Stroker Upgrade
- Thread starter rexcsmith
- Start date
My stock PCM ran it just fine with the proper sized injectors. It's not ideal, but it's fine. The trick is the PCM doesn't know it has larger injectors in open loop (WOT) so it opens them them for the normal preprogrammed duration. Since they are bigger injectors though, you get more fuel. 24lb/hr injectors are just about right for a stroker, and n/a is very forgiving so it doesn't need to be super close. In closed loop (part throttle), the engine "sees" the extra fuel via the O2 sensor and dials it back. That's a gross oversimplification, but that's about it. Not ideal, but perfectly functional.
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Word. I didn't want to be too pushy with the turbo idea...best to see if the girl is interested before you try for 3rd base.
Word. I didn't want to be too pushy with the turbo idea...best to see if the girl is interested before you try for 3rd base.
Most don't know it's available.
Did you have issues passing CA smog after installing the stroker and other items you mentioned?
None what so ever! But in Ca. on a visual inspection, they will not pass with a cold air intake! You have to put your stock box back on! A header as long as it is stamped or a sticker stating it's C.A.R.B. compliant, your fine! Which in turn, they cant really see it very well on a visual! lol
Don't bolt parts on the outside without a carb number and you'll be fine
As long as the intake, or any other emissions-related part, has a C.A.R.B. EO # sticker, they are legal.
Another annoyance is that I've seen conflicting info on if Oregon is a CARB state or not. And, even if they are, it seems that some CARB states don't enforce things as strictly as CA does (while other states do)...this based on feedback from folks living in those states.
I'd want to know the rules in your jurisdiction before getting a turbo since the current offerings are not CARB compliant. I should have mentioned that earlier.
From what I've read, a stroker engine will likely go unnoticed as long as you don't advertise it (e.g., no "4.6L Stroker" valve cover).
I'd want to know the rules in your jurisdiction before getting a turbo since the current offerings are not CARB compliant. I should have mentioned that earlier.
From what I've read, a stroker engine will likely go unnoticed as long as you don't advertise it (e.g., no "4.6L Stroker" valve cover).
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If you really want to be confused it varies county by county. Even in CA. I only need to smog once apon registering a vehicle for the first time.
There are even rumblings of having cars up to 1999 or so be smog exempt at some point here.
I keep my rigs easy to return to smog legal so they have resale value
That's a good point. I remember there being multiple counties in CA that didn't require smog (one of those areas was a bit southwest of Tahoe but that's about all I can recall without looking into it again).
Here in AZ, Kingman doesn't require smog testing. I'd imagine there are other rural areas as well that don't test.
My goal was to have a build that would be fine regardless of where I lived...and that would be ok even if all states went to CARB.
Ricky if I change my registration address to yours will you kindly forward my renewal when it arrives?
I've got to smog my Jeep every 2 years down here in socal.Ricky if I change my registration address to yours will you kindly forward my renewal when it arrives?
Golen does say this indeed and I have been running mine with the original 1997 ECU and stock tune since I did the swap 4 years ago. I spoke with @Flyin' Ryan Performance and a tuner local to me who both said similar things. Specifically, they both said they didn’t expect much change at WOT but did feel like there were gains to be had in the area under the curve. So your absolute Dyno numbers might not change much but drivability could improve significantly.
Did you dyno yours? Did you get any seat time pre-and post tune to compare? Chad was easy to work with and willing to answer questions. He seemed a little less happy with me when I called him back to probe why there was such a difference between the engine stand dyno numbers and more real world chassis dyno results. Taking into account drivetrain losses, which I can estimate pretty well because I ran the stock motor on the same dyno pre-swap, I’m down about 30-40 HP vs expected based on the engine stand dyno result with my actual motor. Chad did say that on the stand, there are no accessories, open exhaust and a stand alone EFI with about 36 degrees of spark advance (I believe 26 or 27 is close to max in the vehicle under load).
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S&j is supposed to have a good reputation, price is ok too
https://www.sandjengines.com/searchproducts/enginesearch/288
Before I repaired the random issues on my high mileage engine, I looked into S&J's 4.0L and stroker option (4.7L iirc) that was about $1,000 more. I believe their stroker option runs on 87 octane (not sure if there is enough power gains to be worth it).
I would get an S&J 4.0L build if I was purchasing on the internet (they had no issues with me having a turbo).
One of their issues when I called was getting a core on hand for a customer's specific year....worst case, they said they could rebuild/reman my current engine.
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