Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Swiss Cheese a TJ-6 Story

Swiss-cheese TJ-6

Swiss cheese because its holy
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2025
Messages
48
Location
North Salt Lake, UT
I’ve been telling myself for years I’d finally get this written down to help organize and explain how and why I did certain things with my Jeep.


Quick backstory: it’s my first car—I got it when I was 15—and I’ve never stopped loving the damn thing. I front-halfed and back-halfed it while daily driving it through college, and it’ll never really be done. It’s always evolving.


I haven’t had the time or a place to pull it all together until now, but I’m finally starting to document it. Hopefully this thread becomes a solid reference—and maybe helps someone else down the road.
 
So how I’m going to do this is post as many pics as I can, which I think explains better than I can type and then I’ll try and make posts about particular questions or integral parts of my Jeep

IMG_0387.jpeg


IMG_0386.jpeg


IMG_0388.jpeg


IMG_0390.jpeg


IMG_0389.jpeg


IMG_0391.jpeg


IMG_0392.jpeg


IMG_0393.jpeg


IMG_0394.jpeg


IMG_0398.jpeg


IMG_0385.jpeg


IMG_0384.jpeg


IMG_0382.jpeg


IMG_0381.jpeg


IMG_0380.jpeg


IMG_0376.jpeg


IMG_0377.jpeg


IMG_0378.jpeg


IMG_0375.jpeg


IMG_0373.jpeg
 
This was one hell of a week. April 19th, 2025—I was out in Sand Hollow playing around on a trail called The Maze rated 8 and snapped my rear output shaft. Yes, I know it’s the stock one. I just haven’t justified putting in a slip yoke elim and getting a new driveshaft because I so badly want to upgrade to an Atlas, and spending money on a slip yoke elim and a new shaft just feels like wasted money. So I’ve put it off—which bit me in the ass.

How it snapped,
My transmission had been slipping all day, throwing me into false neutrals (it was low on fluid) and the steep angle didn’t help. I had been slowly spinning all 4 tires smoothly for the past couple mins trying to get up this ledge. Super common in sandhollow west coast wheeling, just warming up the tires. I got past the hole stared making progression all the way up to the second ledge and then the transmission slipped into neutral making me go flying back down the hill. I left foot braked but it wasn’t enough. Transmission engaged again right when I landed and SNAP I felt it in my bones sooo cringy sounding

My buddies pulled me out of the hole, and I made it back to my grandfather’s house in Toquerville and parked it for the night.

I borrowed his truck and—miraculously—found a stock NP231 an hour south in Mesquite, NV. So I ran down and picked it up that night. The next day I then proceeded to pull my case apart and the new one I bought. My case was pretty destroyed inside the internal oil pump was shredded as well as the seals and bearings on the rear half near where it snapped. I decided to combine the two to make my own version, together with the front half of my old t-case and the rear half of the one I just bought. I had to do that because the input shaft on my case was a short, and the one I bought was a long. So after mixing and matching, I got the Jeep running that afternoon Sunday —which was hella stressful because I had finals for college the following week and graduated from college that Thursday, April 24th.

Mind you, this Jeep is my daily. Without it, I have to bum rides from other people. So the stress was high—especially because I was living an hour north in Cedar City going to college at SUU. And on top of all that, I was moving houses to start a new job in Salt Lake City the next Monday.

Jeez… when I say I was dying inside—I was.

IMG_4939.jpeg


IMG_4938.jpeg


IMG_4933.jpeg


IMG_4934.jpeg


IMG_9980.jpeg


IMG_9978.jpeg


IMG_9979.jpeg


IMG_9977.jpeg


IMG_9974.jpeg


IMG_9975.jpeg


IMG_9973.jpeg


IMG_9972.png


IMG_9996.jpeg
 
Cool - thanks for posting up. I look forward to following along.

What’s your wheelbase?

113.5” , I think. It’s always around 112.5 to 114 It seems to be different every time I try and measure. I do move my ride height around all the time which is also the cause of the variability
 
  • Like
Reactions: sab and NashvilleTJ
Congrats on your graduation! I have a good friend in Salt Lake. Love Park City.

Fantastic that you were able to do all this work through High School and College. Nice work.
 
Next up is my cage.


I also went a little bit of a different route on this one. I went with the company XO-Fab—Anthony Diss was awesome to work with. I was able to get a few measurements of what I wanted, and he adapted his traditional cage to work with my requirements. I wanted the fastback look with the ducktail. It was kind of a goal/necessity.

I love the way the Peck Brothers have done their cages, and I really, really wanted that style. The traditional family cage that’s more rectangular in the rear just didn’t speak to me. So I ordered the fastback A-to-C pillar, and the rest is a normal cage from XO-Fab. I did have them get me a few extra tubes like the X-brace, grab handles, and dash V-bar—because when you spend that much on a cage, you might as well go the whole nine.


The ducktail portion—I had an awesome local buggy builder help me with. Fabn-801 in Parowan, UT helped me with the ducktail, and he was awesome. Nothing but kind words for him and his team. He helped me do the ducktail, the lower X-brace under the seat, and the roof bars.


I used some extra tube I bought to make some nice tie-in brackets in the rear that go to the frame. Between the body cage and the tie-in are Motobilt’s rubber insulators, which were pretty good. I had a buddy help me lift the cage in and out so I could weld the underside. I hope to powder coat it someday in the future, but I don’t know if I’ll have the time or the place anytime soon.


Another cool thing—I was able to notch the factory sound bar to fit the new cage because I really didn’t want to boat speakers.

IMG_9952.jpeg


IMG_9953.jpeg


IMG_9954.jpeg


IMG_9951.jpeg


IMG_9939.jpeg


IMG_9938.jpeg


IMG_9937.jpeg


IMG_9936.jpeg


IMG_9935.jpeg


IMG_9931.jpeg


IMG_9930.jpeg


IMG_9929.jpeg


IMG_9928.jpeg


IMG_9889.jpeg


IMG_9843.jpeg


IMG_9842.jpeg


IMG_9840.jpeg


IMG_9841.jpeg


IMG_9837.jpeg


IMG_9838.jpeg
 
Found more random pics for the cage and my old bent sliders.
Greatest way to get the cage out was witching it from the roof I was going to start up a tow truck but the battery was dead on the old wrecker I wanted to use. so roof was the best choice and that was after pulling it out with a friend and hell no I will not ever pull one by hand again without like 6 guys

Plus tire pic of 39” kanati mud hog ( my spare tire) compared to my 40” Milestar X/T

IMG_9836.jpeg


IMG_9835.jpeg


IMG_9833.jpeg


IMG_9834.jpeg


IMG_9837.jpeg


IMG_9838.jpeg


IMG_9830.jpeg


IMG_9831.jpeg


IMG_9829.jpeg


IMG_9824.jpeg


IMG_9823.jpeg


IMG_9820.jpeg
 
Very nice build, and it is indeed impressive that you’ve accomplished so much while attending school! What a work ethic!

Edited to add: And the pressure of this being a daily driver is unfathomable to me…
 
  • Like
Reactions: Swiss-cheese TJ-6
Next up is my cage.


I also went a little bit of a different route on this one. I went with the company XO-Fab—Anthony Diss was awesome to work with. I was able to get a few measurements of what I wanted, and he adapted his traditional cage to work with my requirements. I wanted the fastback look with the ducktail. It was kind of a goal/necessity.

I love the way the Peck Brothers have done their cages, and I really, really wanted that style. The traditional family cage that’s more rectangular in the rear just didn’t speak to me. So I ordered the fastback A-to-C pillar, and the rest is a normal cage from XO-Fab. I did have them get me a few extra tubes like the X-brace, grab handles, and dash V-bar—because when you spend that much on a cage, you might as well go the whole nine.


The ducktail portion—I had an awesome local buggy builder help me with. Fabn-801 in Parowan, UT helped me with the ducktail, and he was awesome. Nothing but kind words for him and his team. He helped me do the ducktail, the lower X-brace under the seat, and the roof bars.


I used some extra tube I bought to make some nice tie-in brackets in the rear that go to the frame. Between the body cage and the tie-in are Motobilt’s rubber insulators, which were pretty good. I had a buddy help me lift the cage in and out so I could weld the underside. I hope to powder coat it someday in the future, but I don’t know if I’ll have the time or the place anytime soon.


Another cool thing—I was able to notch the factory sound bar to fit the new cage because I really didn’t want to boat speakers.

View attachment 624676

View attachment 624677

View attachment 624678

View attachment 624679

View attachment 624680

View attachment 624681

View attachment 624682

View attachment 624683

View attachment 624684

View attachment 624685

View attachment 624686

View attachment 624687

View attachment 624688

View attachment 624689

View attachment 624690

View attachment 624691

View attachment 624692

View attachment 624693

View attachment 624694

View attachment 624695

Nice! XO Fab is local to me and who I'm looking at to get my cage from. I used their flat bad kit for Toyota.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Swiss-cheese TJ-6
Found a set of full doors for a steal and I cannot believe the difference it makes on the highway. Holy cow. So much more comfy and convenient, especially in drive-throughs. I’ve got some prototype door skins on order from @Fluxor, so it should blend in a bit better than the cop-car vibe of black doors on a white Jeep. Funny enough, when replacing the door handles I realized they were originally white doors.

Any recommendations on refinishing the inner door panels?

IMG_0683.jpeg
IMG_0690.jpeg
IMG_0682.jpeg
IMG_0684.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fluxor and Wildman


I’ve never made a post about my Motobilt front half with the three link, sooo here you go. I decided to lop the front of my Jeep off on a Friday afternoon right after I got out of my classes. The goal was to get it driving again by Monday so I could get to class. I don’t know how I did it, but I made it happen.


The Jeep was already long-armed, so the links weren’t in the way. I had some coilovers I found on Facebook off a Can-Am Maverick that I made fit. I used TMR extra-tall towers to french onto the frame. They stick up so high they literally rest against my hood. I converted my coolant bottle to an old Gatorade bottle, which has somehow survived daily driving for the past year, so hell yeah. My windshield fluid bottle is an old lotion bottle I stole from my fiancée—then girlfriend at the time.


But to the main point: the important thing I haven’t seen anyone else do on a Motobilt front half is run a three link and keep a factory radiator. Both of which I somehow pulled off.


Given that I needed the Jeep back together by Monday, I prepped and staged everything the week before and hoped I had all the parts. I broke out the Sawzall and started cutting… then realized it was probably a good idea to support the frame and engine first. So I did that real quick and then started slicing.


I used an old under-reach tube from a tow truck as donor steel. It was three eighths thick, and I used a chunk to sleeve and support the area I cut out for the JL steering box. I found the cast-iron JL box on Facebook for $250, and somehow the hydraulic lines bolt right into the Jeep TJ fluid lines. So that was cool. I stole that idea from @carrotman. I reinforced the area behind the box cutout with the three eighths steel, welded it all in, and hoped it wouldn’t warp. Luckily, it didn’t.


I got it all fitted onto the frame tubes, squared it up, then realized I had to pull it all back off the stubs under my tub to grind the factory paint so I could weld it. By this time, it was about 3 AM Sunday morning. I had been working for around 16 hours straight since Saturday morning and decided I needed to sleep.


Got up bright and early Sunday, finished the grinding and welding, made my bars for the drag link and track bar, got it back on its own weight, bled the steering reservoir with the new box, rewired my headlights, painted nothing, and somehow finished around 2 AM Monday morning.


Then I decided I’d skip my morning class because it was a worthless geotechnical engineering class and just go to my 2 PM class instead. That was basically my whole personality in college—give myself every opportunity to show up to class and then blow it off because it was too early in the morning.

IMG_8782.jpeg


IMG_8783.jpeg


IMG_8793.jpeg


IMG_8794.jpeg


IMG_8795.jpeg


IMG_8796.jpeg


IMG_8797.jpeg


IMG_8798.jpeg


IMG_8799.jpeg


IMG_8813.jpeg


IMG_8814.jpeg


IMG_8818.jpeg


IMG_8819.jpeg


IMG_8820.jpeg


IMG_8824.jpeg


IMG_8830.jpeg


IMG_8831.jpeg


IMG_8832.jpeg


IMG_8833.jpeg


IMG_8847.jpeg


IMG_8850.jpeg


IMG_8857.jpeg


IMG_8858.jpeg


IMG_8859.jpeg
 
Continuation from my last post. I got it driving the next week so I could get to school and back. It was working great and I was ecstatic. However… nothing was painted, and it was late fall 2024, and of course the snow started to fly. So here I am driving to school on bare metal, and I was cringing inside. For some reason the nooks and crannies of welds rust instantly, and it was just a bummer. Luckily I got paint on it the next weekend. Friday after a week of rain, sleet and slush absolutely destroying my clean paintable surface, I pulled it back into the shop, tore everything apart again, and this time sanded it all and painted it with my signature Rust-Oleum enamel primer and enamel paint—the same stuff I’ve painted literally everything else with.

I replaced some of the temporary joints with the ones I ordered that week and pulled my steering box off to drill and tap it. That worked wonderfully. I never knew the difference full hydro assist would make. I tapped it and then paid way too much to a local auto parts store for hydro lines. They charged me $400 which ticked me off, but honestly that was on me because I didn’t ask for a price beforehand. Oh well. I got them, and it is what it is. I found a hydraulic ram on Facebook for like fifty bucks plus a few extra Jeep parts I resold, so that was a steal. I’m still running my factory power steering pump which is tapped to 5/32 and honestly don’t see a reason to upgrade it. I’m super happy with how my Jeep steers, more than enough power to get me into trouble on the trail and extremely well-mannered on the highway. I’ve even set my land speed record at 115 and have picture proof of pegging my speedo flying down the Black Ridge between St. George and Cedar City. So don’t tell me its impossible to pass 80 in your Jeep. They’re more than capable of speed if you build them right.

Anyway, the front half went great, and I also took the opportunity to throw a truss on my M210 front axle because I’ve seen way too many people snap them right at the FAD. I threw a two by three, three eighths-wall tube cut longways along the axle, tying my knuckles into the main tube and bridging the FAD. I also used that to mount my track bar in double shear with an extra-long bolt that runs through the backside of the truss. I’m honestly proud of that solution because it’s incredibly strong and kind of a theoretical “triple shear”—even though that’s not a real thing.

As for the coilovers, I bought some cheap lower brackets and I’m not too happy with them. I’ll probably replace them because I don’t love how they tie in. They hang the leverage off the back side of the axle centerline and put a lot of stress into my upper third axle-side mount. I’m running a MetalCloak Duro joint there right now because the factory one gave out, and this one will probably give out too. But they come in packs of two, so I’m hoping this one and the spare last long enough for me to eventually redo my front suspension mounts when i go to a better custom lower frame side skid setup.

When the Jeep was torn apart for all this, I also tied in my track bar mount a little better with some triangle brackets that reinforce the steering box area. I like how it came out. I still need to figure out bump cans eventually, but for now I’m just using the internal bumps in the Can-Am shocks. That’s also why I don’t run limiting straps, those shocks have internal rebound top-out springs and are meant to be used that way. I know it would be better to run bumps and limit straps, soo you cant tell me I did it wrong until it fails. lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fluxor
Here are some more pics. I weighed the front axle and wrote a paper in my differential equations class on the application of springs in parallel and series, predicting their natural frequency and the critical damping ratio of the suspension system (assuming you omit the shock). I figured there was no better way to show that than by relating it to my Jeep, so I bought four cheap Amazon scales and weighed the sprung and unsprung weight as the experimental part of my paper. Real riveting stuff… but honestly it was the only interesting thing that came out of that class. There’s also a pic of my line locks for the front and rear axles, as well as my bias valve in the dash.
IMG_8946.jpeg
IMG_8949.jpeg
IMG_9005.jpeg
IMG_9031.jpeg
IMG_9032.jpeg
IMG_9033.jpeg
IMG_9034.jpeg
IMG_9035.jpeg
IMG_9036.jpeg
IMG_9037.jpeg


IMG_8946.jpeg


IMG_8949.jpeg


IMG_9005.jpeg


IMG_9031.jpeg


IMG_9032.jpeg


IMG_9033.jpeg


IMG_9034.jpeg


IMG_9035.jpeg


IMG_9036.jpeg


IMG_9037.jpeg
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator