Sturdier wire for light runs

[AndyG]

I set up led auxiliary rear lights and really didn't want wire loom for a small wire and just didn't see a way to run it where it couldn't get damaged.

I googled 16 and 18 gauge wire with heavy sheathing, and landscape low voltage light wire kept coming up.

We work with that occasionally, and I had some on hand. Sure enough, unless there is something @Jamison C or someone straightens me out on, that will be my go to for added wiring to the exterior.

It's dual lead, so I split it by hand, and it's black so it's easy to hide...it's sturdy enough to push in cold weather and the sheathing is probably 5 times or more thicker than standard automotive wire .

It's got just the right amount of flex...I'd almost use the term cable to describe it.

It's waterproof, multi strand and easy to find at home centers, and you get twice what you pay for , or a great extra lead for a future mod.

If it has limitations I'm not aware of, please let me know.

All the best,

AndyG,

 

[Mr. Bills]

I've used landscape wire for just that purpose (55 watt aux. work light). No issues whatsoever.

 

[AndyG]

@Jamison C approved electrical mod. That's 100 bonus points Chris.

 

[AndyG]

I've used landscape wire for just that purpose (55 watt aux. work light). No issues whatsoever.

Its actually hard to find an alternative, even through the specialty, high end suppliers...and most options are just regular wire with in a crappy sleeve. This product doesn't kink, won't Nick easily , and with a little precaution should perform as good as anything I can think of.


Thanks for chiming in.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

4 posts and no mention of it being typically used underground which makes it perfect for all off road vehicles.

 

[mrblaine]

Its actually hard to find an alternative, even through the specialty, high end suppliers...and most options are just regular wire with in a crappy sleeve. This product doesn't kink, won't Nick easily , and with a little precaution should perform as good as anything I can think of.


Thanks for chiming in.

Well fuck, don't quit now, get some shit that is already pre-loomed and no worries at all about getting nicked.

Probably even find some in black for that stealthy look.

 

[AndyG]

Well fuck, don't quit now, get some shit that is already pre-loomed and no worries at all about getting nicked.

Probably even find some in black for that stealthy look.

View attachment 201294

No way. I'm running steel conduit. I'm on a roll.

Gonna use hard gas line for my windshield washer line next, and maybe cast iron for my differential breather lines.

In a similar vein, I had a neighbor I'm pretty sure used 2x4's for a roll cage.

You would go ape in the south Blaine ...it's crazy. I'm just a higher end redneck.

 

[mrblaine]

No way. I'm running steel conduit. I'm on a roll.

Gonna use hard gas line for my windshield washer line next, and maybe cast iron for my differential breather lines.

In a similar vein, I had a neighbor I'm pretty sure used 2x4's for a roll cage.

You would go ape in the south Blaine ...it's crazy. I'm just a higher end redneck.

I'm not the least bit bothered by how others do things. I have my ways, they have theirs. As long as they don't try to make me do it their way, we're good. Remember the #1 rule for doing things. It ain't stupid if it works.

 

[98TxTJ]

16/2 landscape wire is only rated for 13 amps and a max temp of 140 degrees F.

For reference, 150 degrees F is usually a temp you can touch, but not comfortably hold on to.

Automotive wire wire has max temp ratings of at least 175 degrees F with 250 degrees F common.

I'd be careful with the load I put on it and heat sources it might run near.

https://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=landscape-16-2

 

[AndyG]

I'm not the least bit bothered by how others do things. I have my ways, they have theirs. As long as they don't try to make me do it their way, we're good. Remember the #1 rule for doing things. It ain't stupid if it works.

That's true. I recently had a debate over a large curbless shower waterproofing set up using Schluter's Kerdi membrane .

One mindset wanted 32 linear feet of seam , no over lap and a factory warranty.

That's great, but I set it up with 7 feet of seam , overlap in the direction of fall, no cuts in any corners and sealed seams. Forget a warranty . .I'd rather not have a problem than have a warranty.

Do what works .

I guess it's a conversation for another thread, but it melts my brain when workers can't see there are multiple approaches, and the way you approach something can mean all the difference in how the execution of the task goes.

A lot of your posts explain how you approach something mechanically. Good stuff.

 

[AndyG]

16/2 landscape wire is only rated for 13 amps and a max temp of 140 degrees F.

For reference, 150 degrees F is usually a temp you can touch, but not comfortably hold on to.

Automotive wire wire has max temp ratings of at least 175 degrees F with 250 degrees F common.

I'd be careful with the load I put on it and heat sources it might run near.

https://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=landscape-16-2

That's good feed back. The led world helps with the loads for sure.

As far as temps, anything that kills it is going to likely kill regular wire.
But I certainly agree with the wisdom of respecting the ratings.

 

[mrblaine]

That's true. I recently had a debate over a large curbless shower waterproofing set up using Schluter's Kerdi membrane .

One mindset wanted 32 linear feet of seam , no over lap and a factory warranty.

That's great, but I set it up with 7 feet of seam , overlap in the direction of fall, no cuts in any corners and sealed seams. Forget a warranty . .I'd rather not have a problem than have a warranty.

Do what works .

I guess it's a conversation for another thread, but it melts my brain when workers can't see there are multiple approaches, and the way you approach something can mean all the difference in how the execution of the task goes.

A lot of your posts explain how you approach something mechanically. Good stuff.

I get to see lots of rigs wired up with 14-2, 16-2 SO cord or basic extension cord. Stranded, well insulated, tough, flexible, cheap. I laugh and call them names when they can't hear me but I do see a lot of it. Oddly, that is just about exactly what is used on a winch remote.

 

[AndyG]

I get to see lots of rigs wired up with 14-2, 16-2 SO cord or basic extension cord. Stranded, well insulated, tough, flexible, cheap. I laugh and call them names when they can't hear me but I do see a lot of it. Oddly, that is just about exactly what is used on a winch remote.

Honestly I don't know if what I did was a good move, it just seems like a practical alternative. Electrical is my weak point ...both with cars and in my profession as a contractor.

Of course , the entire vehicle is wired with regular wire pretty much.

Usually when I'm a pioneer I end up with arrows in my back.

My goal was a good shielded single wire,which was harder to find, and I wanted it tough outside the tub, even though it's tucked away.

 

[mrblaine]

Honestly I don't know if what I did was a good move, it just seems like a practical alternative. Electrical is my weak point ...both with cars and in my profession as a contractor.

Of course , the entire vehicle is wired with regular wire pretty much.

Usually when I'm a pioneer I end up with arrows in my back.

My goal was a good shielded single wire,which was harder to find, and I wanted it tough outside the tub, even though it's tucked away.

There is no such thing as regular wire. It is all spec'd out for insulation type and thickness and goes on from there to dozens upon dozens of types depending on application.

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Could always knob & tube the wiring...

 

[TrueTexas]

For automotive wiring that will be exposed to either vibration and/or heat, I would recommend a 100% pure copper GXL, SXL or TXL wire. The SXL jacket is the thickest, followed by GXL and then TXL. The jackets are extremely tough for all of these and resist rubbing thru better than most other types of wire and the way the insulation is bonded to the wire prevents corrosion.

Not sure what the wire you used is made from but I would stay away from copper clad aluminum in a vehicle.

 

[AndyG]

For automotive wiring that will be exposed to either vibration and/or heat, I would recommend a 100% pure copper GXL, SXL or TXL wire. The SXL jacket is the thickest, followed by GXL and then TXL. The jackets are extremely tough for all of these and resist rubbing thru better than most other types of wire and the way the insulation is bonded to the wire prevents corrosion.

Not sure what the wire you used is made from but I would stay away from copper clad aluminum in a vehicle.

The Landscape lighting wire I'm using is stranded copper with a thick sturdy rubber sheathing.

 

[Wingback73]

Somewhere along the line we might also consider that automotive grade wiring is rated to withstand oil, gas, and other fluids. Pretty sure, but not certain, that low voltage wiring does not carry that rating, but not certain by any means.

 

[AndyG]

Somewhere along the line we might also consider that automotive grade wiring is rated to withstand oil, gas, and other fluids. Pretty sure, but not certain, that low voltage wiring does not carry that rating, but not certain by any means.

That makes sense.

I totally don't know if what I did was smart ....it just had the qualites I wanted for this application.

 

[sierradmax]

Not the first time someone has pondered its use in the automotive world.
https://www.google.com/search?q=lan...i22i29i30l6.7414j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8