wet clay, deep undercuts, and actual slick as snot rocks. It's not Moab but how many others are wheeling again this weekend ;)
 
Morning thoughts while enjoying coffee and reflecting on Moab and life. I jotted this down the morning after doing Onion Creek/Rose Garden Hill/Top of the World. Not really about my jeep but what the jeep can provide. For I can ride my Mt bike or hike/backpack to these places that we have been blessed with and I commonly do. But the jeep allows me to share it with my wife and others. Sometimes these thoughts even surprise myself.

The rocks are red.
Some are white.
There is some gray.
And a little bit of green.
The colors are amazing.
It does not look real.
I am standing here looking at it, but it seems to good to be true, more like a painting.
A perfect painting, brushed by God.
His brushes were not of hair, but of water, wind, and time.
He blessed us with sight to view his art.
Now as I stand here and look with awe, I feel apart but small.
I am blessed to be here in the presence of God for he is all around just looking to be found.
 
Morning thoughts while enjoying coffee and reflecting on Moab and life. I jotted this down the morning after doing Onion Creek/Rose Garden Hill/Top of the World. Not really about my jeep but what the jeep can provide. For I can ride my Mt bike or hike/backpack to these places that we have been blessed with and I commonly do. But the jeep allows me to share it with my wife and others. Sometimes these thoughts even surprise myself.

The rocks are red.
Some are white.
There is some gray.
And a little bit of green.
The colors are amazing.
It does not look real.
I am standing here looking at it, but it seems to good to be true, more like a painting.
A perfect painting, brushed by God.
His brushes were not of hair, but of water, wind, and time.
He blessed us with sight to view his art.
Now as I stand here and look with awe, I feel apart but small.
I am blessed to be here in the presence of God for he is all around just looking to be found.

Julie and I talk frequently about how Jeeping has allowed us to see things and go places that most never will. Most will never know what they missed.
 
Do you think the crank position sensor fixed the issue? I tried starting a thread on not getting any RPM at crank but never got a response. What brand sensors are you using?

Fun meeting you in Moab!

-Mac
 
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Do you think the crank position sensor fixed the issue? I tried starting a thread on not getting any RPM at crank but never got a response. What brand sensors are you using?

Fun meeting you in Moab!

-Mac

The crank position sensor definitely did not fix it because it happened two more times after I changed it. The one that was install was a Mopar and the spare was a standard motor (I think). I am going to reinstall tj Mopar when I get the chance and wrap the wires in additional insulation.

Since being home I have changed the cam position sensor based on the P0340 and P1391 codes I had, I also wrapped the fuel rail with additional insulation. We will see if that takes care of the issue.
 
The next level is the people you meet and the friends you make along the way.

100%

My wife is game for trail rides to see beautiful places, just prefers tame stuff and puts up with a bit of rock crawling as a good partner. I just know there will be a spa day in there somewhere to keep her “ in balance”.
 
I am lucky in that my wife actually enjoys wheeling with me. I actually got the jeep in the first place because I was doing so much mt biking and my wife had no interest in mt biking, so I thought the jeep would be a way to get out there on the trails with a passenger seat for her. She typically stays in the jeep even when it starts getting sketchy, but I quickly ask her to get out if if gets too sketchy and she doesn't hesitate. The only thing she doesn't really like is night wheeling, now that I got better lights she will tolerate it to get back to camp, but she typically won't go out on a night ride. If it is dark she will pass, but she always allows me to go :)

One tends to gravitate towards those that share your interests so most of my friends are from mt biking and wheeling. Even though I grew up around jeeps, and I have three jeeps (2 TJs and 1 JK), and I love my jeeps, I have come to realize that my hobby is not Jeeps, it is wheeling. Fortunately, my wife has the same thoughts, she doesn't care about the rigs, who drives what, etc... just as long as we are out there and moving!
 
The crank position sensor definitely did not fix it because it happened two more times after I changed it. The one that was install was a Mopar and the spare was a standard motor (I think). I am going to reinstall tj Mopar when I get the chance and wrap the wires in additional insulation.

Since being home I have changed the cam position sensor based on the P0340 and P1391 codes I had, I also wrapped the fuel rail with additional insulation. We will see if that takes care of the issue.

This did not take care of the issue. Went to Hawk Pride on Saturday and the Jeep performed great all morning. It actually seemed to be firing up better, always the first turn of the key, never had to hit the key twice. But the afternoon with the heat and humidity and also hitting some harder trails, the shut down when heat soak started again. Got the same codes, P0340 and P1391, one time I actually got a few additional codes (still got the P0340 and P1391, these were additional) for ignition rail B and C and there was another TJ in our group so we swapped ignition rails and unfortunately I still had the problem and he never did, so it wasn't the rail. Anyway, on the last trail of the day, it heat soaked and quit and I was able to get a bottle of water back by the firewall to dump cold water on the CPS and it fired right up, I went about 3-5 minutes before it quit again, and I dumped water on the CPS and it fired right up, I did this two more times to get back to the parking lot. So.....I definitely need a CPS. One other item that I noted is that twice when it was heat soaked and wouldn't fire, the fuel pump would run continuously when the key was in the on position, it is supposed to turn on for 3 seconds and then shut off, but on these two times it never shut off. So not sure if the PCM was confused and not turning off the signal to the relay or if the relay was hot and sticking open.

Freaking Gremlins!
 
I'll say this...the one thing I noticed about your Jeep was the under hood temperatures.

Mine gets hot. But when I was close to yours and you popped the hood I could viscerally feel the heat.

I had power steering issues on my first day but made a concerted effort to keep RPMs up...both for faster pump speeds but also more fan movement to keep things cooler. Nothing but subjective observation but I think it helped.

I'd be curious how many ohms your CPS reads. I think we need to crowd source data and chart it.

-Mac
 
After the Hawk Pride trip I wanted to nip this heat soak issue in the bud so I changed the CPS and also did some additional part changes just in case.

Post Hawk Pride Inspection/fixes-
The heim joints for the steering hydro ram are wearing and starting to click. Ordered new Heims. FKB-JX10 for the female thread and SUM-MAX10T for male thread from summit and installed.

Removed and inspected the pitman arm and drag link TRE. The Drag Link TRE has play, ordered new Currie CE-9701DLR drag link end from summit and installed

Checked fuel pressure - 50psi when running. Drops down to about 40psi when I blip throttle. I installed the Bosch pump that I removed at Golden Mtn and it was running at 80psi. Bought a fuel pressure regulator for the Bosch pump. Installed new PR318 fuel pressure regulator and it ran at 50psi. Bosch pump is installed, the Oreily’s pump is in the spare box.

Changed fuel pump relay
Swapped the ASD and ac compressor relay

New PCM from WranglerFix.

New Mopar CPS (mopar 56027865AB/68407888AA) and CPS grommet (Crown 53006010)

Rear Shock lower attach bushing is worn, ordered Bilstein E4-GV1-Z044A04 from Summit (2x).

New 11 blade Dorman Fan, p/n 620-155 and Hayden Heavy Duty Fan Clutch p/n 2794 installed with new crown automotive fan shroud bought from summit.

New radiator cap

Hoping the new 11 blade fan with HD clutch will pull more air through radiator and push it through engine bay and out hood louvers and fender vents. Also, the new CPS and PCM will hopefully take care of the heat soak issue.

found front grill mount bracket welds broken where it is attached to the front crossmember. Reinstalled the rubber grill mount that was missing on passenger side and then rewelded the bracket.
 
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After the Hawk Pride trip I wanted to nip this hear soak issue in the bud so I changed the CPS and also did some additional part changes just in case.

...

What happened with trying out the new park?