Savvy sliders with Poison Spyder corners

[Michael Alzen]

I just ordered savvy sliders to replace the previous owners smitty builts (I think). Does anyone know if the savvy sliders will fit with poison spyder crusher corners? I'm thinking they probably won't and am already leaning towards ordering the savvy corners as well, but figured I'd see if anyone knows for sure.

2nd question: If I do replace the corner armor I'm debating between painting to color match, painting it black, or leaving it raw. Has anyone painted and regretted it later? So far I don't bang my armor on rocks/trees very often so I'm not super worried about chipping. I tend to prefer painted over raw for looks, but I definitely like the simplicity of leaving it raw and not having paint to worry about.

Here's a picture with previous sliders removed:

 

[strumble8]

i don’t know, but you can just trim the corners to fit around the new savvy sliders

 

[Lou]

The savvy slider is going to want to go all the way to the wheel well opening. You are going to have to trim the slider since your flare looks like its welded to the corner.

 

[IPerkWVU]

Yep, looks like you could loosen up those armor bolts, mock up the savvy slider, mark, trim and reinstall keeping your rear fenders

 

[suicideking]

As mentioned above, you can trim to fit. I was running this combo at one point. Later installed the Savvy aluminum corners.

This pic is with the Savvy rails and PS steel corners (with rear flares included with the corners).

 

[jjvw]

Definitely trim the corners to fit the sliders.

 

[Michael Alzen]

Perfect, thanks all!

 

[Michael Alzen]

As mentioned above, you can trim to fit. I was running this combo at one point. Later installed the Savvy aluminum corners.

This pic is with the Savvy rails and PS steel corners (with rear flares included with the corners).

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Do you mind if I ask why you replaced the PS with Savvy corners? I'm leaning toward just selling the PS corners and ordering Savvy, and if that's what I'll end up wanting down the road then I'd rather avoid cutting up the PS and just do it all at once now.

I've got max-bilt round tail lights, any expected issues running those with Savvy corners?

 

[suicideking]

The PS are steel and I wanted aluminum. PS doesn't make aluminum flares anymore because they don't know how to do it right. Their aluminum flares were cracking. Instead of fixing them, they discontinued them.

It was a large part of getting rid of the crappy PS parts from my Jeep. I won't buy their parts anymore. I have the Savvy aluminum corners and Genright flares now.

 

[Michael Alzen]

The PS are steel and I wanted aluminum. PS doesn't make aluminum flares anymore because they don't know how to do it right. Their aluminum flares were cracking. Instead of fixing them, they discontinued them.

It was a large part of getting rid of the crappy PS parts from my Jeep. I won't buy their parts anymore. I have the Savvy aluminum corners and Genright flares now.

Any issues I should plan for when replacing the PS corners with Savvy? Overlapping mount holes cause any problems?

I've been slowly transitioning over to aluminum as well so I think I'll just do it all at once.

 

[suicideking]

Any issues I should plan for when replacing the PS corners with Savvy? Overlapping mount holes cause any problems?

I've been slowly transitioning over to aluminum as well so I think I'll just do it all at once.

I had it installed by a pro, so didn't deal with it. No issues that I know of. Here's how it looks now.

 

[mrblaine]

i don’t know, but you can just trim the corners to fit around the new savvy sliders

That would suck, a lot.

 

[mrblaine]

Yep, looks like you could loosen up those armor bolts, mock up the savvy slider, mark, trim and reinstall keeping your rear fenders

There's dumber ways to do it but not by much.

 

[mrblaine]

Any issues I should plan for when replacing the PS corners with Savvy? Overlapping mount holes cause any problems?

I've been slowly transitioning over to aluminum as well so I think I'll just do it all at once.

Any overlap holes are easily drilled to stay exactly where they need to be using a Rotabroach in 3/8".