Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Suspension not adding up

wheel vs spring vs shock. all can limit travel for you. the shock is the 1st to give at 4.25" or so, that's about 1/2" of center stoke.
if the spring can give 7" of movement means your shock is your bump stop.
the 10" your wheel might move straight up is moot, you cannot go that far with that shock in that location. and it doesn't go straight up unless you drop it.

pull the springs and cycle the axle.
 
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wheel vs spring vs shock. all can limit travel for you. the shock is the 1st to give at 4.25" or so, that's about 1/2" of center stoke.
if the spring can give 7" of movement means your shock is your bump stop.
the 10" your wheel might move straight up is moot, you cannot go that far with that shock in that location. and it doesn't go straight up unless you drop it.

pull the springs and cycle the axle.
Thanks !
 
Am I thinking right by saying , even if I were to use a longer shock the up travel would still be the same as it is now ?
Actually, a longer shock would give you less up travel. The top of the longer tube would be closer to the upper bracket.
If you're not using all of the down travel of the shock (which isn't likely), then you could go to a shorter shock.

Not the answer you want, but seems to me I see a lot of big tire jeeps with very little up travel (and lots of bumpstop I guess).
 
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When installed correctly with the travel split in half at ride height, you won't be filling the wheel opening at full stuff using those shocks.
hey when you had your shockes outboarded , did you cut off your lower brackets and reweld them over just a little? and did you use the ford upper brackets ? do you have a picture or two ?
 
hey when you had your shockes outboarded , did you cut off your lower brackets and reweld them over just a little? and did you use the ford upper brackets ? do you have a picture or two ?

Pics are in the build thread. Mounts are Poly Performance coilover towers. There include both upper and lower mounts. The lowers are higher on the tube and sitting behind the control arm mounts.
 
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So my Tall jack stand will be here friday. :D
I went out today and cycled my axle one side at a time with tires on, just to see what might be getting in the way till my jack stands come in and I can remove the springs.
Well turns out with the current Rancho shocks that were recommended, by rancho, seem to be both my bump stops and my limiting straps :mad: . Anyway looks like new shocks may be in order for me along with out boarding the rear shock mounts.
My front lower control arms were touching the lower shock brackets at full extension , but after setting the caster angle to around 6.5 and relieving the shock bracket just a little all looks good there now.
 
I checked out mr Blaine's work he did on Stu Olson's jeep . Stu's write up is pretty dang good. Hopefully this weekend I can get to work cycling my axle and with yall advice get the information I need .
 
You also need to remember that the tire, being the furthest from the center of the vehicle, is going to move more than the shock will (in articulation, anyway).

Imagine a teeter-totter. Now think about a point about in the middle of one half is the ride. The ends are going to go all the way to the ground and all the way up. That point in the middle will never get as high as the end, nor will it ever touch the ground. It's travel will be exactly half the travel of the end of the teeter-totter.
 
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Well turns out with the current Rancho shocks that were recommended, by rancho, seem to be both my bump stops and my limiting straps :mad: .

Not Ranchos fault. If anything, it's Jeeps fault for not giving us out boarded shocks from the factory. I would bet most lifted TJs that haven't been out boarded are in the same situation of the shock being the travel limit at both ends. Mine is with the same shocks you have, and when I had the next shorter ones, they were the limit strap but not the bump stop. That was worse because I had 2.5" of downtravel.

You're near 50/50. Things are pretty good. I don't know what you do with your jeep but the stock mounts and a rancho 256 is working just fine for me.
 
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Mine is outboarded and the shocks are both the limit strap and the hard bump limit.
Really? That’s not too healthy for the shocks right ? I figure once I get the outboard to utilize more of the spring and available space in the wheel well a small bump stop will be the limiting up travel , which it should be correct?
 
Really? That’s not too healthy for the shocks right ? I figure once I get the outboard to utilize more of the spring and available space in the wheel well a small bump stop will be the limiting up travel , which it should be correct?

Longer travels and good valving gives the shock more time to slow the travel speed. The bump stop jounces are there to help slow that last little bit of speed.
 
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I don’t think I’ve asked
Longer travels and good valving gives the shock more time to slow the travel speed. The bump stop jounces are there to help slow that last little bit of speed.
I don’t think I’ve asked which (exact model) shock you are running now ?
 
Really? That’s not too healthy for the shocks right ? I figure once I get the outboard to utilize more of the spring and available space in the wheel well a small bump stop will be the limiting up travel , which it should be correct?

With an outboard I could gain 3/4" of uptravel (going from 2-3/4" to 2" bump stop). The 2" is still needed to keep the angled track bar bracket out of the floor, so a body lift could get me down a little under an inch of bump stop. I'm running 32's so I have enough tire space that I don't even know where they would make contact.
 
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You will have to know which coil springs you have as well, so that you can find coil bind. You want to make sure your bump stops hit before your coils reach coil bind
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts